oregon grinder - setting depth gauges - a video

[Philbert]

I don't have any credit cards. Never had a need to.

THAT is why you do!
Credit cards give you certain protections - I don't carry a balance, or finance / buy things I can't pay for, but:
- I don't have to carry wads of cash;
- I am protected against most scams;
- the bank gives me leverage in a disputed transaction;
- some cards double warranties, or even have theft protection;
- I can rent cars and stay in hotel room a lot easier;
- I can deal with unexpected emergencies;
-
-


Philbert

 

[heyduke]

I'll never shop at Baileys again after their whole identity theft "issue". Why they felt a need to keep credit card numbers in a database is completely beyond me. **** Bailey's! And why people on here found out nearly 2 months before we did (as a commercial customer?) Not to mention their pricing was always confusing. Often cheaper through Bailey's vs Woodland, but the same exact company... but we weren't supposed to order the cheaper item through Bailey's.
Sorry for the off topic, but I hate them with a passion. When they send flyers it goes straight to the woodstove.

Anyhow, I can't notice any difference between Oregon wheels or the ones from the lime green grinder.

that's good to hear about the timber tuff wheels. i just haven't even taken them from the package they came in. they're hanging behind the grinder. regarding baileys, you're not the only customer who

I've never been scammed like that before. I use cash for most things.
Thankfully my bank was decent to work with but it required getting new cards and checks. The scammer cleaned me out for over $2k, bought an airline ticket and groceries in England.
Yes, it was from Bailey's, that's all I used the card for, pay cash for 99% of things.

The theft wasn't so much the issue, but how it was handled. Why it took 2+ months to contact us? Couldnt have emailed the vendors? And when I finally got a letter and asked them about it taling so long, I pretty much got... "oh well, not our problem"

We weren't a huge vendor, maybe a couple grand a year, but as another vendor told us (Madsen's).. 'I don't care if you spend $5 a year, you'll be treated just as well as the guy spending $500,000"

they have lost. my old outfit has quit dealing with them too. i had a problem more than fifteen years ago. my company credit card, used to buy parts and supplies for a tree company, was compromised, someone ran up over $1500 on a monthly bill. it made me look bad since i frequently joked about using it a mustang ranch, northeast of reno. i didn't think about it at the time, but now i suspect that it was a baileys employee 95% of the purchases i made with that card were from baileys. and yes, they could have done a lot better informing customers of the most recent exploits. i still use them, but not as much and i pay with a burner.

I've never been scammed like that before. I use cash for most things.
Thankfully my bank was decent to work with but it required getting new cards and checks. The scammer cleaned me out for over $2k, bought an airline ticket and groceries in England.
Yes, it was from Bailey's, that's all I used the card for, pay cash for 99% of things.

The theft wasn't so much the issue, but how it was handled. Why it took 2+ months to contact us? Couldnt have emailed the vendors? And when I finally got a letter and asked them about it taling so long, I pretty much got... "oh well, not our problem"

We weren't a huge vendor, maybe a couple grand a year, but as another vendor told us (Madsen's).. 'I don't care if you spend $5 a year, you'll be treated just as well as the guy spending $500,000"

madsens gets my business any time. you just call them on the phone and you get someone who knows what you and he are talking about. their prices are good too.

 

[Khntr85]

@heyduke @Philbert hey I got my grinder last night!!!!

It's all there and ready to work, I jut got it set up and the wheel on when my woman came and said "get your ass in here that thing will be here tomorrown!!!" LOL...

I haven't put a square on the vise yet....I did put a new RM chain on just to see were the grinder wheel contacted the cutter....I have the settings at roughly 30 and 60 degrees.....I may have to beg one of you grinding gurus to take a pic of where how deep you set your whee into the cutter..... I grabbed a round file to try and get the same depth on the grinding wheel....I didn't do any grinding as I want to make sure everything is square, I was just "checking" it out last night!!!

