Nik's Poulan Thread

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I miss spoke on the cost of the kit and what I spent on it. Right at $350, $400 if ya count the case/bearing tool. That was 40 itself. Hope to make this 372 clone, Poulan 4000, and 3000 as my go to firewood saws. If by chance I get into really big trees, then the 5200 and 385xp will come into play. ;)
 
I run efree so just always assumed all the oem echo line was great from what I see. But my stuff dont see ethanol.

Hadn’t seen this 60cc poulan 3500 since April 2017. Sold it to local.
Not bad 6 years before he needed checked.
Typical water in mix and carb fastener loose.
Ready to go back to work.

Echo black oem line still like new even in the crap ethanol gas he runs. 6 years now Still limber as heck no hardening etc etc.

p3500c.jpg
 
I'm not sure if its a sandcast or not, but I can't hardly find pictures of them with a Google search, let alone parts for them.
https://www.acresinternet.com/cscc....d825a057e1de4b6e88256b3500193033?OpenDocument
CONSTRUCTION:​
ecblank.gif
Sand cast aluminum
 
If you search www. chainsaw collectors website several poulan 62 in pics. Also 3 pages on them in different threads beside the library.


http://www.chainsaw collectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=221144&hilit=poulan+62#p221144

The link is broken on purpose. Just put the w c back together for poulan 62 search I did there. Otherwise link gets blocked. @FixIt20
 
I’ve been chasing a problem with my 3000. It will be running quite well then I would get a little lean surge that would go right away. I finally found it is leaking from the intake boot where it goes over the cylinder. Boot is a new Proline & my metal band is tightened all the way. I’m really not sure what to do so I would appreciate any input.
It is a good saw when running right.
034B7B9F-BBF5-4A58-8500-C5AA46E8433F.jpeg
 
I’ve been chasing a problem with my 3000. It will be running quite well then I would get a little lean surge that would go right away. I finally found it is leaking from the intake boot where it goes over the cylinder. Boot is a new Proline & my metal band is tightened all the way. I’m really not sure what to do so I would appreciate any input.
It is a good saw when running right.
View attachment 1092066

You can take some Yamabond or other quality sealant and glue it directly to the cylinder before you clamp it down.
 
You can take some Yamabond or other quality sealant and glue it directly to the cylinder before you clamp it down.
That's probably a better plan. I was thinking some kind of tape with heat resistance. Electrical tape may work initially to prove its the problem. Maybe a different clamp?
Edit to add: make a lot of wraps to take up space clamp covers
 
Got a 306a I can sell if I can get it sorted out. Got and rebuilt it in ‘12. Installed new seals at same time. Used it a few times then set it on the shelf since then. Again rebuilt carb in ‘19.
Wouldn’t start so again rebuilt the carb, a tillotson HS59a, again with all new parts. Now it starts and runs like a scalded dog until I try to let it idle. Then it dies
Set H to 1-1/4 and L to 1; set throttle idle to
~1 turn after contacting throttle lever.
Saw compression is 120+
Noticed some fuel, very little like with reed valve spit back, in carb box..
What am I missing?
TIA, jerry
 

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