OK to hand tighten clutch after sprocket swap?

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Keithandstef

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I'm switching my rig to a .325 set up. I used a piston stop (tooth brush) to loosen the clutch on my Husqvarna. When re installing (spinning to the left) I don't need to use the piston stop as there is some resistance in that direction (not sure why actually). Anyway, can I just give it a gentle wrench tightening and let the sawing do the rest? Thanks.
 
Assuming that the clutch threaded on smoothly, the resistance is due to piston compression. Normal.

Mount the bar, chain, and clutch cover and run the saw. ***Do not run the saw without the bar, chain, and clutch cover installed, until the clutch has had time to tighten up a bit from normal use*** (or you could get an unpleasant surprise).

Philbert
 
Isn't the resistance because the starter chord is being made tighter. I pull out a foot or so of starter chord and use the piston stop. At one point on here I said not making it real tight often it loosened up trying to make oil fly off the end of the bar. I do not recall anything but doubters commenting but full speed and chain brake was mentioned as well. I am happy using the official piston stop from the parts sheet and about the amount of force it took to get it off. I have used string, chord, thin rope in the spark plug hole and on top of the piston at times. I would not use the starter assembly to hold the crank. If it does loosen up bumping into the clutch cover makes it thread back towards where it belongs.
 
Thanks all. Appreciate the info as always. I expect the resistance when tightening is (as noted above) is the starter cord resistance. Duh. Sometimes the obvious has to be pointed out to me on this stuff. Thanks for being gentle.
 
***Do not run the saw without the bar, chain, and clutch cover installed, until the clutch has had time to tighten up a bit from normal use*** (or you could get an unpleasant surprise).

Philbert speaks the truth. I shot a clutch down the driveway, across road, into neighbor's flower bed. Found all the parts, though!
 
On some clutch can be put in backwards, does not thread to end and feels hard to turn in, turned other face out and screws in easily and I learned something right there, face with text belongs to outside, it's hard to read if text is facing inside :)
 
You actually don't want to tighten or torque them down any tighter than the saw can get it or it'll be almost impossible getting it off for the next sprocket change.
 
You actually don't want to tighten or torque them down any tighter than the saw can get it or it'll be almost impossible getting it off for the next sprocket change.

Haven't had one not come off yet. Have to be careful with hammer and punch though, can snap off the crank. (Yup... have that shirt)
 
On some clutch can be put in backwards, does not thread to end and feels hard to turn in, turned other face out and screws in easily and I learned something right there, face with text belongs to outside, it's hard to read if text is facing inside :)
I like the way Stihl does it by building in the big nut to tighten/loosen it with, hard to get that one on backward unless you try.
 
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