Nik's Poulan Thread

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machinisttx said:
It's a fine penetrant. Better than kroil, actually, and a lot cheaper.
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No, no its not, if it was they would put it in a can labeled for freeing up rusted parts. ATF is made for automobile transmissions.

I understand cheap though, but do you really want to cheap out on freeing up a rare and valuable Poulan 44??

Another guy here screwed up a hard to find cyl a while back using ATF.......
 
machinisttx said:
How was it damaged, and how is the damage directly attributable to the use of ATF?

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/files/ENGR103-WD40Alternative-FinReport.pdf

Penetrating oil test
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Did you actually read that? :hmm3grin2orange:

Here is what it said, copy and pasted.

Transmission oil in this design acts as a lubricator while acetone is the rust remover

The fourth and final test for corrosion removal was the ATF liquid. As the bolt was placed into the cup containing the ATF, bubbles began to rise as the pockets of air were filled with the liquid. As with the vegetable oil, no immediate effect of corrosion removal was noticed.
:msp_rolleyes:

Now quit being cheap and get something that's actually made to remove corrosion before you screw it up beyond repair.
 
You didn't answer the question. Not trying to be obstinate, but I know it works and I don't see how it could damage anything. Yes, I read it. I also read this part:

Pentrating oil / Average load / Price perfluid ounce
None / 516 pounds /
WD-40 / 238 pounds / $0.25
PB Blaster / 214 pounds / $0.35
Liquid Wrench / 127 pounds / $0.21
Kano Kroil / 106 pounds / $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix / 53 pounds / $0.10

By the time I get back to it tomorrow, some of that ATF will have seeped down to lube the bottom end. I used the same trick on an 026 that had a piston stuck in the jug. The jug isn't damaged, and I'm having a hard time seeing how it would be. If I had some wintergreen oil, #1 diesel, or kerosene, I'd use one of them instead.

The best commercial product I've ever used was named "Free" and came in a grey aerosol can. Haven't had any of it in a long time.
 
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Stopped by a friends today to do a good deed. He has a 245 that his FIL gave him. He put a carb kit in it and cleaned it up, but was having trouble with it. I checked it out, was getting raw gas spitting out the muff. Took the carb apart to see that he had put the diaphragm/lever, metering valve in right, it was good. He had replaced the little Hubbard plugs, and did not seat them, they were letting fuel flood everything. Seated both plugs reassembled and fired right up. Put the 24" roller nose bar and poulan branded chain on it, to fine time the carb-vroom vroom! A nice saw! I really like these older saws!!:rock:
 
fossil said:
Funny, it shows up on mine. Doesn't matter anyway as the add disappeared about 1/2 hr after I posted it.

Here's the pic. If it is a 306 it looked like one in nice shape

View attachment 298192
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Tim that's a VERY nice looking Craftsman 3.6-20 branded Poulan 306A. A desirable Poulan (of course I'm partial to the Craftsman red Poulans).:D

They are good robust, strong running saws. My late production 306A runs/cuts about the same as my healthiest/strongest SXL-AO.
 
Stephen C. said:
I don't think the choice of chemicals is a factor, but the application of force to break the bonds is not a good thing. I have a 4 cylinder motor that somebody removed the spark plugs from god only knows how many years ago. It is resistant to pb blaster......what is the best stuff?:confused: looks like acetone/atf is the next logical choice....
Click to expand...

Have you tried a window weight?
 
Agree with Aaron.306A is very light,powerfull,bulletproof.You can cut with them all day.We don't have many of the older Poulans in Greece.I take my 306A sometimes with me when i go cutting and when i say to my friends that this is a 1970 saw,they don't believe me.I think that this is a "must have saw" for everyone.
 
Kostas said:
Agree with Aaron.306A is very light,powerfull,bulletproof.You can cut with them all day.We don't have many of the older Poulans in Greece.I take my 306A sometimes with me when i go cutting and when i say to my friends that this is a 1970 saw,they don't believe me.I think that this is a "must have saw" for everyone.
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The only one around me I've seen come up for sale. I was surprised it moved so fast on a Saturday night.
 
Stephen C. said:
I don't think the choice of chemicals is a factor, but the application of force to break the bonds is not a good thing. I have a 4 cylinder motor that somebody removed the spark plugs from god only knows how many years ago. It is resistant to pb blaster......what is the best stuff?:confused: looks like acetone/atf is the next logical choice....
Click to expand...

I think the same way. I don't want to force it to break loose, and I don't want to spin it over on bearings that haven't seen lube in who knows how long. For all I know right now, the bottom end bearings may be rusted solid and the piston is actually free in the cylinder. I have plenty of time to let it sit and allow whatever combination of chemicals work at breaking down corrosion.
 
Modifiedmark said:
No problem with that fitting but a heat gun wont hurt any I guess.

The right sized thin wall deep 1/4 drive socket helps on that fitting or a 5/16" Craftsman ign wrench.
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took the handle off. couldn't finad a socket thin-walled enough to fit so dug out my ignition wrench set. voila' came off so easy i wondered why. this is one time its good to be an OF with old tools. that 5/16 wrench with the, how shall we describe it, end oriented 90-degrees to the handle was just right. course, you already knew that. thanks for the tips. didn't even need heat or kroil. secondarily, taking the handle off gives me a good opportunity to thoroughly clean the cooling fins, etc. thanks mark.
 
JeremiahJohnson said:
For you hard core poulan collectors. :msp_wink:

View attachment 298272View attachment 298273
Click to expand...

I drove to the twin cities to pick mine up when I won it on ebay. Mine is still mounted to the original axle with original ram, pump and everything unlike the one in your photo. I did mount it to a trailer though so I didn't have to bend over so much. It has split around 500 truck loads of wood since I've purchased it and still functions very well. I also have the original owners manual to it.:msp_wink:
 
fossil said:
Thanks Mark. After I posted I did and actually had that thread sitting in my favourites list. How did that metric seal that was a bit tight work out for you?
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I don't know, I actually have never had to use it yet. I have no doubt they will work just fine, there just a hair snug on the crankshaft. Just make damn sure to use a seal protector of some sort over that step on the crankshaft.

I may have to use the metric seal sometime soon as my NOS stock is getting smaller. I had to use one on the Super72 yesterday as the FW side on some of the sandcast saws use the same seal as the 306 PTO side.
 
fossil said:
The only one around me I've seen come up for sale. I was surprised it moved so fast on a Saturday night.
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To be honest Tim,i was sure that this saw will go very quick because of its excelent shape.I am sure that another one will come up very soon,just be patient.
 

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