Nik's Poulan Thread

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I'm thinking that my first Craftsman 3.7 has the slotted AF cover (I'd need to check)

.....but.....

I bought it used from a guy who bought it used, and he didn't know the history of it.
 
update on Poulan 455 oiler. Screen pick-up appears to be fine. I think I see the problem possibly though now. Not sure how to seal it back up though?

he end cap on the oil pump is loose and fell off as I took the pump out. I'm guessing this allows it to possibly pull air in?

The gears look good. The pump seems a little stiff to roll over though.

Thoughts on this cap being off?

47f95b08cf2dba6f938830265d4ebd27.jpg



Sent from somewhere

I would clean up the pump and carefully JB weld the cap back on. Having sad that I would also ask for advice on that over in the Pioneer forums as the saw is a Pioneer design. They my be able to shed more light on the repair.

The pump would likely suck air through that opening.
 
I may have to jump over there as I thought of that later about it being pioneer. It pmps oil now but the bar plugs up the oil hole with chips. My only other thought is the chain is stretched so far it is allowing debris to come around and plug bar oiler hole? Thoughts on that? Bar adjustment is almost to limit


Sent from somewhere
 
Gentlemen, I am at my wits end with vendors. Dose anybody have experience with Rotary #12486 air filter for 295/4620? The 530036141 are NLA, but everybody has a pic in their ad. Replacement is 545057701 which is PUR-D GARBAGE, not worth a dime. I imagine an old sock would be better!

The Rotary looks decent....but......tired of ordering and getting sent over priced ****!

What are you using? HELP
 
Latest saw I've gotten around to.

Had a monkey of a time with the hda-49. Ultra sensitive. Thought I was chasing an air leak or impulse issue in spite of all manner of case/carb, pressure/vacuum testing.

New seals, cleaned up piston, flipped rings, delete base gasket (still 0.027"), flipped diffuser/drilled out baffle plate and a homeade spike. Needs a small weld to secure the brake flag.
Rips well enough.Poulan 3000 (3) 1.jpg Poulan 3000 (4) 1.jpg
 
Thanks Max.

That spike is a redneck custom. Jigsaw, grinder and dremel. I used a factory one off of a PP335 to get the case profile/mounting holes in the correct place. With the shorter bars, I find the factory ones equipped are a bit "long in the spike" if you want to get into some decent sized wood.
 
Latest saw I've gotten around to.

Had a monkey of a time with the hda-49. Ultra sensitive. Thought I was chasing an air leak or impulse issue in spite of all manner of case/carb, pressure/vacuum testing.

New seals, cleaned up piston, flipped rings, delete base gasket (still 0.027"), flipped diffuser/drilled out baffle plate and a homeade spike. Needs a small weld to secure the brake flag.
Rips well enough.View attachment 445181 View attachment 445182

you get it here, i'll weld.
 
I did find setting the carb to be a bit tricky. It really likes it rich on the L to get the snap off the throttle > 1 1/2 or so.
Can't speak from what is normal with these saws, but it received a full kit and metering arm set using "W" tool. It does seems to idle all day long and starts/throttles effortlessly.

Cory,
I just did the oil pump cover modification to partially block off the slot to all six of the S25DA saws that Dad & I run, and it cured chasing that carb adjustment around on them all. I think it creates a varying air leak by design.:)

I used old stainless steel windshield wiper blade inserts for the bridges, cut them into pieces with a Dremel cut off.
JB weld two part epoxy was the potting material.

They will now pass pressure testing without having to pull the oil pump cover and plug the impulse hole off too.

Now moving on to the rebuild of the torn up 5300-22124 oiling diaphragms...
 

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Cory,
I just did the oil pump cover modification to partially block off the slot to all six of the S25DA saws that Dad & I run, and it cured chasing that carb adjustment around on them all. I think it creates a varying air leak by design.:)

I used old stainless steel windshield wiper blade inserts for the bridges, cut them into pieces with a Dremel cut off.
JB weld two part epoxy was the potting material.

