Nik's Poulan Thread

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How did you isolate/close off the primer/purge bulb ?Could be a problem if not absolutely sealed.

When I ditched the bubble, I used a new carb
Before ever mounting it or putting any oil & fuel in it.
I sat down and cleaned the brass purge line fitting so as to not have any tarnish, skin oils or
manufacturing lubes coatings, etc on the tube.
I did the pre-clean so as not to have any contaminates left inside of the tube
or trapped in crevices made by crimping
because it's difficult to reliably clean them out after the crimp.

An ink eraser is mildly abrasive and handy for burnishing the metal after degreasing
and will improve the flow and adhesion of anything used to seal the the fitting.

Then I double checked that I had the correct fitting and made the crimp/pinch.

That done, I gave it a quick cleaning again and then brushed on some flux,
making sure to get it inside the cut end of the fitting and outside.
( make sure the flux is correct type for the type of solder you have )

Then I grabbed the big Weller soldering gun and put some BTU's into the fitting first
and then fed a bit of solder till I liked the flow and plugged look of the fitting.

A bit of fuel line with a plug in it, slipped over the fitting would do the job too.
I just wanted to not have to be concerned with the hose aging issues or slipping off, etc.

After removing the choke plate from the carb, I also soldered that hole in the choke plate
using the same fussy cleaning routine.
Note that if you have a plastic shaft, you absolutely have to remove the plate from it
to solder or you'll melt the shaft and ruin it.

Check post #9 for a couple pics of my efforts.
http://www.arboristsite.com/hand-held-equipment-tools/241144.htm#post4449561

-
Of course by the time I peck all of that out, you'll likely have already gotten a better answer.

Took the bulb completely out (it was cracked anyway). Just have 2 lines directly to the carb....
 
had similar symptoms on old predator inbound clutch the spring had broke. not sure if yours is inbound clutch though if it is its a simple check

The saw will start, and run for about 10 seconds, and then seems to run out of gas. Here's what's been done so far....

1) New fuel lines, filter, and rebuild carb.............same result
2) Adjusted the needle valve lever up higher, and turned the adj screws out until they almost fell out.............same result but maybe a bit better
3) Replaced the manifold to cylinder gasket, and carb base gasket..........same
4) Reset the lever at the proper height, and tried the carb on another saw.......runs fine!
5) Swapped carb from other saw onto the 210..............still runs out of gas
6) Swapped out the gas cap..........same
7) Removed muffler........same
8) Removed bar and chain.......same

Anyone have any ideas?:dizzy:
 
Took the bulb completely out (it was cracked anyway). Just have 2 lines directly to the carb....

Just for giggles, Cut about inch & half of fuel line to fit the purge fitting on the carb.
then plug the line with a BB, golf Tee or something that fits tight.

Make sure the choke is causing fuel to be drawn at cranking speed
and see if it makes a difference with the purge port plugged tight.

I could be wrong (a bit tired and pain meds for the knees today)
but the hose isn't that big of a deal to try.
 
Just when I thought I had seen all the 70's and 80's Poulan rebrands I find this one on Ebay which was apparently made for the Ridgid Tool Company. I have a big pipe wrench from that firm. I don't see what they were trying to accomplish with a rebranded chainsaw but a neat piece of ephemera just the same.

View attachment 307845
View attachment 307846

They had good taste in saws when they picked that line.
 
Took the bulb completely out (it was cracked anyway). Just have 2 lines directly to the carb....

These days i pissed of with a similar saw,a Poulan 2250.I replaced everything including carb,gaskets,filters(fuel and air) plug,except the p/c which are 1 year old.Anyway,the saw didn't want to run properly.It was really hard to adjust and once it was hot,it restarted only with throttle.I finally found that the reason is the low compression.The p/c as i said are only one year old with probably no more than 20 tanks through them and the compresion is at about 110 maybe a little less when hot.I am looking for a p/c now.If someone have one just let me know.

Anyway,to your saw.Does your saw have good compresion?As for the line i think you have connected wrong the second line directly from the carb to tank.It is better to just block the returning line.
 
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It might have been just that. The others looked odd as well. There was only one 5200 cyl in that one lot. The others appeared to be 4200's.

Yep.............and in the pistons lot that also sold recently the "4200/5200" labeled pistons all had the 4200 piston part number. I couldn't make sense of most of the other piston part #'s in that lot. Hopefully whoever bought those gets what they thought they were getting.
 
