I need something lighter than a 026, preferably adjustable 3 screw carb/(pro?) that has less vibration yet won't stick in Oak.
Long winded background:
I got my first saw (90s Stihl 026 with 16" solid bar) last June and managed to cut over 12 cord of Maple, Oak, and Ash last year. This year in Jan with temperatures around -10C I was able to cut some maple before the saw started slowing down in wood.
I was using 89 grade gas, with 50:1 oil and 50:1 seafoam.
I put in a newly sharpened chain (professionally done, I sharpen with file after every day's work a few times before having a professional set the rakers right) it was still getting stuck.
I tried to figure out the issue and realized the small hose from carb to crank was leaky and was flooding/running too rich.
I replaced the small hose, re-set the coil, cleaned plug/carb diaphragm.
This time I put in 91 octane gas with 50:1 oil and no seafoam. I am having a hard time tuning it now and it gets stuck even in a long dead hemlock log with temperature around +15C
The saw originally had a flocked filter, that I replaced with wire-mesh and presently use a combo with wire-mesh outside and flocked saw-side, this has worked great with the muffler mod I did (Its loud, but it cuts better)
Here are my questions regarding this saw:
- Do saws start losing power after a while?
- I have used seafoam on my cars/mower/tractor with good results, the chainsaw was a massive improvement initially, no idea as to why it is losing power now?
- I tried my neighbor's professionally tuned unmodded 440 and it literally stopped in 14" of red oak (he is a woodsman and is proud of his saw) Can you push a saw too hard into wood that it stalls, I never experienced that before even in 24" Ash, am I doing something wrong?
- I had a hard time getting the hose even after having the IPL beforehand the Walbro carb says 037 and the dealers could not find the part in their system. If I cant get the right parts for it on time, I am leery of using it as my primary saw, maybe its done its time?
- The dealer was trying to sell the 211 Duro as a much improved saw that had no problems of the recent models, made me wonder if Stihl was a has-been?
I plan to use the saw to cut downed/dead trees for firewood for my home, I want the saw to run for the few hours when I use it on a weekend without elaborate start cycles, the 026 requires 5 pulls on choke and starts on sixth, repeat again to actually work. Is that normal Stihl 026 operation?
I saw some videos of Dolmar PS 420 and it looks impressive, the specs with steel springs and magnesium case sound promising as compared to the Stihl plastic, will a 420 be able to handle 24" plus trees with a 16" bar, or do I look at a 5500?
I wasn't able to figure out a comparable Husqvarna, maybe 357?
In conclusion, I need to know:
- Does it make sense to maintain the 026 with its eccentricities?
- Is Dolmar PS 420 a less expensive but reliable alternative?
- Should I be looking at something else?
Thanks again for your time and patience reading this
Long winded background:
I got my first saw (90s Stihl 026 with 16" solid bar) last June and managed to cut over 12 cord of Maple, Oak, and Ash last year. This year in Jan with temperatures around -10C I was able to cut some maple before the saw started slowing down in wood.
I was using 89 grade gas, with 50:1 oil and 50:1 seafoam.
I put in a newly sharpened chain (professionally done, I sharpen with file after every day's work a few times before having a professional set the rakers right) it was still getting stuck.
I tried to figure out the issue and realized the small hose from carb to crank was leaky and was flooding/running too rich.
I replaced the small hose, re-set the coil, cleaned plug/carb diaphragm.
This time I put in 91 octane gas with 50:1 oil and no seafoam. I am having a hard time tuning it now and it gets stuck even in a long dead hemlock log with temperature around +15C
The saw originally had a flocked filter, that I replaced with wire-mesh and presently use a combo with wire-mesh outside and flocked saw-side, this has worked great with the muffler mod I did (Its loud, but it cuts better)
Here are my questions regarding this saw:
- Do saws start losing power after a while?
- I have used seafoam on my cars/mower/tractor with good results, the chainsaw was a massive improvement initially, no idea as to why it is losing power now?
- I tried my neighbor's professionally tuned unmodded 440 and it literally stopped in 14" of red oak (he is a woodsman and is proud of his saw) Can you push a saw too hard into wood that it stalls, I never experienced that before even in 24" Ash, am I doing something wrong?
- I had a hard time getting the hose even after having the IPL beforehand the Walbro carb says 037 and the dealers could not find the part in their system. If I cant get the right parts for it on time, I am leery of using it as my primary saw, maybe its done its time?
- The dealer was trying to sell the 211 Duro as a much improved saw that had no problems of the recent models, made me wonder if Stihl was a has-been?
I plan to use the saw to cut downed/dead trees for firewood for my home, I want the saw to run for the few hours when I use it on a weekend without elaborate start cycles, the 026 requires 5 pulls on choke and starts on sixth, repeat again to actually work. Is that normal Stihl 026 operation?
I saw some videos of Dolmar PS 420 and it looks impressive, the specs with steel springs and magnesium case sound promising as compared to the Stihl plastic, will a 420 be able to handle 24" plus trees with a 16" bar, or do I look at a 5500?
I wasn't able to figure out a comparable Husqvarna, maybe 357?
In conclusion, I need to know:
- Does it make sense to maintain the 026 with its eccentricities?
- Is Dolmar PS 420 a less expensive but reliable alternative?
- Should I be looking at something else?
Thanks again for your time and patience reading this