Nik's Poulan Thread

[s sidewall]

Steve S,
What’s the story on those two newer vehicles?, from the pics it’s hard to tell the cause of damage.

Vette fell off a rack at some dealership and broke the car into big pieces. The truck was heading to our dealership. Driver had unloaded a truck that was under it and forgot the lower it back down. Nether less to say is the top got ripped off by a bridge and the driver said he never knew it til the next day

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[svk]

The S clip type? Because I didn't think it would be thick enough to take up the space.

I’ll grab a pic tomorrow.

 

[svk]

Got this guy back in action. Fuel lines had completely disintegrated so I put in a new one.

It was tuned so lean out that it would barely rev up. Makes you wonder if it ever cut wood.

 

[svk]

@Maintenance supervisor one of these

 

[svk]

Made chips and a few noodles fly with the 4620. Can’t wait to put a 16” bar and good chain on this.

 

[Ryanp2842]

So this happened today. Got yet another 4400. Pretty cool to see this one has the factory chain brake. Don't see that very often. I will probably sell this one once I clean it up, and check compression as I already have a near mint 4400. Or trade for a 3750????

 

[fossil]

Hello Corey, I‘m down to my last 3 from a 10 pack, then 6119 from now on.

The National seals are .001" larger in diameter than the SKF seals. That makes a big diff when installing them. Quite a few of the seals used in the older Poulans came from Singapore.

 

[3000 FPS]

The National seals are .001" larger in diameter than the SKF seals. That makes a big diff when installing them. Quite a few of the seals used in the older Poulans came from Singapore.

So does that make them a metric seal.

 

[hotshot]

Don’t think so Roger. The National box flap in my previous post shows standard imperial dimensions of 5/8 x 7/8 x 1/8” (nominal).

Frustrating. Never had simple seal installation issues like that before in any other make or series of equipment... so it may be operator error, Mexico made seals, or the wrong socket I am using for the driver.

When they hang up, the soft magnesium gets a divot formed inside the case bore, then you have to try to smooth that out & also apply motoseal or hylomar to prevent an outer bore leak. Could easily tune out that very small leak though.

Prob need to custom make a lathe faced off 1/2” black pipe or PVC driver with the inside opened up to fit over the 5/8” shaft. Sch 40, 1/2” black pipe is nominal 0.840 in OD & 0.622 in ID.

Rant is over, lol.

 

[Ryanp2842]

I use these for seal installations. They come with the cranks seal for Cummins engines cut to size, slip the seal over and makes installing them a breeze

 

[fossil]

So does that make them a metric seal.

No, but they are in spec. Just on the tight side. I don't find them too bad. I use a large flat washer over the seal and a deep socket over the washer to seat them. Works well.

 

[hotshot]

No, but they are in spec. Just on the tight side. I don't find them too bad. I use a large flat washer over the seal and a deep socket over the washer to seat them. Works well.

Never cocked & hung a single one up, or crushed it? You definitely have the touch Tim!

I’ve prob installed over 25 & ruined 8 or 9 total now. Zero issues with tiny S25 series at the same quantity, and none with $tihl saws.

I remember that redunshee had issues with the 3400 series in the past too.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/crank-seal-issues.98186/

 

[hotshot]

I use these for seal installations. They come with the cranks seal for Cummins engines cut to size, slip the seal over and makes installing them a breeze

Thanks, that’s for the ID, or lip side.

The OD is my problem, if your post was about the 3400 series seal replacement failures.

 

[fossil]

Never cocked & hung a single one up, or crushed it? You definitely have the touch Tim!

I’ve prob installed over 25 & ruined 8 or 9 total now. Zero issues with tiny S25 series at the same quantity, and none with $tihl saws.

I remember that rdunshee had issues with the 3400 series in the past too.

Wrecked one seal. I can't remember which saw it was. P'd me off. I'm very careful getting things lined up and started in the pocket.

I think the worst one I had was on a yellow saw, FW side. Most of those are easy but that one was a beotch.

Using the washer over the seal made it a lot easier.

 

[Ryanp2842]

Thanks, that’s for the ID, or lip side.

The OD is my problem, if your post was about the 3400 series seal replacement failures.

Ah gotcha imthus is for the lip seal

 

[3000 FPS]

No, but they are in spec. Just on the tight side. I don't find them too bad. I use a large flat washer over the seal and a deep socket over the washer to seat them. Works well.

I have a deep well socket that I ground the face off flat. It matches the outside diameter of the seal. I have ruined a couple but not enough to be a big problem. It work well for me. I do like the washer idea though.

 

[hotshot]

I have a deep well socket that I ground the face off flat. It matches the outside diameter of the seal. I have ruined a couple but not enough to be a big problem. It work well for me. I do like the washer idea though.

Thanks for the tip, I just ground my deep socket face down flat, but will make a 1/2” black pipe driver too.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I use a washer all so , but on the 3400 I found 2 OEM seals , I've had problems with the others.

 

[heimannm]

I have a PP5020 I am working on right now and would like to know if anyone is familiar with the basic carburetor settings? The saw will start just fine, idles O.K. but dies if you open the throttle. I went through the carburetor and replace the diaphragms (the metering diaphragm was quite stiff) and the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor but is still acts the same. I did check the settings when I started working on it and the L was around 2-1/2 turns open, H around 1-1/2.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I have a PP5020 I am working on right now and would like to know if anyone is familiar with the basic carburetor settings? The saw will start just fine, idles O.K. but dies if you open the throttle. I went through the carburetor and replace the diaphragms (the metering diaphragm was quite stiff) and the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor but is still acts the same. I did check the settings when I started working on it and the L was around 2-1/2 turns open, H around 1-1/2.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

View attachment 854047

The early yellow one I ended up here on. The newer black on I dont recall where I ended up.

copied my early one saved info http://chainsawrepair.createaforum....carb-carburetor-adjustment/msg50078/#msg50078
Old post by me on one I bought new. Out of wood tune.


Here is what I saw from factory settings and what I ended up with.

Thinking max was around13K. I liked mine around 12.8K.

When I got mine new.
I checked factory settings and then put them back to see. L was 1.5 out from lightly seated and H was 2 - 2.5 out (sorry cant remember H off hand).

It would start and not idle and shut off. Start and bog giving throttle.

I kept adjusting the carb till I ended up with about 3 out on L from lightly seated and left 2-2.5 on H out from lightly seated at about 12.8K. Turned the I idle up too. Not like the 1 to 1.5 turns out we get used to.