Nik's Poulan Thread

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what length bar do you have on your 245A? I ran a 26 inch bar on mine and think it would run more if needed. You may have to save up and import one, or look in neighboring areas that might have more of a lumber industry. I am lucky enough to be right on the outskirts of the lumber industry so some big saws show themselves and there are usually plenty of the mid size 5 cube variety, and occasionally I have to drive a hour or so to get one.

I have I think 4 20s and one 18 d176 mount. I've done the beaver away at ridiculous looking and unsafe notches before felling with a bar less than the radius of the trunk. I'll pass. I've done four large trees like that and it's freeking dangerous, at least for this rookie big tree feller. Been pushing my luck with big trees and gonna take it safer from here on out, plus get me some protective gear past steel toed boots. That trunk can sit for awhile until I get like an 85-100 Cc saw with like a large bar on it. I'm patient.

Mostly it's just the loot, my critters needs have to come first over saws, that's where most of my money goes now.

I *was* going to have a little extra from my tax rebate check this year, but the buyer for half a beef, a side, backed out, so I have to take the whole thing, plus my larger freezer conked out, so I have to replace that as well. That's the bulk of my tax check this year. I was going to do the p/c on my roached echo, then maybe look for a large project saw. Have to put that off now.

*shrugs* such is life. There's *some* big saws around here, but it isn't anything like what you got kicking around the PNW. You guys got the giant trees, so that's where the bulk of the old giant saws wound up at. Just is, is all. We have a lot of cheap not rusted out trucks. Tradeoffs.

Used saws here mostly fall into the 14-20 inch class, home renter/suburban warrior/farmer class saws. There's logging here of course, but most of the big trees were gone by the 40-50s. And mostly they use harvesters now anyway for logging. They'll tote like an old 372 or 440 maybe with them on the truck. That's big for around here, mostly. That's the largest the husky shop has in the store, and the local stihl shop, I *think* the largest on their rack is a 36..something, 1 or 2. Nothing with a 4 on it, you'd have to order it. Let alone a prefix 6 or 8.

I've seen one used husky 3120 in a shop getting repaired..for a trip out west to go do a job.

I was seriously impressed, especially with a new five foot bar on that thing. *That* was a serious saw. Not sure how many tanks I could run through something like that before calling it a day..maybe..third of a tank..HAHAHAHA

Never even seen a 660 or 880 in real life, just pictures.

Anything larger then homeowner saws you once in a really great while mostly see a used high end husky or stihl and they want more than the deals you can find here in the classifieds. I'll pass.

New saws..more than my trucks! I paid less, purchase plus repair parts, for both my trucks, under a grand in each one. The saw companies are nuts! I ain't paying 1500-2000 dollars for a chainsaw! I just ain't! I don't care if I win the lottery, I still wouldn't pay that. 1/20 the materials than in a riding lawnmower, less than half the moving parts, for the same money. Nuts. Price gouging. You can get a nice running 4wd truck for that around here! Nothing fancy, usually they have some "issues" and won't win any truck beautiful contests, but point A to B, on or offroad.

I have absolutely no idea how I will afford obummercare next year. We already grow a lot of our own food to save money, garden/beef/chicken, plus I don't drive much anyway, my insurance costs me more than what I put into the tank (which sucks royally, but I guess compared to most folks it's still real cheap). I only burn around 5-6 gallons of road diesel a month. Four trips to town a month, two trips to the no ethanol station for small engine fuel, that's it. Heck, I burn more two smoke and lawnmower 4 smoke fuel than I do road diesel. I just can't go much cheaper than that on dropping expenses.

I'll find one sometime, it'll show up when I am supposed to have it (old woodshippie thinking sneaking out there on me). I have plenty of other projects to work on right now, and tons of wood to cut that I can handle with what I have now. Tons.
 
Zogger, I feel for you. Here in Oz there are more big saws than little, particularly in the country, where I am. Our trees are big and hard and smaller saws don't cut it. I am sure you will uncover some nice saws if you keep looking. BTW, those 3400's are just fine for a lot of fire wood cutting.:msp_thumbup:

Al.
 
