Nik's Poulan Thread

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Jethro that war with the log and it looked like a war that you won was something that I haven't seen before, much different than the 16" pine that I cut. I was trying to think what a 5400 would do under the same situation. Should I send you one so we can tell. Lol. Outstanding job you're doing. Thanks for the video

It's a big old cut for sure it's very very knotty so rather hard going even with real nice full chisel Stihl chain and over half a tank of gas too she runs out next cut lol Monterey cypress we call it macrocarpa a bit harder than Monterey pine but still a "soft" wood. It's all heating 4 or 5 family's homes for next year ☺ I've been told the 5400 is very comparable

If I see a cheap 10-10 I'll consider it.

A 7-10 or pm700 is a big bore 10-10 70cc vs 54 wonderful saws the 70cc models
 
Love it. I'm sad that my craftsman isn't the big boy anymore but it was eye opening to use a modern 70cc pro saw. The Craftsman isn't a slouch though by any means.

That husky looks like it's a monster alright


I often wonder what that man and his bikes would have achieved had the cancer not taken him so early. See guy Martin took it for a blast and loved it. How well known is it over your way?
 
Trying to do a pressure and vac test on the carb after I installed the rebuild kit.
The check valve gasket and the needle are wet with 2 stroke oil, so I know that it can hold a proper seal.
I also, this is good advice for people that don’t know, do a pressure/vac test on the hose and adapter for the mighty vac itself to make sure it is a constant and not a variable :)

Vacuum holds at -10 no problem
Pressure passes...

Now on this carb I noticed there is an actual check valve in the metering body. I replaced its screen and I did put a fuel line up to it to confirm it does indeed work. It will not allow vacuum but allows pressure.

So my question is
Is it even possible to do a pressure test with the hdb series walbro carb because of this additional check on the metering side?

Or is something wrong?

I also have the diaphragm on first and gasket second, for appropriate needle height engagement, or is this incorrect?

Cuinrearview, you have mentioned this is the right way before, hopefully I don’t have a case of dyslexia on this note :)
 
Trying to do a pressure and vac test on the carb after I installed the rebuild kit.
The check valve gasket and the needle are wet with 2 stroke oil, so I know that it can hold a proper seal.
I also, this is good advice for people that don’t know, do a pressure/vac test on the hose and adapter for the mighty vac itself to make sure it is a constant and not a variable :)

Vacuum holds at -10 no problem
Pressure passes...

Now on this carb I noticed there is an actual check valve in the metering body. I replaced its screen and I did put a fuel line up to it to confirm it does indeed work. It will not allow vacuum but allows pressure.

So my question is
Is it even possible to do a pressure test with the hdb series walbro carb because of this additional check on the metering side?

Or is something wrong?

I also have the diaphragm on first and gasket second, for appropriate needle height engagement, or is this incorrect?

Cuinrearview, you have mentioned this is the right way before, hopefully I don’t have a case of dyslexia on this note :)

On the metering side, the gasket goes against the carb body and the diaphragm is on top of that under the cover.

It's the other way around on the pump side.

Diagram on the Walbro site here.
https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C7gEAF
 
Gasket first, then diaphragm on the metering side. Reverse on the the pump side.

Sounds like your carb passes the test. You are really just checking the metering needle operation that moderates fuel movement from pump to metering side. The check in the main nozzle is open to atmosphere, being at the end of the line. It is supposed to function under the vacuum and pressure created at the venturi of the carb. Prevents the metering/idle circuit from drawing air back into the fuel at idle. Prevents lean idle and erratic symptoms.

You can seat both L and H needles and pressure it up if you just want to check that the covers and gaskets are sealing. But, it is common to get small bubbles on the pump side if you are dunking it when testing. Depress the metering needle to allow pressure into the metering side. Just make certain the metering needle is popping off and reseating at 10lbs or higher. Fuel pump pressure is lower than this. I've had many that hold 20+ lbs before popping. That upper threshold isn't important. Just the 10 lbs (or so) min.

