Silly question but new to chainsaws. I have a thread posted in the Chainsaw forum regarding my Poulan 2300 and its idling problems ( https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-2300-tuning-issues.325146/ ), as at idle, it sometimes idles fast enough for the chain to spin round. Also, while holding it throttle down for a period of time, it still spins very quickly at a high idle. I had taked the air filter cover off to adjust the carburetor. I have tried many settings with still no luck. Then I stumbled across a thread that said to see if the adjusting worked, it is advised to replace the cover again as it acts differently with and without the cover attached. It has a new fuel line and filter and there is no fuel delivery issue that I can notice as the only time it died out is when I was playing with teh carburetor. Then I tried adjusting it again and I got it to stay running. I do not know the exact model of carburetor, but it has three adjustments. High, low, and an idle. Is there a proper sequence to adjust the carburetor in, ie in which order is it best to adjust the carburetor in? Sorry if my terminology is incorrect, but if one needs clarification, I can add a picture or explain it better. Thank you.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Sorry for this other question, but the air filter is in good condition, and I washed it in hot soapy water and let it dry thoroughly before reinstalling. However, it is apparently a discontinued item, so am wondering what others use to make a new one out of? Thanks again.
Any foam material can be cut down to make it, needs to be same type, eBay does have them occasionally,
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Your clutch could be getting weak, or you could have a small air leak, crank seals etc, carburetor adjustment is one turn out to start on H & L , idle so chain does not spin
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Oil the air filter and squeeze out the excess oil before installing.
Steve
Steve
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
530023791 is the part number, it is still made, take a look on ebay.
Thanks for the tip. I did not know to oil it. I will do a little reading on how to do it and type of oil to use. Thanks again.
Thanks for the help. I am hoping that it is nothing more than the carburetor settings. I hopefully will have time today to check it out some more. Is there any particular way preffered to check for air leaks, and any places in common to look for them?
Pour some motor oil in a zip lock bag, drop filter in and squeeze around for a bit, remove filter and put it in a rag and squeeze out excessive oil.
Steve
Steve
mine [4200] has. not knowing if it's early or not, but top cover is held down by one nut.
Thanks for the info mine is the same as yours, I won't worry about it anymore
My 5200 doesn't have the brace but single but cover. Been looking around for a knob for the cover instead of a nut. Haven't found what I like yet.
Steve
Steve
challenger
Cheese is good.
Why can't I start my 25DA?
I've been chasing a problem with this saw for weeks. After a lot of futile diagnosis it turned out that there was a fuel delivery problem. The saw was running out of fuel after using it for several minutes. I thought it was a too restrictive fuel filter which ended up being wrong so I went further. The saw had the original seals so I did a pressure test and it was leaking from the PTO side so I changed both sides. I checked the points which look great and I gapped the coil. I also put a carb kit in the walbro carb while I was at it and saw that the screen looked plugged with a sort of grayish crap. The gas tank, I guess, was the source of this material because it had some corrosion in it. I opened the gas tank and cleaned it as well as I could. After putting it back together it started right up and, after tuning the high/low, it ran great BUT still quit after running for a few minutes. I thought maybe that fine screen in the carb blocked up again so I took it apart again and the screen looked fine. I tried running it again but I can't get it started now. The top of the Reed valve looks wet and it will pop off briefly and die. I was thinking maybe it flooded so I pulled the rope with the throttle wide open which generally works but didn't. The plug was dry so I have no idea wtf is going on.
Here is what I can offer thus far:
New fuel line.
New fuel filter.
New crank seals.
New P&C with only a few hours running.
When I did have it running it ran great.
If anyone can offer a troubleshooting flow chart I'd greatly appreciate it. Seems like I'm chasing my tail at this point.
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I've been chasing a problem with this saw for weeks. After a lot of futile diagnosis it turned out that there was a fuel delivery problem. The saw was running out of fuel after using it for several minutes. I thought it was a too restrictive fuel filter which ended up being wrong so I went further. The saw had the original seals so I did a pressure test and it was leaking from the PTO side so I changed both sides. I checked the points which look great and I gapped the coil. I also put a carb kit in the walbro carb while I was at it and saw that the screen looked plugged with a sort of grayish crap. The gas tank, I guess, was the source of this material because it had some corrosion in it. I opened the gas tank and cleaned it as well as I could. After putting it back together it started right up and, after tuning the high/low, it ran great BUT still quit after running for a few minutes. I thought maybe that fine screen in the carb blocked up again so I took it apart again and the screen looked fine. I tried running it again but I can't get it started now. The top of the Reed valve looks wet and it will pop off briefly and die. I was thinking maybe it flooded so I pulled the rope with the throttle wide open which generally works but didn't. The plug was dry so I have no idea wtf is going on.
Here is what I can offer thus far:
New fuel line.
New fuel filter.
New crank seals.
New P&C with only a few hours running.
When I did have it running it ran great.
If anyone can offer a troubleshooting flow chart I'd greatly appreciate it. Seems like I'm chasing my tail at this point.
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Have you checked your points? http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...6bfc000cbe71&usg=AOvVaw2VkAHQS5hCu7b9SifwANrv
Still got a good blue spark at the plug?
Steve
Steve
Start from scratch, the three things needed for any engine to run are
Compression
Spark
Fuel,
If it starts on spray & quits , most likely a fuel delivery issue, I would peek at the P/C again though
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The one I had a war with didn't have the float level set right and it was acting like yours
challenger
Cheese is good.
I looked at the float lever. I read that it should be even with the area casting surrounding the well it sits in.
I will also check the spark again. Thanks
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I will also check the spark again. Thanks
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Spark should be nice blue, not yellow looking.
Steve
Steve
Just saving some pics of the early 415 475 tanks.
Showing the trigger system etc.
First time noticing this tank vent style in one. IPL http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpropp415chainsaw.pdf of what I am used to seeing. Wonder if someone changed it at the FD.
Showing the trigger system etc.
First time noticing this tank vent style in one. IPL http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpropp415chainsaw.pdf of what I am used to seeing. Wonder if someone changed it at the FD.
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