Open port 2065 base delete..

[Adam08ski]

Anyone know without me actually going through the hassle of popping the cylinder off whether I can delete the base gasket. Is there room, so they have an excessive squish like the 372xp’s.. I am happy to measure etc just wanted to check if there is room without popping it all apart if it’s a lost cause..

Thanks guys!

 

[NPKenny]

Anyone know without me actually going through the hassle of popping the cylinder off whether I can delete the base gasket. Is there room, so they have an excessive squish like the 372xp’s.. I am happy to measure etc just wanted to check if there is room without popping it all apart if it’s a lost cause..

Thanks guys!

For a quick and dirty ball park you can place two long pieces of solder through the spark plug hole, 180* apart and measure the squish. Make sure they reach the perimeter of the cylinder and don't enter a port. Pull the starter, remove your solder, and measure the squish area.

I wouldn't build a saw this way since you need to pull the cylinder anyway, but it will answer your question.

 

[Adam08ski]

For a quick and dirty ball park you can place two long pieces of solder through the spark plug hole, 180* apart and measure the squish. Make sure they reach the perimeter of the cylinder and don't enter a port. Pull the starter, remove your solder, and measure the squish area.

I wouldn't build a saw this way since you need to pull the cylinder anyway, but it will answer your question.

I'm with you on that one. Was just being lazy. Ah well need some solder. Will think I will wait till I have time to get my 550xp back together before I pull the top of this. I need at least one saw running in my life.

 

[wyk]

I ported a 365open port not long ago. With the base delete, it managed 170+ psi. It responded very well to porting.

 

[Adam08ski]

I ported a 365open port not long ago. With the base delete, it managed 170+ psi. It responded very well to porting.

I have heard they run strong for an open port. So what kinda porting did you do? Match the lowers, intake exhaust, yadda yadda..

 

[wyk]

I just flowed the bottom end a bit, but didn't go too crazy so as not to lose too much flow/pressure. Opened up the exhaust, but left the timing the same, added a few degrees to the top of the transfers, and added a few degrees of intake and width, and beveled the edges of the bottom xfer opening to match the chassis. Just a mild port job.

 

[wyk]

I searched my vids and found the saw. Turns out I was confused, it was a Jonsered 2165 after all. Here it is in unseasoned beech:

 

[wyk]

This is my mercury compression gauge. It's usually 5psi optimistic compared to my other gauges, but its just so easy to use:

 

[Adam08ski]

I searched my vids and found the saw. Turns out I was confused, it was a Jonsered 2165 after all. Here it is in unseasoned beech:

Same jug though just different tensioner at the front I think. Port work sounds nice. I am going to pull this apart as it has so much potential..

 

[Adam08ski]

Opened up the exhaust

How did you do this (assuming yours is a European jungle muffler) with a single port tube off to the side

 

[Big_Wood]

How did you do this (assuming yours is a European jungle muffler) with a single port tube off to the side

i'm sure he was talking opening up the exhaust port when he ported it. the jug he pictured is a 2065 jug. yours will be closed port being a 2165. the muffler is the easiest part and open to your imagination. anything your capable of is what that muffler can be. can do everything from punching holes in it with nails (hack job), drilling holes (farmer) to welding on custom deflectors. (builder) lol

 

[Adam08ski]

i'm sure he was talking opening up the exhaust port when he ported it. the jug he pictured is a 2065 jug. yours will be closed port being a 2165. the muffler is the easiest part and open to your imagination. anything your capable of is what that muffler can be. can do everything from punching holes in it with nails (hack job), drilling holes (farmer) to welding on custom deflectors. (builder) lol

Mines a open port 2065.
I’m going to open a hole beneath the bracket. It will be discreet. Then I will look at how to improve the flow between the case and cylinder and delete the gasket.

 

[Big_Wood]

Ah I see, was reindeer who had the 2165. He’s either got a real early one or the jugs been swapped. I’m not gonna say no specials got the open port top end but I’ve never seen one.

 

[Adam08ski]

Ah I see, was reindeer who had the 2165. He’s either got a real early one or the jugs been swapped. I’m not gonna say no specials got the open port top end but I’ve never seen one.

Knowing Jonservarna’s track record there probably was an overlap into the specials.. haha

 

[wyk]

It's not a husqvarna 365 special in the video and the images. That was an older model open port Jonsered 2165.

As for muffler mods, in my experience, the closer the openings are to the cylinder exhaust port, the bigger the benefits are to a muffler mod. But that's a rather general rule. In the past on my personal 372's, I have two openings in the first half of the muffler that are pointing forwards. But using the bracket on a 70cc huskereds is a very typical and effective way to muff mod them. This is typically what I do if it is a client's saw:

Here's an example of a muffler port close to the exhaust port on my 281XP - yes, it is ridiculously loud. But it also made a massive difference. It is within maybe 1.5" of the exhaust port: