Nik's Poulan Thread

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Whats an easy way to get the two manifold bolts off without removing the cyclinder? Found some air bubbles at the bottom of the gasket.

Nothing about that is easy. I’ve always pulled the jug. Be a good time to decarbon the piston top, ring grooves, & exhaust port, lol.

Plan to cut a new cylinder gasket from a paper grocery sack, as most will tear. You may get lucky though.

I suppose you could cobble up something, like use a 5/16” nut runner end & an ignition wrench to turn it, but it will take some patience getting those two bolts out.
 
Nothing about that is easy. I’ve always pulled the jug. Be a good time to decarbon the piston top, ring grooves, & exhaust port, lol.

Plan to cut a new cylinder gasket from a paper grocery sack, as most will tear. You may get lucky though.

I suppose you could cobble up something, like use a 5/16” nut runner end & an ignition wrench to turn it, but it will take some patience getting those two bolts out.

The piston and jug are completely clean, I did a full teardown to replace the case halves last year and then had the vac issue since. Its been on the back burner til now. Got the screws out but one is too buggered up to reuse. I'll find a new pair next I go into town.
 
Any idea what parts from a poulan 361 will for a 306a or a 245a? Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not much. Bar & chain, bar guide plates, gas cap, piston, carb & fuel filter.

Print out the two or three IPLs, grab a cold beer or two, & have at them with a highlighter while you watch the MLB World series.
 
Sometimes I end up resorting to dunking the saw in a bin of water for tracing stubborn leaks. Pull the ignition, block it all off, pressure it up, dunk and watch for that elusive stream of bubbles.

Sounds extreme! :laugh: I've got a gasket coming in the mail. I'll block it off against the cylinder tomorrow and try again before I go as far as dunking it.
 
Sounds like what we do when trying to find a extremely slow leak in a tire, we use a tire tube and dunk it in want wait. Seen a few rims with tiny pin holes in them, like micro bubbles.

Steve

I remember doing this to find pin hole leaks in the tubes of bicycles. Ahh memories.
 
What's the go with the MRA windsor bar? It came on the 4000 and seems kind of a odd we thing its a nice bar I guess but looks weard. What was the idea behind the small tip? I've searched alot and cant really find much about them good bad or other wise. I've got a 20inch STA speed tip on a mac and its a really nice bar and doesnt wear alot. This MRA tip is only 18 and kind of short for 64cc I've got other saws for that size bar what lengths are you guys running on these 4000's?20181025_191944.jpg
 
Looks like a reduced kick back bar with the small radius. I run 20" or less on my says, even run a 16" on my 3700 build. My 5200 wears a 18" bar.
906672f2deda85e1dbeb0250e46baf7f.jpg


Steve
 
Yea 20 is a big tree for me too ok cheers guys i guess it will really rip with a shorter bar. Far out Steve 18 on that 5200 that thing must be unstoppable. I've got 24 on my mac 800 and to be fair its annoying alot of the time yet people scoff aww I wouldn't run any less than 28 on that bla bla. Is it just me to notice but some relate it to there member size? Haha
 
Shes holding pessure at 5psi for 30 seconds, didnt watch for longer. Also held vac 5psi for 30 seconds. The gasket from the cylinder to the intake manifold was the problem. I have that and the carb gasket in the mail. Looking forward to having the saw back into running condition. Thanks for all the teaching guys, I really appreciate it.
 
4082D0A0-3421-4F4D-8E95-43534CDD0DB2.jpeg Finally got around to doing my 4200. I started working on it in the spring. Did new skf crank seals that didn’t end up fitting as good as I wanted. Ordered the rights parts and the saw has sit in the corner ever since. So did new factory crank and oil pump seal yeasterday. Have that black 5200 hat on the top of it, anyone wanna trade for the correct green one?
 

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