Opinions on the Husqvarna 455

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There's a fellow on this site who doesn't care for Stihls in general, and 290s particularly. He cannot resist chiming in to bash the 290 whenever someone mentions it.

I am becoming his opposite, the yang to his yin. Or the other way around, whichever is cooler. Whatever.

Stihl warranty is fine, but some dealers sure suck. Stihl doubles their warranty if you buy their oil. It's really good oil.

Their carbs are like everyone else's, EPA calls the tune. Mostly no prob unless you're modding the saw.

My Stihls start just fine, thanks.

I happen to have mostly Stihls because that's what sells around here; I get em' off the junk pile, and unjunk them. I am becoming Husky-curious.

hey buddy I understand. Everyone has their own preferences. I just personally don't like Stihl cause of what I mentioned. Hard starting, pricey, etc. And actually on my new Husky you can adjust the jets up to a half a turn. I personally don't like the Stihl dealer by me because the guy that owns it is a know it all jerk. I brought a Homelite 330 over to him and ask him if he could fine tune it for me. Just the jets, nothing else. A what 2 min job? He looked at me and laughed and pretty much said "we don't work on junk".
So as far as I am am concerned, I don't buy from a company that hires people like that. He could of said nicely that they only worked on Stihls. I have heard other complaints also about him.
 
Most popular and well sold model in the current Husqvarna line up. Has cut more wood than any other saw in there line up. Power to weight ratio is way off, but hey nobody told me that then I first held my dads Pioneer P26 over 30 years ago, and it too cut a mess load off wood.
 
So as far as I am concerned, I don't buy from a company that hires people like that.
I have no intention of starting (another) Ford vs. Chevy fight, but…
The dealer isn’t “hired” by Stihl Corporation… he isn’t an employee of Stihl, rather he’s a Stihl customer. The dealer applies for a dealership charter, and after being awarded it he “buys” the Stihl product for resale. The Stihl Corporation makes available to the dealer tools, books, and training (some of it is required in order to retain the charter)… but it ain’t free, the dealer pays for it. The dealer must also adhere to policies set forth by Stihl, and failure to do so may result in the loss of the charter. At the same time, the “store” holding the charter is owned by the dealer… he is free to run his store as he sees fit. Just like any other “dealership” (cars, guns, saws, etc.), you short-change yourself when you form an opinion of a product based on one dealer. If your area is like most parts of the country, there’s another Stihl dealer just a few miles down the road from him… probably several within a half-hour drive.

Hard starting and pricey? Hmmmm…. I’ve never noticed a Stihl (or any other brand) to be hard starting if it’s tuned and running correctly. And with three levels of saws (Homeowner, mid-range and Pro) Stihl prices compare right in there with Husqvarna (is there really any arguable difference between the Husky 455 and Stihl MS290… weight, size, power, price?).

But enough of that… you’ve already got the 455.

Could you tell me what you would recommend as in a chain that will cut through oak, maple, and pine with no problem, and that will stay sharp?

This is where there is an arguable difference. Stihl saw chain is manufactured by Stihl… the only saw manufacturer on the planet that makes saw chain; all others use re-branded chain. If you want the best chain that will stretch less and stay sharp the longest… well, you’re gonna’ haf’ta swallow your pride and go see a Stihl dealer. Stihl makes a full line of chains, and uses the “green” and “yellow” labeling system (green is the so-called safety chain). You won’t need anything exotic, either the “yellow” labeled RSC (full chisel) or RMC (semi-chisel) is what you’re looking for… the RSC will cut a little faster, the RMC will stay sharp a little longer (especially in dirty conditions).
 
Whats the "safety chain"? is that stock or something? I am very comfortable with saws...in fact sometimes I think a little to comfortable haha. I love messing around and fixing old saws and most of my Homelites that the switches broke on, I just took em off and use the choke as my switch :laugh:

I have had my 455 for several years. Up to a few months ago I thought of it as a "junk" saw. I changed the chain to Oregon LGX and what a difference! The 455 is not the equal of my STUMPBROKE STIHL 310 but it does very well. Probably will have it worked on sometime in the future.

Hal
 
I have had my 455 for several years. Up to a few months ago I thought of it as a "junk" saw. I changed the chain to Oregon LGX and what a difference! The 455 is not the equal of my STUMPBROKE STIHL 310 but it does very well. Probably will have it worked on sometime in the future.

Hal

How does it do next to your 10-10?
 
Could you tell me what you would recommend as in a chain that will cut through oak, maple, and pine with no problem, and that will stay sharp?
I'm fairly sure that uses 3/8 pitch, 0.050" gauge chain. You'll have to decide if you want to use full chisel or semi chisel chain. Full chisel has a sharp point at the leading corner and cuts fastest as long as it is sharp, but it dulls easier in dirty wood. Semi chisel has a rounded outside front corner (chamfer chisel is similar but with a bevel), and maybe cuts slower but holds up longer in dirty wood. I used to much prefer semi for the wood I cut, but I have some full chisel loops now and I like it just as well.

From Oregon you want 72LGX full chisel or 72DP semi. Also woodland pro ( Bailey's - Chainsaw Chain > WoodlandPRO Chainsaw Chain > WoodlandPro 3/8" Pitch Saw Chain ) has 30RC full chisel and 30SC semi.

I have a loop of 72LGX and am very happy with it. The Vanguard chain you have is similar to 72LGX, but the rakers are bent over for kickback protection. I've never run it. Probably the first thing to do is learn to sharpen the Vanguard and learn to dress the rakers. Having really sharp chain makes all the difference when you go out to get some work done.

Also, this is good: http://www.oregonchain.com/maintenance/manual.htm
 
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Obligatory 290 slam: The Stihl 290 is an overweight pig of a turd that gives a bad name to boat anchors.

There, I said it! If you don't like it, then :fart:

Chain? Don't think, just go down to your Stihl dealer and get a couple loops of RSC chain and keep it sharp. See, that wasn't too hard.
 
Chain? Don't think, just go down to your Stihl dealer and get a couple loops of RSC chain and keep it sharp. See, that wasn't too hard.

I've had a 455 for over a year. I thought I really liked it. After reading a bunch of posts here, I modded the muffler, tweaked the carb, and replaced the chain with Stihl RS chain (33 RS 72 for the stock 20" bar). Now I LOVE it. It flys. It still bogs down if you push it too hard, but so what? Don't push it, and its a great homeowner's saw.

Speaking of going to the Stihl dealer to buy chain. I did just that. I told the guy exactly what I wanted (.050, 20" bar, non-safety chain, 3/8"). He looked at me like I had two heads. "Full 3/8 chain? Really?" he asked. Yup. He had to go in the back to get it, after looking up my 455 in the book to confirm my specs. He did warn me to be careful, but it seemed like this was the first time anyone had ever bought this chain from them. I'll be going back to my Husqvarna dealer from now on (where I got my new 435, thanks CAD!).
 

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