They will now pass pressure testing without having to pull the oil pump cover and plug the impulse hole off too.

Now moving on to the rebuild of the torn up 5300-22124 oiling diaphragms...

Nice job Randy. That will be a winter project for me. I am very interested in how you will make out with those diaphragms and the integrated pintle/button.

With the revamped covers, what order are you stacking the gasket and diaphragm? IIRC, I was uncertain according to conflicting (?) IPL's and think I had the diaphragm against the cover.

On a side note, I just ran another 3400 using that new membrane. They seem to oil stronger with more run time. A nice line of spray at mid throttle now. Hopefully that material proves up to the task with the s25da pumps.
 
That material works fine for both series, I'm just wanting to do all six of the worn out S25DA diaphragms at the same time.

The sequence that works best for me is the diaphragm first on the pump body, then the gasket, then the cover.

If you're not running a modded cap, then at least the thick gasket is trying to hold the diaphragm down in that slotted area.

I had one early pump body, out of the six, that had a tiny slot cast into the body, which makes the leak even worse. That was the first slotted body that I had seen. The others were simply milled flat.
 
Your too damn organized![/QU
Latest saw I've gotten around to.

Had a monkey of a time with the hda-49. Ultra sensitive. Thought I was chasing an air leak or impulse issue in spite of all manner of case/carb, pressure/vacuum testing.

New seals, cleaned up piston, flipped rings, delete base gasket (still 0.027"), flipped diffuser/drilled out baffle plate and a homeade spike. Needs a small weld to secure the brake flag.
Rips well enough.View attachment 445181 View attachment 445182

Wow really nice!
 
Dad sent me a few more pics of the $35 3400. Looks like the clutch cover is missing a little piece at the bottom and from the circular handle bolt at the back it would be an earlier 3400 correct? The hex bolt one is the later version right? Anyway, anxious to get it from him and get it cleaned up and go through it.

View attachment 443946
View attachment 443947
View attachment 443949
View attachment 443950

If you stay around long enough the same or similar topics will come up over time. I can never find my postings so have been trying to bookmark certain pages for quick reference. About half way down the page link below I have some of the identifiers of the earlier 3400's with pictures. There is also an addition to that post farther down like Gregg said the thin tabs on the oil cap.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-1695
 
If you stay around long enough the same or similar topics will come up over time. I can never find my postings so have been trying to bookmark certain pages for quick reference. About half way down the page link below I have some of the identifiers of the earlier 3400's with pictures. There is also an addition to that post farther down like Gregg said the thin tabs on the oil cap.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-1695

Thanks for link, I remember seeing that. I'll get it cleaned up tonight and get some better pics. Still need to check the p/c too.
 
So this 3400 turned out to be a pretty interesting saw. Got it cleaned up tonight and took some pics. It is an early 3400 with the adjustable oiler on the bottom and circular rod at the back handle and the plastics say 79 for 1979 model. But it doesn't have the lighter paint it has the same bright green as my later one.

The negatives:

Has a crack in the top cover but not bad.

20150909_215827.jpg

The rear handle was cracked and welded and re pained but looks to be done ok. The clutch cover is missing a piece and the chain tensioner is gone.

20150909_215804.jpg

The original round air filter cover screw is missing.

20150909_215858.jpg

Now for the positives:)

All the paint is in pretty good shape overall, the piston and cylinder look fantastic, I adjusted the carb and it runs great, just needs a duck bill valve.

Has the adjustable oiler on the bottom, pretty cool!

20150909_220114.jpg

Has a decent 20" Windsor bar and seems to be a solid saw overall.

20150909_220221.jpg

Also had an interesting diffuser inside the muffler. Not sure if it was drilled out our not. But the smaller holes look smaller than the stock holes on the later 3400s.

20150909_210237.jpg

With everything said I'm really happy with it.
I'm going to look for the following though if anyone had these spare parts.

Want to find a round stock air filter cover screw, a good shape replacement clutch cover and a chain tensioner screw/nut. If anyone has any of these to part with, let me know. Thanks guys.
 
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