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Howsitgoineh

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Hey fellas, so just wanted to start a quick conversation about climbing srt.

I currently climb split tail Ddrt doing prunes and removals daily.

I have set up for our other climbers for srt with canopy anchors and basal anchors. So I do have a good Idea how climbing srt works.
What I think I'd like about it, is the fact you don't have to isolate the climbing line to enter the tree.

I believe I would like to use SRT to enter the canopy, then switch my setup to ddrt for positioning. Would this be a more efficient way to work?

Secondly, I'd like to keep my setup simple as possible. I believe all I need is a rope wrench, would that be correct?

Any suggestions welcome
 
While I would suggest that you keep working on doing the SRT, I discovered a reliable way of setting my Ddrt rig without wasting time isolating a line up the tree.
Easy to do, too! Just set a life-support rated pulley, friction saver, or similar device on the end of a good rope. Use it like a basal anchored Srt setup to raise your doubled line to the height you wish to start from.

It is amazing how much easier it is to ascend and descend on a doubled rope that has a pulley at the top. I can practically hand over hand up the rope without anything but one hand ascender to hold my position while I pull up the tail on my Valdetain prussic. I think this is a better option for guys that are getting kinda old and weak, like myself. I tried ascending a few times on SRT, but it was comical to watch. I didn't have all the right toys, either, but I decided it wasn't for me.
 
I'm in the srt to get up and drt for working camp. Maybe if I bought a mechanical device I could work with srt. The HH2 I got just isn't comfortable for me, I've tried different cords and prussics. I was told that mechanical devices weren't for srt newbies, I think the HH2 is more dangerous. I'm just more comfortable using drt and the pulley on a sling is the best thing ever.
 
While I would suggest that you keep working on doing the SRT, I discovered a reliable way of setting my Ddrt rig without wasting time isolating a line up the tree.
Easy to do, too! Just set a life-support rated pulley, friction saver, or similar device on the end of a good rope. Use it like a basal anchored Srt setup to raise your doubled line to the height you wish to start from.

It is amazing how much easier it is to ascend and descend on a doubled rope that has a pulley at the top. I can practically hand over hand up the rope without anything but one hand ascender to hold my position while I pull up the tail on my Valdetain prussic. I think this is a better option for guys that are getting kinda old and weak, like myself. I tried ascending a few times on SRT, but it was comical to watch. I didn't have all the right toys, either, but I decided it wasn't for me.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try this out when I have some extra time.. I never thought about how I could raise a doubled line up into the canopy. That sounds a whole lot better than trying to isolate a line.. when it comes to very crowded or branchy trees I usually end up using the alternate lanyard technique all the way up to my working position when not in spurs. It works, but it is a lengthy climb
 
You can use all the same SRT toys on a doubled line, with less force required, but more than twice the number of steps. Too much setback for most folks, I understand. That's good for testing your skills with any new SRT equipment while having your line rigged with the style you have experience at.
 
Hey fellas, so just wanted to start a quick conversation about climbing srt.

I currently climb split tail Ddrt doing prunes and removals daily.

I have set up for our other climbers for srt with canopy anchors and basal anchors. So I do have a good Idea how climbing srt works.
What I think I'd like about it, is the fact you don't have to isolate the climbing line to enter the tree.

I believe I would like to use SRT to enter the canopy, then switch my setup to ddrt for positioning. Would this be a more efficient way to work?

Secondly, I'd like to keep my setup simple as possible. I believe all I need is a rope wrench, would that be correct?

Any suggestions welcome
I’ve been using SRT to gain access to trees then switching to double rope for 15 years.
I use the yo yo system to SRT. Slow and not vary glamorous, but doesn’t use a lot of energy. I feel way more comfortable moving about the tree on a double rope system .
Im sure this has added years to my career on ware and tare to my body.
Many times you can shoot a line to some hard to reach area and just go straight up60 ft with ease using SRT. Saving a lot of time and energy.
Moving a Single line or doing a redirect is a pain, switching to double rope tech you have a lot more mobility one up there.
 
While I would suggest that you keep working on doing the SRT, I discovered a reliable way of setting my Ddrt rig without wasting time isolating a line up the tree.
Easy to do, too! Just set a life-support rated pulley, friction saver, or similar device on the end of a good rope. Use it like a basal anchored Srt setup to raise your doubled line to the height you wish to start from.

It is amazing how much easier it is to ascend and descend on a doubled rope that has a pulley at the top. I can practically hand over hand up the rope without anything but one hand ascender to hold my position while I pull up the tail on my Valdetain prussic. I think this is a better option for guys that are getting kinda old and weak, like myself. I tried ascending a few times on SRT, but it was comical to watch. I didn't have all the right toys, either, but I decided it wasn't for me.
I've done this too- but I wonder if the lack of friction translates to increased weight you're holding on the rope, as opposed to the old fashioned 2 ring friction saver or natural crotch anchor point. I reckon it blows out prussics quicker, also not sure if it increases wear on elbows and shoulders? Climbed ddrt for 20 years, had to force myself to get with the rope wrench and unicender but love the srt now, given me years more climbing as long as the knees can handle it!
 
Less force on the prussic, of course. The friction over a branch reduces the load against the prussic. There is considerably less load on your arms and shoulders, however, since you aren't dragging yourself up the tree with a friction load in the middle of your 2:1 mechanical advantage.

I use a VT on an 8mm prussic, and never had any wear or holding problems.
 
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