I have I think 4 20s and one 18 d176 mount. I've done the beaver away at ridiculous looking and unsafe notches before felling with a bar less than the radius of the trunk. I'll pass. I've done four large trees like that and it's freeking dangerous, at least for this rookie big tree feller. Been pushing my luck with big trees and gonna take it safer from here on out, plus get me some protective gear past steel toed boots. That trunk can sit for awhile until I get like an 85-100 Cc saw with like a large bar on it. I'm patient.

Mostly it's just the loot, my critters needs have to come first over saws, that's where most of my money goes now.

I *was* going to have a little extra from my tax rebate check this year, but the buyer for half a beef, a side, backed out, so I have to take the whole thing, plus my larger freezer conked out, so I have to replace that as well. That's the bulk of my tax check this year. I was going to do the p/c on my roached echo, then maybe look for a large project saw. Have to put that off now.

*shrugs* such is life. There's *some* big saws around here, but it isn't anything like what you got kicking around the PNW. You guys got the giant trees, so that's where the bulk of the old giant saws wound up at. Just is, is all. We have a lot of cheap not rusted out trucks. Tradeoffs.

Used saws here mostly fall into the 14-20 inch class, home renter/suburban warrior/farmer class saws. There's logging here of course, but most of the big trees were gone by the 40-50s. And mostly they use harvesters now anyway for logging. They'll tote like an old 372 or 440 maybe with them on the truck. That's big for around here, mostly. That's the largest the husky shop has in the store, and the local stihl shop, I *think* the largest on their rack is a 36..something, 1 or 2. Nothing with a 4 on it, you'd have to order it. Let alone a prefix 6 or 8.

I've seen one used husky 3120 in a shop getting repaired..for a trip out west to go do a job.

I was seriously impressed, especially with a new five foot bar on that thing. *That* was a serious saw. Not sure how many tanks I could run through something like that before calling it a day..maybe..third of a tank..HAHAHAHA

Never even seen a 660 or 880 in real life, just pictures.

Anything larger then homeowner saws you once in a really great while mostly see a used high end husky or stihl and they want more than the deals you can find here in the classifieds. I'll pass.

New saws..more than my trucks! I paid less, purchase plus repair parts, for both my trucks, under a grand in each one. The saw companies are nuts! I ain't paying 1500-2000 dollars for a chainsaw! I just ain't! I don't care if I win the lottery, I still wouldn't pay that. 1/20 the materials than in a riding lawnmower, less than half the moving parts, for the same money. Nuts. Price gouging. You can get a nice running 4wd truck for that around here! Nothing fancy, usually they have some "issues" and won't win any truck beautiful contests, but point A to B, on or offroad.

I have absolutely no idea how I will afford obummercare next year. We already grow a lot of our own food to save money, garden/beef/chicken, plus I don't drive much anyway, my insurance costs me more than what I put into the tank (which sucks royally, but I guess compared to most folks it's still real cheap). I only burn around 5-6 gallons of road diesel a month. Four trips to town a month, two trips to the no ethanol station for small engine fuel, that's it. Heck, I burn more two smoke and lawnmower 4 smoke fuel than I do road diesel. I just can't go much cheaper than that on dropping expenses.

I'll find one sometime, it'll show up when I am supposed to have it (old woodshippie thinking sneaking out there on me). I have plenty of other projects to work on right now, and tons of wood to cut that I can handle with what I have now. Tons.

I assume you're gonna vote next November?
 
Zogger, I feel for you. Here in Oz there are more big saws than little, particularly in the country, where I am. Our trees are big and hard and smaller saws don't cut it. I am sure you will uncover some nice saws if you keep looking. BTW, those 3400's are just fine for a lot of fire wood cutting.:msp_thumbup:

Al.

I'm liking the 3400s just fine. Real good all around size, acceptable good power, etc. Easy to work on.

What gets me is they work with an unlined cylinder. You'd think it would wear out in 30 seconds with the iron rings rubbing on it, but they don't. I know the piston is chromed but I still don't get it how this is possible. Normally, any other saw, once the cylinder is down to bare aluminum showing it is toast, even with just a small amount of the plating gone, you can't use it. This model starts with bare aluminum and it works fine.
 
