Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mark, the seller is a nice guy, and he wants to move the extra saws. He might do shipping for you. He mentioned a bow saw that was part of the original deal when he bought the saws, but I don't know what happened to it; he might've decided to keep it, or realized it was worth some $$.

I didn't mention the deal in advance because I didn't want any competition for the big Poulan saws.

Somerville is nearly a four hour drive round trip, easily over four hours if traffic out of & in to Houston sucks., Until Thursday I hadn't been there in over 40 years. BTW/FWIW, there is very little to do in Somerville to kill time :yes:. The dam in interesting, but not that interesting :rolleyes:.


Thanks but not a biggie, by the time shipping is involved its getting up there for what it is, which would be ok, but sight unseen, I don't think so.

I would be more inclined to do that if someone who I knew was checking it first, P/C for those are hard to come by.
 
I got a question that kinda ties in with what Steve & Mark were talking about with the oiled K&N type air filters. I have not oiled the one on my 655bp, yet, and am thinking maybe I will not. The saw will see little heavy everyday use...more of a once in awhile thing, and GTG's. Just looking at the filter, it appears like most any other filter material does. Seems to me it would stay cleaner after some use, just to clean it with compressed air. Oiling it makes sense as far as fine dust goes, but think it would over time clog up and attract more dust, if you will. ???

I agree with Mark on the non-use of the K&N type filter on the V-10 Triton. Most people, that is one of the first "mods" someone will do to them. The so called "cold air intake mod". I have heard that they just defeat the intended advantage. They are usually just exposed and open to the conditions under the hood. Which to me would be HEAT. The factory air inlet comes straight in from the front, behind the grille, through a clean factory Motorcraft filter, then past the MAF sensor, on to the throttle body. Seems to me that air is much cooler. Than the air in the engine compartment under the hood. :yes:
Unfortunately, I have checked my mileage, 3 times, just runnin around here. Got 10.2 mpg.... LOL So I don't check it any more.


Poulan655bp%20004_zpsjcnwt5ao.jpg


Gregg,
 
I converted my first Jonsered 670 West Coast back to the standard filter from a K&N set-up. After doing a lot reading here on AS I just didn't see the advantage of the K&N. Maybe as a "fire" saw that would see a lot of fines????
 
Decided to make a new chopping block for camp. Oak round topped with 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood going opposite grain. Sealed with old oil. It's just easier to split a couple hear and there than pulling out the splitter. Plus it makes the the ones that do not do cut and only burn do some kind of work. DSCN0797.JPG
 
I got a question that kinda ties in with what Steve & Mark were talking about with the oiled K&N type air filters. I have not oiled the one on my 655bp, yet, and am thinking maybe I will not. The saw will see little heavy everyday use...more of a once in awhile thing, and GTG's. Just looking at the filter, it appears like most any other filter material does. Seems to me it would stay cleaner after some use, just to clean it with compressed air. Oiling it makes sense as far as fine dust goes, but think it would over time clog up and attract more dust, if you will. ???

I agree with Mark on the non-use of the K&N type filter on the V-10 Triton. Most people, that is one of the first "mods" someone will do to them. The so called "cold air intake mod". I have heard that they just defeat the intended advantage. They are usually just exposed and open to the conditions under the hood. Which to me would be HEAT. The factory air inlet comes straight in from the front, behind the grille, through a clean factory Motorcraft filter, then past the MAF sensor, on to the throttle body. Seems to me that air is much cooler. Than the air in the engine compartment under the hood. :yes:
Unfortunately, I have checked my mileage, 3 times, just runnin around here. Got 10.2 mpg.... LOL So I don't check it any more.


Poulan655bp%20004_zpsjcnwt5ao.jpg


Gregg,

I'd be oiling it Gregg. You don't want those fines going through the carb into a relatively rare P&C.

Looks really nice.
 
Hi fellas.

I am trying to help a local homeowner with a new Poulan p3416. Unfortunately it sat in a box until past warranty. Will start and idle. Dies on hard throttle and when coming off.

Under the hood is a totally different look than I am used to. Going to make a tool/sleeve to more easily adjust that carb. Rough estimation puts the L out at 1-1/4. Something isn't right

Anyone have experience with these box store units? I am hoping it is a simple carb adjust - and waaay richer at that. Don't want to go any further into this than I need.
 
Go 1 1/2 turn out on both and go from there. Sounds like my dad, has a new WT still in the box he bought 5 years ago. Will have to readjust hi speed as the saw breaks in. They come set lean to pass EPA. Haven't seen one yet that didn't need to be setup. Just done a PP4018 today, reset hi speed.

Steve
 
Thanks Steve. Used a pen tube to turn those screws. Going to Dremel a proper slot in the head of each one.

Played around with the L. Was getting happier at 2+ turns out. Seems rather far from factory settings. But, I've officially 15 min. total experience with any Poulan less than 25 years old. And, it sure wasn't running at 1 1/4 on each out of the box.
 
Thanks Steve. Used a pen tube to turn those screws. Going to Dremel a proper slot in the head of each one.

Played around with the L. Was getting happier at 2+ turns out. Seems rather far from factory settings. But, I've officially 15 min. total experience with any Poulan less than 25 years old. And, it sure wasn't running at 1 1/4 on each out of the box.

Try 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 on both.
 
Mentioning trees...

I'm surrounded by them. Many of them are oak dating back to the late '50s & early '60s, along with quite a few pine trees and a fair number of pecan trees.

Sounds good, yes?
Actually no, the vast majority of them are in peoples yards or on city property.

I do have a large no-doubt-about-it-dead hackberry tree in my backyard that really needs to be removed. The problem is it's too tall to fell, and it's very near the main power line and the power lines going to my house and a neighbors house. I'll have to get a tree service to remove it.
 
Mentioning trees...

I'm surrounded by them. Many of them are oak dating back to the late '50s & early '60s, along with quite a few pine trees and a fair number of pecan trees.

Sounds good, yes?
Actually no, the vast majority of them are in peoples yards or on city property.

I do have a large no-doubt-about-it-dead hackberry tree in my backyard that really needs to be removed. The problem is it's too tall to fell, and it's very near the main power line and the power lines going to my house and a neighbors house. I'll have to get a tree service to remove it.
I had a similar situation. I called the power company, they said they don't help with that problem. I complained that that seems wrong for safety reasons. When I came home the next day it was topped and dropped so I guess they agreed.

Brian
 

Latest posts

Back
Top