Novice chainsaw questions

[Pithound]

Hey guys,

I am very big into smoking meats, BBQ and have tons of White Oak that I like to use. I picked up a little 14" electric chainsaw. I am using bar/chain oil. I only use the saw to cut split logs into chunk sizes. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some maintenance advice. I am not so good with sharpening... I plan on using the saw maybe once a month to cut maybe a total of 20 split logs.

1. Should i drain the oil when not in use? This seems like a hassle and would like to avoid if possible.
2. Should i try to sharpen the blade on my own or just replace it when it gets bad? If so, how often am I going to have to replace it? The oak is REALLY hard wood.
3. I have been putting the wood on the ground, putting pressure to hold it down with my left foot, then cutting the chunks off on the right side. Any advice would be great, thanks!

 

[Brian VT]

Sharpen the chain yourself. It's not hard. Visit Oregon chain website or Stihl, etc.
Get, or make, a sawhorse. Holding with your foot can be dangerous.

 

[woodbooga]

Hey guys,

I am very big into smoking meats, BBQ and have tons of White Oak that I like to use. I picked up a little 14" electric chainsaw. I am using bar/chain oil. I only use the saw to cut split logs into chunk sizes. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some maintenance advice. I am not so good with sharpening... I plan on using the saw maybe once a month to cut maybe a total of 20 split logs.

1. Should i drain the oil when not in use? This seems like a hassle and would like to avoid if possible.
2. Should i try to sharpen the blade on my own or just replace it when it gets bad? If so, how often am I going to have to replace it? The oak is REALLY hard wood.
3. I have been putting the wood on the ground, putting pressure to hold it down with my left foot, then cutting the chunks off on the right side. Any advice would be great, thanks!

Based on what you're saying, I suspect that you're hitting the dirt when you're making your cuts. This will dullen a chain real fast. And white oak is dense wood.

There's a lot of good advice on chainsharpening here in other threads.

 

[SteveH]

Since you are using the wood for cooking, you can use vegetable oil for the chain instead of regular bar oil. I doubt you will have any problem with the regular oil, but if you do you can switch. Do a search on the forum here for advice [cannola, etc.]

If you learn to sharpen the chain, you can use it a long time. If you don't hit a nail or rock, you may well get years out of it the way you use it.

If you don't want to learn to sharpen, you can have it done for probably $6 or so for that 14" chain. Maybe a couple bucks more. Depending on the prices in your area, a 14" replacement chain will probably run between $12 and $18. Guessing....

Files to sharpen the chain yourself go maybe three files for $4.

Build a simple sawhorse for cutting the logs to keep them off the ground. Or, at least block them up with a couple pieces of the tree so that you don't get the chain in the dirt. A sawhorse keeps the saw away from your foot and leg.

You don't need to empty the bar oil out of the saw. If you go to vegetable oil, you don't want to leave it in there for months, you'd need to pour it out. I haven't used it, I've only read about it here on the forum, so I'm passing on info' not from personal experience..... Some people empty out the regular bar oil if they set their saw aside for months and months. I don't, myself.

 

[Pithound]

I agree that standing on the log is pretty dangerous, just don't really know how to go about building a cutting horse that will allow me to cut such small chunks off while still holding it securely.

 

[Brian VT]

Here's a neat product that might work well for you.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730

 

[husqvarmit]

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SB1500&catID=

varmit

 

[Pithound]

Ok, now that device looks like it is something I need big time for my foot/leg's sake! I will look into using veggie oil in my saw and sharpening it myself. I think I should get this device before I try another sawing... i like my foot!

 

[striperswaper]

for the amount of wood your cutting sounds like you could cut "V" notches in two parallel logs and put the log you are cutting in the "V" save your foot and your chain

 

[Pithound]

Problem is, these logs are really small. They are already split, maybe 14" inches long. I basically just want to create 2" chunks out of these split ones. The log holder is cool, but needs 10" of log to hold I read, which leaves me only getting 1-2 chunks per log.

 

[striperswaper]

how about adapting a stanley workmate, using it as a big clamp?

 

[TRI955]

Sounds like you might be better off with a good hatchet......

 

[Pithound]

I originally was able to split this Oak with the grain, but cutting against the grain on this stuff is near impossible without a motor. Its VERY dry and VERY tough

 

[Brian VT]

Definately dangerous holding those short sticks with your foot.
Maybe you want something like this ? (Don't cut left-handed, though)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rxVn6ap0QI
Or maybe an electric radial arm, mitre, or bandsaw would be better/safer for what you're doing ?

 

[woodbooga]

Problem is, these logs are really small. They are already split, maybe 14" inches long. I basically just want to create 2" chunks out of these split ones. The log holder is cool, but needs 10" of log to hold I read, which leaves me only getting 1-2 chunks per log.

In that case, get yourself a chop saw. Occasionally, I get free pre-split firewood that's too long for my stoves firebox. I set those pieces aside and zing off a couple inches off from the end.

If you have no other application for it, you can get a cheap low end Ryobi for $100 at Home Depot.

 

[Pithound]

The idea of a Miter saw is sounding better and better... Does anyone know if I would experience any crazy kickback from using natural hard oak in one of those? Thanks!

 

[Brian VT]

The blade rotation of a mitre saw pulls the wood away from you, into the back stop.
They also come with clamps to hold the wood to the backstop so you don't need your hands on the wood while cutting.
The clamp might be tough to use with triangle-shaped splits, though.
I think I'd prefer a bandsaw for what you're doing. Not as fast, but I'd feel comfortable cutting a 4" chunk into two 2" chunks with one.
Too bad you're not near me. I've got a small bandsaw that's gathering dust.

 

[husqvarmit]

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SB1500&catID=
another style by log rite

varmit

 

[flewism]

i don't now what size chunks you are cutting, mine are about 3" cubes. I grab some large stove size splits and split them about 3" by 3" and then use my miter saw to finish the chunks.
safe and easy

 

[Pithound]

2-3" inches is exactly what I am going for... I think I will put up a miter saw... do the blades on a miter saw need sharpening a great deal? They don't use oil correct? Thanks!