I'm liking the 3400s just fine. Real good all around size, acceptable good power, etc. Easy to work on.

What gets me is they work with an unlined cylinder. You'd think it would wear out in 30 seconds with the iron rings rubbing on it, but they don't. I know the piston is chromed but I still don't get it how this is possible. Normally, any other saw, once the cylinder is down to bare aluminum showing it is toast, even with just a small amount of the plating gone, you can't use it. This model starts with bare aluminum and it works fine.

Hey Mark, thats not just any ol aluminum its alumasil , even my old 1980 and 1981 B&S 3HP Classics are still goin strong thanks to Castrol 30wt.
 
Zogger, I wish I was closer to you. I would buy some of that beef that you were supposed to split. I would also also bring by my biggest saw(although it probably isn't big enough for your project) to help knock that tree down. Unfortunately, my 4000 is the largest I have right now, and I would have to pick up Modifiedmark and his saws on the way and he wouldn't ride in my car down the street, let alone 4 states away.

Nick
 
Poulan 375 rpm's

What's about right on the WOT rpm's for these 3400, 375 saws. Tach'd my 375 this weekend and it sounded pretty good at 11,700. Should this be about right or what? Just trying to learn to trust my ear.
 
Zogger, I wish I was closer to you. I would buy some of that beef that you were supposed to split. I would also also bring by my biggest saw(although it probably isn't big enough for your project) to help knock that tree down. Unfortunately, my 4000 is the largest I have right now, and I would have to pick up Modifiedmark and his saws on the way and he wouldn't ride in my car down the street, let alone 4 states away.

Nick


Seems you think you know me. I would gladly let you pick me up on the way down there and I would gladly let a couple of my bigger saws ride in your car. In the back seat leaking oil all over it. :ices_rofl:


(just kidding)

What's about right on the WOT rpm's for these 3400, 375 saws. Tach'd my 375 this weekend and it sounded pretty good at 11,700. Should this be about right or what? Just trying to learn to trust my ear.

Dont know what its supposed to be for free revs. Not sure I ever seen a listing for it. Put the tach away, tune it by ear WOT then tune it again in the wood. If you really want to know what the WOT RPM should be, you can then tach it.
 
Hey Mark, thats not just any ol aluminum its alumasil , even my old 1980 and 1981 B&S 3HP Classics are still goin strong thanks to Castrol 30wt.


I could not find any information on alumasil alloy but did on alusil. I was wondering if that is what you are referring to. In any case regular aluminium would be to soft and would not last like these 3400's do.
 
I'm liking the 3400s just fine. Real good all around size, acceptable good power, etc. Easy to work on.

What gets me is they work with an unlined cylinder. You'd think it would wear out in 30 seconds with the iron rings rubbing on it, but they don't. I know the piston is chromed but I still don't get it how this is possible. Normally, any other saw, once the cylinder is down to bare aluminum showing it is toast, even with just a small amount of the plating gone, you can't use it. This model starts with bare aluminum and it works fine.




That part isn't really completely correct!

You would be amazed how many saws are out there dutifully running and cutting wood on a regular basis with cylinders that would have the majority of the "saw experts" around here clutching their chests and flopping on the floor like a fish!!!!!

A cylinder doesn't have to be perfect to make power....it only has to be perfect to make ultimate power.
Don't lose sight of the fact that it is just an air pump.


Mike
 
ultrasonic cleaner

any of ya all have ultrasonic cleaners for carbs? if so do ya have the dental ones or the HF cheap ones? i would only need it for one carb at a time was curious if the HF one worked and if so how well it worked . thank you.
 
Yes I have two ultrasonic cleaners made by L&R. One is just big enough for carbs and the other one is big enough to put a cylinder in. I have never used one of the HF ones. I have had these now for years and bought them used from a jeweler that retired.
 
Zogger, I wish I was closer to you. I would buy some of that beef that you were supposed to split. I would also also bring by my biggest saw(although it probably isn't big enough for your project) to help knock that tree down. Unfortunately, my 4000 is the largest I have right now, and I would have to pick up Modifiedmark and his saws on the way and he wouldn't ride in my car down the street, let alone 4 states away.

