Nik's Poulan Thread

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DSCN2119.JPG DSCN2120.JPG Thanks Steve, will do that. Just needed a second opinion.

Engine , is this what your asking about . I'll try to keep this brief . I'll probably catch the devil for posting this. It did work for me.

Imagine that wrist pin up inside the piston . 10-24 thread rod to use as a long jack screw. Looking from right to left . Right side of piston 10-24 jam nut with 10-24 rod coupling nut to extract or pull wrist pin. Then comes extracted wrist pin . Left side of piston . 13 mm deep well socket so extracted pin has a place to go . Then comes two 3/16ths fender washers and two 10-24 flat washers followed by another 10-24 rod coupling nut . The washers help keep things centered when your trying to pull on that wrist pin. The other stuff in the pic was the tools to keep the piston steady and a 5/16th's wrench to crank the pin out.

Please read this . I didn't use that rod coupling nut on the right side to completely pull the pin out . I only got it started with that nut. I put another wrist pin of similar size ahead of that nut . If I was to do this over and didn't have an old wrist pin I would use two rod coupling nuts and grind those corners down so they would be round instead of octagon shape . The idea of pulling that threw the piston didn't appeal to me at all.

Just keep in mind that as the wrist pin is existing whatever is pulling it out is going to enter the connecting rod . The second pic shows that a 10-24 rod coupling nut will go through easy enough if pulled straight but a shape other than something round may damage the inside of the connecting rod.

If anyone is interested I did find a wristpin puller /press /installer with some adapters very similar to Poulan tool in the service manual Mr. Benson so graciously provided. If I was to cannibalize my POS wrist pin puller I would do it like the one I found . I did order it even though I got my little task done without it but I am going to be doing this again because another very clean Poulan 3400 came my way from a member here but it is going to need a different top end . Poulan # 1 is just a trial run so to speak.

I would post a link but I don't want to get in trouble because they are not vendors here on the site and I really don't want to endorse something I haven't actually seen or tried out yet. In addition to this wristpin thing they also have other chainsaw stuff that is kind of hard to find .

This Poulan piston thing is a first for me but that is ok. I am also over budget on this little saw project but that is ok also . I dumped one of my oddball saws over the weekend to buffer the cost of trying to get a running 3700 Poulan.
 
Thanks, I was going to bug you but didn't want to be an internet pest for some tips on how to do this because the first attempts didn't go good at all . Let's not go there :lol: I got it figured out after doing some searching and a few you tube vids on pulling a wrist pin.

I got a few more little parts coming in but we are good to go once they arrive.
 
That looks like something me and my brother made up to pull the wrist pins in the ones I rebuilt. Instead on a socket, we took a piece of pipe, cut to length and cut one side to fit the piston. Then welded a flat plate on the other end with a hole drilled dead center. Took a threaded rod and welded a nut on and ground it round to fit through the piston bearings. Put a bearing on the other end with a washer and nut. Bearing made it easier to turn the nut when under pressure. When I installed the pin, stuck it in the freezer for an hour then heated up the rod. Oiled up the bearings and pressed pin back in. Was easier installing that way to me. Wished I had chilled the pin on the first on it did.

Steve Sidwell
 
Anyone know how to tell when or which S25DA used the black plastic spacer or heat isolator under the carb?

There must have been a handle/carb box casing or maybe a top cover change?

I tried to put a box of parts saw together, and there was not enough room for it, even though it was in the pile of parts.
 
Anyone know how to tell when or which S25DA used the black plastic spacer or heat isolator under the carb?

There must have been a handle/carb box casing or maybe a top cover change?

I tried to put a box of parts saw together, and there was not enough room for it, even though it was in the pile of parts.

Its not on the 74 IPL but is in the 77 IPL . I don't have a 75 or 76 IPL. I think I remember seeing a note about that change, might have been in a service bulletin . I don't have a lot of that type stuff scanned, have to dig through it sometime. I think your right though that it was a handle change.
 
View attachment 764300 View attachment 764301 Thanks Steve, will do that. Just needed a second opinion.

Engine , is this what your asking about . I'll try to keep this brief . I'll probably catch the devil for posting this. It did work for me.

Imagine that wrist pin up inside the piston . 10-24 thread rod to use as a long jack screw. Looking from right to left . Right side of piston 10-24 jam nut with 10-24 rod coupling nut to extract or pull wrist pin. Then comes extracted wrist pin . Left side of piston . 13 mm deep well socket so extracted pin has a place to go . Then comes two 3/16ths fender washers and two 10-24 flat washers followed by another 10-24 rod coupling nut . The washers help keep things centered when your trying to pull on that wrist pin. The other stuff in the pic was the tools to keep the piston steady and a 5/16th's wrench to crank the pin out.

Please read this . I didn't use that rod coupling nut on the right side to completely pull the pin out . I only got it started with that nut. I put another wrist pin of similar size ahead of that nut . If I was to do this over and didn't have an old wrist pin I would use two rod coupling nuts and grind those corners down so they would be round instead of octagon shape . The idea of pulling that threw the piston didn't appeal to me at all.

Just keep in mind that as the wrist pin is existing whatever is pulling it out is going to enter the connecting rod . The second pic shows that a 10-24 rod coupling nut will go through easy enough if pulled straight but a shape other than something round may damage the inside of the connecting rod.

If anyone is interested I did find a wristpin puller /press /installer with some adapters very similar to Poulan tool in the service manual Mr. Benson so graciously provided. If I was to cannibalize my POS wrist pin puller I would do it like the one I found . I did order it even though I got my little task done without it but I am going to be doing this again because another very clean Poulan 3400 came my way from a member here but it is going to need a different top end . Poulan # 1 is just a trial run so to speak.

I would post a link but I don't want to get in trouble because they are not vendors here on the site and I really don't want to endorse something I haven't actually seen or tried out yet. In addition to this wristpin thing they also have other chainsaw stuff that is kind of hard to find .

This Poulan piston thing is a first for me but that is ok. I am also over budget on this little saw project but that is ok also . I dumped one of my oddball saws over the weekend to buffer the cost of trying to get a running 3700 Poulan.

Dont sweat installing that wrist pin. Just heat the small rod end with a propane torch then quickly mount the piston and push the pin in by hand. Just like a small block Chevy.
 
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