Edit: I see the old fella beat me to it. Thanks Tim.
 
On the metering side, the gasket goes against the carb body and the diaphragm is on top of that under the cover.

It's the other way around on the pump side.

Diagram on the Walbro site here.
https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C7gEAF
That links is very helpful!

What online distributor do you guys use for walbro parts?
The Canadian ones listed on the site are no good, the one in Quebec seems to work but I ain’t ordering from Quebec!!

They usually hate English speaking
 
Hopefully they came to nz



Mac pm800 so 82cc and 32inch bar not huge but still big enough though.

The pivot is the reason the trees are gone sadly. Trees are being wiped out left right and centre here for irrigation huge tall shelter belts from the sheep farming days. Looks like green desert now I hate it yet I build the dam milking sheds lol.

That bike is sex on wheels the sound of those old smokers is incredible. Should never of got rid of 2 stroke gp bikes

Kim Newcomb you guys should Google him. Was a kiwi guy in west Germany and carried on with a guys idea of a konig outboard engine in a gp bike this bike got the ball rolling for 2 strokes on the tarmac and he was very fast he got killed at Silverstone in a horrible way due too a pompous old English *******. Would have been a world champion next year for sure on a 2 banga. Yamaha and the rest stood up and went oh wow and the rest is history.

Any way more treesView attachment 750690 View attachment 750691View attachment 750692


Do any of you bike men know of the Britten?

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/wh...t-incredible-built-not-bought-bike-ever-made/


Saw a write up him several years ago. Britten was a brilliant guy.

If you haven't seen it, get a copy of the "The World's Fastest Indian" with Anthony Hopkins about Burt Munro's travels and first run at Bonneville. Hopkins said it was his favourite acting job as his personality is close to Burt's.
One of my favourite movies.
 
Saw a write up him several years ago. Britten was a brilliant guy.

If you haven't seen it, get a copy of the "The World's Fastest Indian" with Anthony Hopkins about Burt Munro's travels and first run at Bonneville. Hopkins said it was his favourite acting job as his personality is close to Burt's.
One of my favourite movies.

Yes definitely seen that is a great film
Still have a Burt Munroe festival in invercargil every year with motorcycle racing of every discipline is pretty popular a big pilgrimage from all over the country heads down
 
Saw a write up him several years ago. Britten was a brilliant guy.

If you haven't seen it, get a copy of the "The World's Fastest Indian" with Anthony Hopkins about Burt Munro's travels and first run at Bonneville. Hopkins said it was his favourite acting job as his personality is close to Burt's.
One of my favourite movies.

heard that ah did the flik for 25% of his going rate, because he "wanted" to do it.
have the dvd - and a 2006 "burt munro challenge" southland, nz. poster i found @ junk - aka garage sale...
pic on request... havent took any yet.
 
The 3400 is running!

I re tested the carb, pumped in some 2 stroke oil down the fuel inlet and it held pressure and vacuum at 10.

Put the gasket for carb diaphragm on properly as suggested, sealed up carb gasket and re did throttle / choke.
Checked my gap again, tested for spark and then started Pullin

Compression was at 120 could not get it any higher, but it was higher than before and it ran so...
She idles really smooth so far, didn’t run it for more than a minute without the cover due to lack of cooling. Blipped the throttle then shut her down.

Gonna clean up the cover and install it and then get to tuning it.
It runs and responds at 1 turn out on high and low, idle screw I am unsure what it is set at but I left it from where it original was.

Oiler is not working, diaphragm was changed thanks to Todd, and manual Oiler is not pumping oil out.
I did have this problem with the mcolloch super pro which has the same problem. It took a while of the engine running to get the oil to flow, I can only assume the oil is too thick to prime and once the engine heats up it should prime.

More to come.