Pp215

I've never seen one of these come up for sale before. Listed as 42cc but Acres' site says it's 34.4. Is this based on one of the top handle models?
The seller wants $150 which is sure high and It's 1000 miles away anyhow.
attachment.php


Edit. Found it. P Partner 360
 
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Which model ??

Picked this up for cheap today, mostly for the bar, chain, air filter, bar cover and misc parts for my 285.

There is nothing on this saw to tell me which model it is. The piston is scored. The bore is close to 44mm, maybe a bit more.
Can anyone hazard a guess?
I appears to very complete and in good shape under all that grime except for the piston / cylinder issue and a burned through top cover.

IMG_0376_zps11566d30.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

 
I've got one of those... IIRC, mine turned out to be a 3100. I've got the final assumption on it's Poulan series number buried somewhere in this thread. Name of the pic being 3.0 is only an assumption since Poulan liked to cram anything from a tiny screaming 35cc all the way to a snorting 60+cc engine in the same case style.

attachment.php
 
Picked this up for cheap today, mostly for the bar, chain, air filter, bar cover and misc parts for my 285.

There is nothing on this saw to tell me which model it is. The piston is scored. The bore is close to 44mm, maybe a bit more.
Can anyone hazard a guess?
I appears to very complete and in good shape under all that grime except for the piston / cylinder issue and a burned through top cover.

IMG_0376_zps11566d30.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


My gray 2.8 is about 42mm and roomies crunched 3.3 is about 46mm so I'm gonna say you probably have a 3.0/3000 - unless you order the "correct" (ha) P/C from Sears Parts Central since they currently show the 2.8/2800 IPL for all the 2.8/3.0/3.3 series... (thanks a lot K-Mart for ruining Sears...)
 
Picked this one up today original bar runs great. Oiler leaks abit is that common on these? This one has the case too.View attachment 308300View attachment 308301View attachment 308303

I have not noticed the oiler leaking a lot on that series of Poulan saws, but I have a habit of draining mine when sitting. Also looks like the compression your getting is about normal for the Poulan 3400 which is what looks like you have there. Nice saw by the way I think you will like it.
 
Picked this up for cheap today, mostly for the bar, chain, air filter, bar cover and misc parts for my 285.

There is nothing on this saw to tell me which model it is. The piston is scored. The bore is close to 44mm, maybe a bit more.
Can anyone hazard a guess?
I appears to very complete and in good shape under all that grime except for the piston / cylinder issue and a burned through top cover.

IMG_0376_zps11566d30.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


I've got one of those... IIRC, mine turned out to be a 3100. I've got the final assumption on it's Poulan series number buried somewhere in this thread. Name of the pic being 3.0 is only an assumption since Poulan liked to cram anything from a tiny screaming 35cc all the way to a snorting 60+cc engine in the same case style.

attachment.php

My gray 2.8 is about 42mm and roomies crunched 3.3 is about 46mm so I'm gonna say you probably have a 3.0/3000 - unless you order the "correct" (ha) P/C from Sears Parts Central since they currently show the 2.8/2800 IPL for all the 2.8/3.0/3.3 series... (thanks a lot K-Mart for ruining Sears...)

I'll pull the cylinder off and see what kind of shape that's in after I go through the saw and if it can be saved, order a new piston for it. I have a PP500 that needs to get running well, I'm getting my 4200 prepped for paint and a 3800 that needs going through so I need to get them done first.

I'm hoping there is a PN on the cylinder so I can see what I've got as far as displacement goes. I think it may be a 3000 as that style of hand guard is shown only on that saw in the Sears IPL's.



Thanks for the replies.
 
I'll pull the cylinder off and see what kind of shape that's in after I go through the saw and if it can be saved, order a new piston for it. I have a PP500 that needs to get running well, I'm getting my 4200 prepped for paint and a 3800 that needs going through so I need to get them done first.

I'm hoping there is a PN on the cylinder so I can see what I've got as far as displacement goes. I think it may be a 3000 as that style of hand guard is shown only on that saw in the Sears IPL's.



Thanks for the replies.

Tim it wont be a 3000 as it will be a Craftsman 3.0. There was never a direct 3000 rebadged saw as far as I have ever seen. The Sears version will have a unplated bore
 
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