Not cutting straight - Replace Bar?

[AT sawyer]

possible 50 cent solution

I hear this complaint a lot. If the problem's not your bar and you're not an experienced filer, make this tool and check the length of all your teeth. Don't eyeball it. Use a nylon core stop nut with the nylon drilled out -- enough will remain to allow the nut to be turned by hand.

Find the shortest tooth and sharpen it. Adjust the nut so the space between the nut and the bolt head is just snug when placed over the short sharp tooth. File all other teeth to the same length, using the tool as a gauge. Finally, using a filing gauge, cut down all the depth gauges to the same height. You are done. If that chain still cuts crooked, look for another cause.

View attachment 206595

 

[In The Weeds]

Thanks AT, that looks like a tool that I can actually afford :msp_tongue:

 

[fearofpavement]

That bolt/nut tool looks like a handy gauge but I don't agree that tooth length makes a saw cut an arc. I am using a chain right now on one of my saws that has all sorts of length of teeth on it and is probably missing three teeth completely. It does not cut in an arc after I sharpen it. Every time I have had a chainsaw cut curved, it was due to it being dull on one side from striking an object. I can see where a worn bar could cause it but if the chain was perfect it seems the cuts would be random and not consistently to one side or the other. I'm sure the OP will get it narrowed down.

 

[AT sawyer]

That stop nut gauge is just a carry-over from my crosscut saw filing experience. When all teeth are filed and set exactly the same way, all rakers (depth gauges) cut to the exact same height and the blade (bar) is straight and true, the saw will cut better (obviously). Not everything I do with a crosscut is applicable to chainsaws, but there is some legacy between the generations.

 

[pyro2]

I agree the chain is not perfect. But it's still pretty sharp in my in-experienced opinion. Note, the pics were taken after about 1 hour of cutting after I sharpened. I just can't believe that after I sharpen it the best that I can (I use the filing gauge with the angle marks on it) that it will barely go through a 10" piece of wood. If there is any pressure on the wood at all the angle it tries to cut is so servere it basically binds up and you can't get the saw through anymore. It just runs and then spits out fine sawdust. I have to put a ton of pressure on the saw to get through. But when I start, I get those nice big chunks of wood chips. That is how I usually judge a chain's sharpness, although I agree it won't tell you the symmetry of the cutters.

I will report back probably next weekend with what I find as the cause.

 

[lone wolf]

For some strange reason, my old chains keep cutting well until the cutters are almost gone. You gotta set the raker depth right no matter how much metal you take off the cutters.

If you want to get rid of those old worthless non cutting chains, PM me - I might take em off your hands.

Interesting how are you sharpening them?

 

[J.W Younger]

I agree the chain is not perfect. But it's still pretty sharp in my in-experienced opinion. Note, the pics were taken after about 1 hour of cutting after I sharpened. I just can't believe that after I sharpen it the best that I can (I use the filing gauge with the angle marks on it) that it will barely go through a 10" piece of wood. If there is any pressure on the wood at all the angle it tries to cut is so servere it basically binds up and you can't get the saw through anymore. It just runs and then spits out fine sawdust. I have to put a ton of pressure on the saw to get through. But when I start, I get those nice big chunks of wood chips. That is how I usually judge a chain's sharpness, although I agree it won't tell you the symmetry of the cutters.

I will report back probably next weekend with what I find as the cause.

Just remember, a chain can be sharp and still not cut. The point has to be filed or ground back where it contacts the wood 1st. Also a loose chain or worn bar can make it compound the problem. A straight edge placed aganist a cutter should have some gap, if it does'nt the bar needs to be replaced or the rails closed.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Interesting how are you sharpening them?

As stated, as long as the rakers are set correctly it will cut basically like a new one. If you hit a lot of stuff or take a lot of stock off the teeth you MUST adjust the raker. Sometimes with normal wear you can get away without doing it but I still check them. We have some of the old metal guides from Oregon that have different depths on them for what you want to set them at. If you have a bigger saw you can set them a little deeper for a more aggressive cut but your saw may become "grabby" in the process.

When My Dad went to an Oregon workshop years ago they said chains CAN cut as good as a new one when properly sharpened. I'm a firm believer in that as I too gladly take others "junk" chains. I have one guy that will sharpen once and buy new. I recylce them for him

I guess I'm spoiled as We are still using a Nielson 700B sharpener my Grandpa bought over 60 years ago when He had the first Homelite dealership in our area. Dad still likes to hand file in the field but I normally take a few extra chains along. Dad says you go through chains quicker grinding every time, and he is right. I'm lazy though I tease him that I'm here to saw, not to file!

Dad also keeps a chain on one of his little XL's that might interest some. We got a spool that had one tooth side that was evidently hardened too much. They would break off with about 50% life left. The saw in question has about 1/2 the teeth missing on one side, the other side had all the teeth present. The interesting thing is, it still saws straight with NO curve and is amazing close to the speed of a complete chain.

 

[lfnh]

I will report back probably next weekend with what I find as the cause.

Pyro - any progress on getting the 268 cutting right ?