redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
yea, I'd rebuild the carb as well. Also good advice to do a pressure/vac test. INteresting note on the leaking cylinder stud. I've never had one leak there but its good to know, just in case.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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yea, I'd rebuild the carb as well. Also good advice to do a pressure/vac test. INteresting note on the leaking cylinder stud. I've never had one leak there but its good to know, just in case.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Makita 6421 ( i have a 6400 converted to a 7900) are strong saws, but heavier than a PP375. If weight isn't an issue, I'd get the 6421.
Ambull01
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Thanks. I'll check the weight on both saws. I'm going to use it for bucking and limbing. Cut at least 4 cords a year
All leaked here, the last one really bad. I guess the leak rate varies by how loose the case threads fit the stud threads, but
you would think that the jug gasket would seal it off well enough?
The pic's not very good, but it's the grey blob right behind the manual oiler rod & right above the points cover. Normally you would
see partial threads there from the "through tapping". They should have cast that hole blind, just like the bottom side.
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I'm pretty sure that the 375 is a Poulan 3700 with a 4000 air filter setup.
Great, durable easy to work on saws.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
I looked on Acres. The 375 was introduced in 1993, not sure when they stopped making them. The 3700 was made from 1980-1983. So the saw could be about 21 years old. What is the lifespan of a chainsaw? I heard they can last a long time with proper maintenance but what age would you consider too old to use? Guess that doesn't make a lot of sense. It's too old to use when fixing them becomes more expensive than buying a new/comparable used saw. It's kind of amazing how long chainsaws last. I read one of the downsides of a two cycle engine is the fact that it's not as durable/long lasting as a four cycle. That theory goes right out the window when a 21 year old saw can still be used as a reliable firewood saw.
Dad's still using a Poulan 306 he bought in 1974 (40 years), runs perfectly with the original top end (but new rings)
& even has the "Poulan" branded spark plug.
& even has the "Poulan" branded spark plug.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wow, impressive. Guess I have nothing to worry about then if it's in good shape. It's only 21 years young. The saying "they don't make them like they used to" really applies to chainsaws it seems. At least in Poulan's case.
Most parts are easily found for the saws. Top ends can get expensive. Starter pulleys are getting very hard to find. I'm not sure about air filters. Just about everything else is available on line and prices are reasonable.
The air filters can be easily repaired. I put a 3400 flywheel on one of my 3700's as the 3400 pulleys are still made. I think the starter pulleys stand up pretty well unless the operator is a ham fisted ape.
There are lots of guys on here who have been using these saws for many years for their firewood.
There are so many 3400/3700 saws Poulan and rebranded saws like Craftsman out there that a parts saw should be very easy to come by.
I would be happy to get a 375.
The air filters can be easily repaired. I put a 3400 flywheel on one of my 3700's as the 3400 pulleys are still made. I think the starter pulleys stand up pretty well unless the operator is a ham fisted ape.
There are lots of guys on here who have been using these saws for many years for their firewood.
There are so many 3400/3700 saws Poulan and rebranded saws like Craftsman out there that a parts saw should be very easy to come by.
I would be happy to get a 375.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
So basically if it's not scored (not really certain what that means lol) or have really low compression then it should be good to go. Other stuff can be fixed for relatively cheap.
Crap. I can be a ham fisted ape at times. I'm learning to control myself as I get older though. I like fiddling with things but at times I just want the sucker to run properly so I can knock out tasks.
Hope the guy responds to my email! I may just buy the 375 and the little Stihl he has.
If you get it, The most common issues with those saws are the fuel and vent lines being rotted off. It's best to replace them with Tygon fuel line if they are suspect anyway + a new fuel filter.
Also a good time to do a carb cleaning and put a new kit in.
Also a good time to do a carb cleaning and put a new kit in.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
I had to replace the fuel line in my crappy Homelite. Somehow it rotted/snapped off in the fuel tank. Pretty easy fix besides trying to get the line into the little fuel tank hole.
Carb cleaning I'm kind of concerned about lol. I think that's what the Homelite needs. Used to bog down at full throttle now it only runs if I constantly feather the throttle and had to set the idle really high.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Speaking of new fuel line, do you guys know the original size fuel line for the 4200-5200 saws? 1/4" seems to not quite be snug enough in the hole and the next bigger line fits super tight.
If a fuel line is to big will it give the carb more fuel than it needs and cause it to get to much fuel in the cylinder?
If a fuel line is to big will it give the carb more fuel than it needs and cause it to get to much fuel in the cylinder?
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh crap! They have different size fuel lines!!? That may be why my Homelite crapped out on me.
3/16 ID, 5/16 OD Tygon.
The carb will only draw and meter the amount it is designed to deliver. No issues with the large fuel line.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks that's what I picked up but I'm just having a hard time getting it through.
Cut enough taper on the end of the fuel line so it sticks through the hole. Run a piece of thin wire down the fuel line hole in the tank and out the fuel tank fill hole. Attach the tapered hose to the wire (pierce a hole in the fuel line) and pull the fuel line using the wire up through the fuel line hole.
It helps to grease the fuel line so it slides through the hole more easily. Tug the line through the hole until you can get some needlenose pliers on it to pull it the rest of the way through.
It helps to grease the fuel line so it slides through the hole more easily. Tug the line through the hole until you can get some needlenose pliers on it to pull it the rest of the way through.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks, I used the instructions in the manual but piercing a hole in the line with the wire and greasing up the line are great ideas.
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