Newbie Jonsered 2095 Rebuild or not?

[Ramair08]

Hello Everyone,
Long time follower, first time poster. I need a saw of my own, I have been using dads for past few years cutting wood for my furnace. Anyway, I was out at the farm yesterday and found his old 2095 that has been sitting in the shed for about 8 years I asked about it and he said it has a scored piston, he wasn't sure about anything else wrong with it. I pulled it over and the engine isn't stuck and it is mostly complete, it is missing the muffler and air filter cover which can be found on ebay. I am fairly mechanically inclined and like to work on projects but haven't had much experience with 2-strokes. If it is just a scored piston (depending on how bad the cylinder is) it should be pretty straight forward, correct? My question is: how can I determine if the oiler, crankshaft, bearings, clutch and other misc. parts are still good? I don't believe the saw had that many hours on it before it got scored. I would like to get it going again but I don't want to have a basket case once I start throwing parts at it. And yes, I will try to open it up and snap some pictures after work tonight. Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

[ckelp]

welcome to the club:cool2:

first thing i'd do is try to find why how the piston got scored.. i know this sounds dumb but it's very useful and it will save the new parts your throwing at it..

good luck with it, keep us posted:msp_thumbup:

without seeing it i'd give a tentative go for it...

 

[fastLeo151]

Can visually inspect the ends of the crank, and push pull all directions to check for play in the bearings,. Or you can sell it to me and I can check it out. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[bryanr2]

Look up the thread Mastermind meets the Johnsered 2095. It is a build thread of my saw with videos. Give you something to look forward to.:msp_smile: The saw is wicked strong. I cant justify even owning it.

 

[SawTroll]

welcome to the club:cool2:

first thing i'd do is try to find why how the piston got scored.. i know this sounds dumb but it's very useful and it will save the new parts your throwing at it..

good luck with it, keep us posted:msp_thumbup:

without seeing it i'd give a tentative go for it...

Yes, first thing is to find the reason that the engine failed - as it doesn't just happen by itself!

 

[Ramair08]

As bad as this sounds, if I remember correctly he had sold some round bales of hay to a guy that couldn't handle them so he took the saw and 36'' bar over and cut them for him, I think the saw just cooked itself.

 

[Ramair08]

Look up the thread Mastermind meets the Johnsered 2095. It is a build thread of my saw with videos. Give you something to look forward to.:msp_smile: The saw is wicked strong. I cant justify even owning it.

Thanks for that link! It will help alot!

 

[cbfarmall]

As bad as this sounds, if I remember correctly he had sold some round bales of hay to a guy that couldn't handle them so he took the saw and 36'' bar over and cut them for him, I think the saw just cooked itself.

Sounds like a farmer alright!

Chris B.

 

[blsnelling]

As bad as this sounds, if I remember correctly he had sold some round bales of hay to a guy that couldn't handle them so he took the saw and 36'' bar over and cut them for him, I think the saw just cooked itself.

Saws don't just burn themselves up. There is always a cause for a saw to over heat, be it tuned too lean, an air leak, forcing an exceptionally dull chain, etc. What the guys are suggesting is that you vac/pressure test the saw before you tear it down. Inspect all rubber parts and clean and put a kit in the carb.

 

[Cantdog]

Yes Ramair...... a complete 2095 is worth rebuilding. The more expensive the saw to begin with, the more attractive the cost of the rebuild becomes. To buy a $300 P&C makes much more sense on $1,000 saw than a $500 saw. But what everyone is saying to you is that there is/was a reason that the saw failed and you NEED to find what that is or you are extreamly likely to burn a brand new top end right off it again. Cuttin hay didn't do it...the 95 series was designed right from the factory for saw milling duty....you aren't going to phase one by cutting a hay bale. (as long as it was tuned properly) These guys can walk you through this and make sure you have a sucessful rebuild....but you have to be ready to listen and learn....we can help... but really suck at arguing..especially amongst ourselves...LOL!!!!!

 

[bryanr2]

yes, it is no secret that a 2095 was designed for a mill. but it's usability and worth exceed most what any of us need in a saw. Milling is hard on a saw, the 2095 is designed to do that (and does it well) but it certainly is not just a milling saw. The one I have is a wood eating monster. I have a 32'' windsor on it and it is a light saber. Bigger the wood, the faster it seems in the cut(as odd as that seems) Very under rated saw. If your needs justify having it- I would certainly look into getting it going. You can get a good idea checking it out b4 you drop a bunch of coin. If the saw is avail to you at little to no cost, then it's a no brainer. Read the thread I suggested. Between purchase, rebuild/parts, and porting I put almost a $1000 in mine. I wound up with a like new/ fresh rebuilt saw that I view as unique. Similar to the 394/395s in use, the 2094/95 is a viable contender for big wood.

 

[Ramair08]

Here are the pictures of the saw, it was already taken apart and set back together (nothing tightened) by a mechanic when it scored the piston years ago. it is missing two cylinder bolts, the muffler, and a couple other screws where the intake attaches to the frame. Does anyone have a parts breakdown that lists what the parts are? I found one online but the numbers don't mean much. I would have liked to do the pressure/vacuum tests but the vacuum pump is back ordered from Harbor Freight and I just lifted the saw apart. If you would like additional pictures let me know. The cylinder has some buildup but I didn't feel any cuts or groves at all. Please let me know what you guys think.

 

[bryanr2]

Here are the pictures of the saw, it was already taken apart and set back together (nothing tightened) by a mechanic when it scored the piston years ago. it is missing two cylinder bolts, the muffler, and a couple other screws where the intake attaches to the frame. Does anyone have a parts breakdown that lists what the parts are? I found one online but the numbers don't mean much. I would have liked to do the pressure/vacuum tests but the vacuum pump is back ordered from Harbor Freight and I just lifted the saw apart. If you would like additional pictures let me know. The cylinder has some buildup but I didn't feel any cuts or groves at all. Please let me know what you guys think.

That saw was rode hard and put up wet and dirty.

I would pm Spike60 once you get your parts list together. He was an instrumental resource for parts during my rebuild.

 

[Ramair08]

Well, the saw is cleaning up nicely. The crank feels tight with no play. I tried putting the acid in the cylinder but it doesn't seem to take much off, so the next step is put it in the lathe and shave the buildup off unless someone has a better idea. I have a lead on a new cylinder so I don't have much to lose by trying to clean this one up. What is the best way to split the case apart for cleaning? It looks like taking the PTO side off would be easier than pulling the flywheel? Thanks in advance.

 

[Aaron441]

Don't put it in a lathe. You will take too much off and be into the chrome and then it will be junk. It takes a lot of time and patience to clean a cylinder with acid. Put some on a cutip and wipe it on the bad spots. Then let it sit. After a while the aluminum will start to bubble off. Wipe it off and repeat.
I would not go to the trouble of splitting the cases just to clean it. Pour some gas or something in there and slosh it around, then blow it out with compressed air. A bucket of hot water with Purple cleaner or something like that will do a lot also.

 

[hacknstack]

I would strongly recommend against a lathe - most don't run true enough to accomplish what you're trying to do, without ruining your cylinder. If the muriatic acid still leaves buildup you might try a light hone, depending on the condition of the cylinder. Give the acid time to work, as mentioned above.

 

[hacknstack]

Correction - after I thought about it, a hone with aluminum still in the cylinder would just clog up the stones. Your best shot is to keep at it with the acid - I've done it, and it takes patience.