I do understand it has it's learning curve and that's honestly fun to me.... I am very OCD about things though and I do like to know I am doing something the best way I can physically do it!!!!

By the way the eBay seller I got it from gave me a flawless transaction and his price is $324 if any wondered!!!!!

 

[Khntr85]

Hey duke I just watched your video you posted recently about grinding the cutters a few more times....I did see a good picture were you showed how you want the wheel sitting in the cutter..... it looks like you want the top point of the cutter to be at the top of the radius of the wheel, is that correct???

Damn I am at work now and I wish there was a way I could bring my grinder to work lol....me and my supervisors get along GREAT, but I would love to see his face when he seen me in my office grinding chain LOL...

 

[Khntr85]

@Philbert hey I remember seeing a picture you posted that had a grinding wheel, and a hand-file sharpening a chain right beside each other.... do you remember this photo....is so could you give a link by chance.... I thought I saved the picture, but can't find it anywhere...

Thanks a lot Kyle!!!

 

[heyduke]

Hey duke I just watched your video you posted recently about grinding the cutters a few more times....I did see a good picture were you showed how you want the wheel sitting in the cutter..... it looks like you want the top point of the cutter to be at the top of the radius of the wheel, is that correct???

Damn I am at work now and I wish there was a way I could bring my grinder to work lol....me and my supervisors get along GREAT, but I would love to see his face when he seen me in my office grinding chain LOL...

ideally, you should set the wheel depth twice, once low to cut the gullets as deeply as possible. this helps clear chips while cutting. for your final pass raise the wheel enough so that the radius is in both the top plate and side plate. it's ok to take the chain out and look at it closely after you grind the first cutter. if the edge on the side plate is straight, your wheel is too low. if there is a curve extending into the bottom of the top plate, you've nailed it. look closely at the edge on the top plate too. the face should be concave, not straight and should blend into the side plate. i'll look thru my photos later and see if i can provide some illustrations. as you suggested above, when you look at the cutter against the wheel the "beak" should be right at the edge of the radius. get a piece of new chain and study it. that's what yours should look like.

 

[Khntr85]

Ok this explains it loud and clear!!!

I figures I should have the "beak" right were the radius of the wheel ends, but I just wanted to check!!!!

Thanks a lot for your help once agian, and ya if you find pics that's cool too!!!!

 

[Khntr85]

Wow I don't know how I messed that post up so bad, I was just trying to quote the sentence about the beak lol

 

[heyduke]

Wow I don't know how I messed that post up so bad, I was just trying to quote the sentence about the beak lol

here's a picture of the beak and the edge of the radius. you cans see the radius cut into the side plate.



here's a picture of how the side plate should look. the angle is pointing at the curve in the side plate. the top plate is nicely blended into the side plate. this isn' perfect but not bad for a resin wheel. just below the curved part you can see the straight cut left when the gullet was lowered.


here's a cutter with a straight edge on the side plate. it will probably cut fairly well but may not self feed as well. the wheel was set too low or needed dressing.

 

[Khntr85]

Oh man these pic are very helpful duke thanks so much!!!!!

I will send you a pic of a cutter when I get goin tonight.... so you keep your angles at 30 and 60 degrees or do you go by the manufacturers angles...

 

[Philbert]

@heyduke @Philbert hey I got my grinder last night!!!!
. . . I do understand it has it's learning curve and that's honestly fun to me.... I am very OCD about things though and I do like to know I am doing something the best way I can physically do it!!!!

Congrats on your new arrival! There are lots of threads about grinding / sharpening (opposed to this specific topic on depth gauges) - most apply to any model of full sized, round grinder, and chain and might be a better place to attract input on general questions. Here is one of them for the similar 511A grinder (slightly different vise):
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

In general:
- take your time;
- take lots of light taps;
- dress your wheels frequently;
- start with some scrap chains and see what it takes to intentionally overheat a cutter - then work back from there;
- 'play around' with the settings and see how they affect the cutter shape.

