A properly wired transfer switch is of course the best setup for a disconnect. That said I used to backfeed through my welder plug when needed without incident. You MUST of course throw the main breaker on your service panel BEFORE connecting the unit. Then upon shut down, disconnect the cord BEFORE turning the main back on.
If you would fail to throw the main you can feed back through the lines possibly injuring a repairman. That would be very bad for the repairman and you after the power company finds you. Failure to disconnect the unit and turning the main back on after the power is back up with blow up your generator.
My current backup generator is a 6500 watt Kubota diesel. Runs my whole house. I do not have electric heat, hot water, or stove though. I never have to worry about the fuel going bad or if I have fuel as I have 2 275 gallon fuel oil tanks to draw from. Also being a diesel it is much more fuel effecient than a gas unit. Plus being a commercial quality unit it is built to run for thousands of hours meaning it should be the last generator I will ever have to buy.
One thing that has to be considered is the cost of producing all those KWs that simply cannot be lived without. Some local folks used to laugh at my "tiny" E generator while they had the whole house lit up with their 15KW super magnum bla bla bla,,, until the power was out for a solid week here after the Ohio hurricane about two years ago now. 1 gallon per hour x 24 x $3 adds up quickly and some of the big gasoline gennys have no problem eating a gallon per hour. Here is my generator, a Lister CS copy Metro diesel making 6HP at 650 RPM and belted to a 5KW ST generator head. The engine wont pull 5KW about 3KW is max but more than enough to keep our heat going, the freezer frozen, the well pump pumping and enough lights for two old folks. While using just over a pint an hour of diesel fuel, waste oil or about what ever flammable liquid that is handy. We have about $2200 in it as you see it but the engines have gone up since our EPA friends decided they dont meet tier 3 requirements and banned them from import.
Our genny
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For a more detailed discussion on generator grounding/bonding, search that subject on www.mikeholt.com
That is an electrical contractor/NEC website.
There's quite a bit of confusion and misinformation regarding generators, grounding and transfer switches in this thread. For one a generator can be set up as a separately derived system where is the transfer switch will disconnect the grounded conductor (neutral) from the system. If it doesn't disconnect the grounded conductor it is not called a separately derived system. Either installation (switched neutral or non-switched neutral) is acceptable and which one that you choose it's really a design issue. Even with a switched neutral all of the components of the system would remain bonded together whether or not you were on grid power or generator power.
Also the 2008 NEC requires that a generator setup with an automatic transfer switch must be sized for the entire connected load unless you have an automatic load shedding device. This prohibits you from manually switching off individual loads with a circuit breaker to keep the generator from being overloaded.
Lot's of good information there but you'll need to be in the electrical field to post there. You can always browse through old threads.
I forgot to mention about Mike Holt's website...if you register, and ask DIY questions, you will get booted off...lotsa other good websites for that purpose.
There's quite a bit of confusion and misinformation regarding generators, grounding and transfer switches in this thread. For one a generator can be set up as a separately derived system where is the transfer switch will disconnect the grounded conductor (neutral) from the system. If it doesn't disconnect the grounded conductor it is not called a separately derived system. Either installation (switched neutral or non-switched neutral) is acceptable and which one that you choose it's really a design issue. Even with a switched neutral all of the components of the system would remain bonded together whether or not you were on grid power or generator power.
Also the 2008 NEC requires that a generator setup with an automatic transfer switch must be sized for the entire connected load unless you have an automatic load shedding device. This prohibits you from manually switching off individual loads with a circuit breaker to keep the generator from being overloaded.
Lot's of good information there but you'll need to be in the electrical field to post there. You can always browse through old threads.
On another site I posted what you wrote in this thread. It started a war. You are the first that I've seen post this information and I agree with you. Thank you for posting this. After I got blasted on that site I just sit back and read this one but had to give you a pat on the back for what you wrote. Confusion and misinformation cause a lot of folks to spend a lot of $$$$$$. I've tested hookups both ways and the VOM meter don't lie.
Thank you again.
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