Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I'll have to look the carb over again and see.
Nate, I'm certain those are the check valve parts that come out of that oil line fitting. The oiler won't work without them. They will probably only go in one way.
There are 2 check valves in that setup both in the 90 degree elbows. The one coming out of the oil tank is the intake check and the one coming out of the oiler housing in the handle is the discharge check.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks guys I'm petty sure that is where it goes too, I didn't think it went to the carb. I appreciate the help.
Any idea what to do about this?
The adjustment screw got smashed in and is really bent, won't turn at all. Is there a way to cut it out you think?
turn the screw until the bend points in. then, VERY carefully insert a screwdriver and gently nudge it outward until you can unscrew it from the nut. then take it out and replace. probly can get a replacement screw from local hardware or big box store. just don't break anything. shouldn't be too hard since that's not a big screw
I've got some bent ones that I just use bent. nothing gospel about it being truly straight
I've got some bent ones that I just use bent. nothing gospel about it being truly straight
The orange 4000 I picked up has not been paid much attention with Christmas approaching but, a few things.
The oil pump works but the saw is puking more oil out the vent hole than the oil port when it's running which makes me wonder if the sealant between the case halves is absent in a spot adjacent to the oil tank. I'm not sure though as it doesn't suck any oil into the crankcase. The cotter pin has worn the hole larger so I'll put a larger pin in it to keep the oil leaking so much when filling the tanks.
The crank also has a lot of lateral play. I don't think have one of that series close to this. I will split the case and set the lateral play as long as it's apart. The bearings may be OK but for what they cost I'll out new ones in while it's apart.
It will get new crank seals as well.
I have not cut with it but it runs well.
The oil pump works but the saw is puking more oil out the vent hole than the oil port when it's running which makes me wonder if the sealant between the case halves is absent in a spot adjacent to the oil tank. I'm not sure though as it doesn't suck any oil into the crankcase. The cotter pin has worn the hole larger so I'll put a larger pin in it to keep the oil leaking so much when filling the tanks.
The crank also has a lot of lateral play. I don't think have one of that series close to this. I will split the case and set the lateral play as long as it's apart. The bearings may be OK but for what they cost I'll out new ones in while it's apart.
It will get new crank seals as well.
I have not cut with it but it runs well.
Good job! When you get ready to do that to a Poulan 245, PM me.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks I appreciate the help from you and jerrycmorrow, I was able to get it done easily!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
It won't turn at all, believe me I tried. It's bent in so much I can see a small crack behind it from being bent in so far. I'll try and get the nut off and see if I can get it out.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Took a couple pictures of my big Counter Vibes last night since I have a 4200 now to go with the 5200's. They've got to be my favorite of all my saws.
Early model 4200
Early model 5200
Late model 5200 (Black Top)
Early model 4200
Early model 5200
Late model 5200 (Black Top)
albert
Addicted to ArboristSite
I woukd not split it. I am pretty sure if you pop the seals out you can tap the bearings in to adjust the end play. Leave iy alittle loose, they are not ment to be tight like a ball bearing that is a press fit. the crank floats in them.
TreeFan001
ArboristSite Lurker
Newbie Seeking help with fuel line for Wright 122 Chainsaw (I believe may be same as Poulan S25DA)
I hope I got this right... I'm a newbie... not sure how to start a new question....or whether to just tag onto the end of this thread?
I'm Seeking help with fuel line for Wright 122 Chainsaw (I believe same as Poulan S25DA).
The fuel lines were crispy and snapped off. I am trying to understand the fuel route and whether there is one continuous fuel line that travels from the carb through the body and then into the fuel tank ending at the fuel filter or whether there are several distinct pieces of fuel line that need to be connected to various key positions on the body.
The three pieces of crispy snapped fuel line that I have extracted are..
1) one piece several inches long from the carb to a hole on the top of the body
2) another piece several inches long underneath the pull rope leading to the tank (I believe).I can't immediately tell where the other end went.. but it must head up to the carb somehow.
3) a piece inside the tank attached to the filter
So should the replacement be one long single piece of fuel line?
I am reluctant to pick and poke around the various holes until I know for sure that I'm not going to damage or lose any special connectors that may (or may not) be inside those holes.
I have a request out to a member who posted many years ago to say he has a pristine copy of the service manual... I hope he's still around.
In the meantime, I was hoping someone might be familiar with this 40 year old saw and might understand the correct routing of the fuel line or lines.
Cheers
Stuart
I hope I got this right... I'm a newbie... not sure how to start a new question....or whether to just tag onto the end of this thread?
I'm Seeking help with fuel line for Wright 122 Chainsaw (I believe same as Poulan S25DA).
The fuel lines were crispy and snapped off. I am trying to understand the fuel route and whether there is one continuous fuel line that travels from the carb through the body and then into the fuel tank ending at the fuel filter or whether there are several distinct pieces of fuel line that need to be connected to various key positions on the body.
The three pieces of crispy snapped fuel line that I have extracted are..
1) one piece several inches long from the carb to a hole on the top of the body
2) another piece several inches long underneath the pull rope leading to the tank (I believe).I can't immediately tell where the other end went.. but it must head up to the carb somehow.
3) a piece inside the tank attached to the filter
So should the replacement be one long single piece of fuel line?
I am reluctant to pick and poke around the various holes until I know for sure that I'm not going to damage or lose any special connectors that may (or may not) be inside those holes.
I have a request out to a member who posted many years ago to say he has a pristine copy of the service manual... I hope he's still around.
In the meantime, I was hoping someone might be familiar with this 40 year old saw and might understand the correct routing of the fuel line or lines.
Cheers
Stuart
I want to reseal the case and change that cotter pin out. They are very easy saws to split. I've done it a few times. My other ones are all less than 0.015" lateral play.
I would say there isn't an easier saw to work on, at least that I've come across.
TreeFan001
ArboristSite Lurker
I've been chatting offline with kcomp1863
Between us we have lots of manuals for this old saw.
To answer my own question for anyone who ever searches and finds this posting...
It's one long continuous piece of fuel line.
The bits in the holes that I stumbled but could not see were just bits of old crispy fuel line!
A picture paints a thousand words.....
here are two photos that kcomp1863 kindly sent to me showing his total rebuild... in progress.
Between us we have lots of manuals for this old saw.
To answer my own question for anyone who ever searches and finds this posting...
It's one long continuous piece of fuel line.
The bits in the holes that I stumbled but could not see were just bits of old crispy fuel line!
A picture paints a thousand words.....
here are two photos that kcomp1863 kindly sent to me showing his total rebuild... in progress.
Attachments
What saw is that
1/8" x 3/16" is what is called for. I have found a batch of Tygon at that dimension a tad loose with the barbed vent fitting and fuel line. A bit of sealant around lines afterwards to help. 3/32" x 3/16" is another option. It will seal tighter at the vent if 1/8" is sloppy.
One tank on my 3400's does not like the 1/8" at the vent. Too loose.
Similar threads