While your chain and cutter are both new, try 'fitting' the wheel to your new chain and working backwards to read the scales: does the vise read 30° in each direction (or maybe 29° Right and 31° Left)? Does a grinder head tilt of 60° match, or is 57.5° closer? etc. Once you start sharpening, it is up to you to decide what angles you want - but these decisions should be intentional choices.

@Philbert hey I remember seeing a picture you posted that had a grinding wheel, and a hand-file sharpening a chain right beside each other....!

ideally, you should set the wheel depth twice, once low to cut the gullets as deeply as possible. this helps clear chips while cutting. for your final pass raise the wheel enough so that the radius is in both the top plate and side plate.

I profile my cutting edges first, so I know how much gullet I have to clear. Then I 'back off' the chain positioning stop / dog about 1/2 a turn, and lower the wheel depth about 1/2 a turn, and 'run' the gullets. This works for small amounts, and needs to be adjusted for gullets that have long been ignored. Again, you will develop methods that work for you.

Philbert

 

[Khntr85]

Congrats on your new arrival! There are lots of threads about grinding / sharpening (opposed to this specific topic on depth gauges) - most apply to any model of full sized, round grinder, and chain and might be a better place to attract input on general questions. Here is one of them for the similar 511A grinder (slightly different vise):
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

In general:
- take your time;
- take lots of light taps;
- dress your wheels frequently;
- start with some scrap chains and see what it takes to intentionally overheat a cutter - then work back from there;
- 'play around' with the settings and see how they affect the cutter shape.

While your chain and cutter are both new, try 'fitting' the wheel to your new chain and working backwards to read the scales: does the vise read 30° in each direction (or maybe 29° Right and 31° Left)? Does a grinder head tilt of 60° match, or is 57.5° closer? etc. Once you start sharpening, it is up to you to decide what angles you want - but these decisions should be intentional choices.



View attachment 537619
View attachment 537620




I profile my cutting edges first, so I know how much gullet I have to clear. Then I 'back off' the chain positioning stop / dog about 1/2 a turn, and lower the wheel depth about 1/2 a turn, and 'run' the gullets. This works for small amounts, and needs to be adjusted for gullets that have long been ignored. Again, you will develop methods that work for you.

Philbert

Thanks a lot philbert..... that's the photo I was hoping to find.... I saved it this time lol....I will take my time and get to know her tonight lol...

 

[Khntr85]

And duke I apologize for cluttering up your thread, I will start PMing you agian if you don't mind... thanks Kyle!!!

 

[heyduke]

And duke I apologize for cluttering up your thread, I will start PMing you agian if you don't mind... thanks Kyle!!!

it's a public forum. other hombres have the same question that you have. philbert always has good suggestions too. my next chainsaw related vid will be on the timberline sharpener.

 

[Khntr85]

The chain in the front i just sharpened with my grinder.... the chain in the back is a brand new RM 3/8 straight out of the box.....I made a few cuts with the chain I ground and it acted damn good...

Please let me know what you think... feel free to PM me and critique me!!

 

[heyduke]

YThe chain in the front i justbsharpened with my grinder.... the chain in the back is a new RM 3/8..... I made a few cuts and it acted damn good...

Please let me know what you think... feel free to PM me and critique me!!View attachment 537714View attachment 537715

very good for your first time, nice radius in the side plate and top plate. a foto of the top plates, looking down would show the top plate angle.

 

[PonsseGuy]

I have had a CBN for many years now and have sharpened 100's of chains. While they do clog from filthy chains, a quick sot of brake parts cleaner and they are like new again.

CBN can be stripped and re plated also at a lesser cost of a new wheel, although US Diamond isn't the place to have it done.

I wanted a wheel more to the profile of the raker so I made a blank and sent it to be plated. You also get to choose the grit you prefer.
Blurry pic but you get the jist.


View attachment 537045

Where do you recommend getting wheels stripped and re plated?

 

[super3]

Where do you recommend getting wheels stripped and re plated?

Radiac Abrasives is who I used.