Nick


Ha! I'll get that thing down one way or the other. Red oak, it ain't going anywhere real soon. The trunk is just a tad smaller than the monstah red oak in the yard next to it. If I remember tomorrow I'll put a tape to it. I don't even have the last two giant branch stubs off that thing cut up yet, they are laying at the base of it. I just the other day axed off the moss and took a broom to the dirt under that. It was like two inches deep sod!

I think I am gonna nail those chunks with a pressure washer first before I go to sawing on them. They are mambo beefy chunks. I have another recent 3400 restore, I might try that on them, after a warmup/dial-in cord of smaller stuff.

Beef...ya...forced to eat twice as much young tender grass fed....I am so bummed...not! And oh drat...lookit all this unburnt leftover from the mild winter hickory I have....hmmmm....I smell a tasty plan coming together now.....

Sometimes an unexpected expense has a silver lining!
 
any of ya all have ultrasonic cleaners for carbs? if so do ya have the dental ones or the HF cheap ones? i would only need it for one carb at a time was curious if the HF one worked and if so how well it worked . thank you.

I bought the small HF one. Ive done 3 carbs so far. Very happy with the results. I plan on buying one of the bigger better units Ive seen on ebay but I wanted to try the small cheap one first. The only problem with the small HF one is a very short cycle time (maybe 3 minutes), I cycle it 7 or 8 times. The tank on mine is stainless with a removable parts basket and light. I use a cup of hot water and some simple green. When Its done I give them a quick shot of carb cleaner then dry them over night on paper towels. I did it to my 2.3 micro, 3700 and 335. All run very well.
 
any of ya all have ultrasonic cleaners for carbs? if so do ya have the dental ones or the HF cheap ones? i would only need it for one carb at a time was curious if the HF one worked and if so how well it worked . thank you.

I have one made by SDA, model: UC-32D. It will fit a cylinder and I clean everything metal off a saw in it. It has a heater (I use about 30c setting, sometimes 35c. Cycle time increments up to 1/2 hour. Wife gave it to me as a birthday present last year (it cleans her jewlery quite nicely if you need an extra excuse...). Works very well, an yes I put carbs in it but only with new solution mix (simple green and water).
 
That part isn't really completely correct!

You would be amazed how many saws are out there dutifully running and cutting wood on a regular basis with cylinders that would have the majority of the "saw experts" around here clutching their chests and flopping on the floor like a fish!!!!!

A cylinder doesn't have to be perfect to make power....it only has to be perfect to make ultimate power.
Don't lose sight of the fact that it is just an air pump.


Mike

I thought if there was chips or flakes gone from above the exhaust port it was no good, trash it? That's the status of my echo cylinder and at over 150 for a cylinder and close to 60 for a piston set, it's staying in that condition.

I cleaned it once, with the acid and sandpaper, that's how I found the missing plating, started bubbling bad. I quick rinsed it off with water. Then went to just sanding. Put in a new ring after also sanding smooth (kinda sorta) the piston and it ran for like two cuts then quit again. Fast disassembly to take a look, back to smeared galled cylinder. It sits like that now.

I wonder now if just a totally new piston and reclean the cylinder might work. A piston I can swing now, the whole deal, nope, need that freezer, proly a used one.
But..it has some lost plating for sure. I'd hate to trash a 60 buck piston on that, or have chips of stuff get down into the crankcase.

Has there ever been ANY successful attempts to patch small areas of lost plating, with any super duper like space program certified type epoxy anything? I know you can have a cylinder honed out and replated, etc, that's only for antiques or like expensive cycles etc. not worth it on a relatively cheap common saw, cost more than a new one anyway.

I just can't help but think there must be some sort of advanced chemistry out there with a metallic embedded epoxy, for real small cylinder patches. I went looking awhile back, best I found was oil and gas resistant, 1,000 F temp resistant, some shock resistant stuff. 40 bucks for a real small amount. Has to be heat cured in an oven.

Oh, found this easily enough

Alusil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That explains how the 3400s and cousins can work. If it was all through the casting, the whole cylinder, you'd only need a slight honing or good bore job and oversize rings for a rebuild! Must be expensive and about like nikasil plating. thin, real dang thin.
 

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