Side note
I really must thank everyone who posts in this thread, without you I would have re assembled it wrong and would not have it running properly.
This was one of the easiest chainsaws I have worked on, the 3314 could be torn down in a similar and easier fashion. Of course this is a far far more superior saw... it really is too bad the company was bought out and went all out cheapo.. the poulan name today is really tarnished. Maybe one day the Chinese will clone this model for a kit package.
I’ll be on the lookout for another in a couple months, right now there are other things to do.
 
The 3400 is running!

I re tested the carb, pumped in some 2 stroke oil down the fuel inlet and it held pressure and vacuum at 10.

Put the gasket for carb diaphragm on properly as suggested, sealed up carb gasket and re did throttle / choke.
Checked my gap again, tested for spark and then started Pullin

Compression was at 120 could not get it any higher, but it was higher than before and it ran so...
She idles really smooth so far, didn’t run it for more than a minute without the cover due to lack of cooling. Blipped the throttle then shut her down.

Gonna clean up the cover and install it and then get to tuning it.
It runs and responds at 1 turn out on high and low, idle screw I am unsure what it is set at but I left it from where it original was.

Oiler is not working, diaphragm was changed thanks to Todd, and manual Oiler is not pumping oil out.
I did have this problem with the mcolloch super pro which has the same problem. It took a while of the engine running to get the oil to flow, I can only assume the oil is too thick to prime and once the engine heats up it should prime.

More to come.


Side note
I really must thank everyone who posts in this thread, without you I would have re assembled it wrong and would not have it running properly.
This was one of the easiest chainsaws I have worked on, the 3314 could be torn down in a similar and easier fashion. Of course this is a far far more superior saw... it really is too bad the company was bought out and went all out cheapo.. the poulan name today is really tarnished. Maybe one day the Chinese will clone this model for a kit package.
I’ll be on the lookout for another in a couple months, right now there are other things to do.

OMG!

Never pull a vacuum on the HDB carb like that, you probably ruined the needle tip already. Not sure what vac a “10” is, as there’s no units of measure, but any vac is not required.

Need to slow down & read the Walbro service ref manual again...
 
OMG!

Never pull a vacuum on the HDB carb like that, you probably ruined the needle tip already. Not sure what vac a “10” is, as there’s no units of measure, but any vac is not required.

Need to slow down & read the Walbro service ref manual again...
Oh.... manual? There’s a walbro manual?

I always thought that the check valve (plastic sheet) on the pump side would prevent vacuum from reaching the diaphragm?

It was -10 inches of mercury btw


Oh yes the Oiler is now working, manual and auto.
 
The 3400 is running!

I re tested the carb, pumped in some 2 stroke oil down the fuel inlet and it held pressure and vacuum at 10.

Put the gasket for carb diaphragm on properly as suggested, sealed up carb gasket and re did throttle / choke.
Checked my gap again, tested for spark and then started Pullin

Compression was at 120 could not get it any higher, but it was higher than before and it ran so...
She idles really smooth so far, didn’t run it for more than a minute without the cover due to lack of cooling. Blipped the throttle then shut her down.

Gonna clean up the cover and install it and then get to tuning it.
It runs and responds at 1 turn out on high and low, idle screw I am unsure what it is set at but I left it from where it original was.

Oiler is not working, diaphragm was changed thanks to Todd, and manual Oiler is not pumping oil out.
I did have this problem with the mcolloch super pro which has the same problem. It took a while of the engine running to get the oil to flow, I can only assume the oil is too thick to prime and once the engine heats up it should prime.

More to come.


Side note
I really must thank everyone who posts in this thread, without you I would have re assembled it wrong and would not have it running properly.
This was one of the easiest chainsaws I have worked on, the 3314 could be torn down in a similar and easier fashion. Of course this is a far far more superior saw... it really is too bad the company was bought out and went all out cheapo.. the poulan name today is really tarnished. Maybe one day the Chinese will clone this model for a kit package.
I’ll be on the lookout for another in a couple months, right now there are other things to do.

120 comp isn't bad. Not great but not bad. Typically 125 to 130 is the max.
 
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