Here's a little walk through of our firewood yard.
Our firewood yard
- Thread starter woodchuckcanuck
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Nice operation, thanks for sharing!
Very interesting info about processors, would they maybe be more practical if a person had a larger crew?
Very interesting info about processors, would they maybe be more practical if a person had a larger crew?
I would say the EastonMade splitter could do with 1 extra person, maybe 2, to really make the most of the splitter's capabilities. One person blocking. One picking them up and running the splitter and 2 people picking the pieces and stacking.
The processor could maybe do with another person to make the most of its operating time. Processors are fussy though.
Fussy machines ain't no fun at all! I'd probably be thinking about just going back to the old fashioned chainsaw as well... a person with a saw is pretty adaptable to whatever the log needs to make it into firewood.
How do you measure the length of your wood? just a marking stick, or have you figured out something more scientific?
How do you measure the length of your wood? just a marking stick, or have you figured out something more scientific?
I run a Husq 372xp x-torq with a 24 inch bar. I'm 6ft so with the bar I don't have to bend as much. From the back of the handle to the first nut (one closest to the bar nose) is 16 inches. It's simply a quick turn of the saw to know where the next spot is.
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Nice operation, but the video . . . . too jerky, wrecked my eyes!
I would suggest a cutting bench next to your splitter.
The advantages. No measuring. No stumbling about cut rounds. No lifting from the ground. No bending, reaching, cutting in a log pile. The only time logs are moving is when loading the deck, or rolling one forward not position. When logs are moved is the most hazardous time, so no one should be by the splitter when loading the deck, as they sometimes roll off the front of the table and hit the splitter. 16" bar is good, otherwise you get into the next log with the tip. Another hazard is occasionally placing a plastic wedge in the saw kerf to keep from pinching, to finish a cut. Keep your head to the side of the bar at all times. If you don't you will be very quickly reminded at some point.
If you make one, also design it to be lifted with forks or on wheels for clean up and mobility.
Another suggestion is to add an extension to the adjustable height four way wedge for re-splitting. make the four-way into a table for the top splits. Small splits off the bottom. Top of wedge holds larger splits near operator. Pull top near piece to log lift with pulp hook. Pull top far piece to beam for re-splitting. I worked from the log lift side. If lower piece needs resplit, leave top pieces on wing or table, what ever you want to call it.. Raise four way to untrap lower splits. Pull them back and re-split on single wedge with wing raised. After a bit it gets real smooth. I mentioned this to Andrew at the Paul Bunyan Show three years ago.
You have a lot more control than a box wedge and much less junk, although slower of course.
A lot less back work chasing the splits for re-splitting too.
You have a very nice set up. Just passing along some additional thoughts.
EDIT: This is a Timberwolf TW-6 wedge. It is really beefy and fat. It held up very well, but the fat design made re-splitting sometimes difficult to control. It is fat to accommodate the four-way lift cylinder behind the wedge. It is no longer made. The narrower wedges, lifted from below the beam are a better design. The timber wolf four-way is a slip-on design, that in the raised position could also slip off when in use. Should not be an issue with the bottom lift design.
The advantages. No measuring. No stumbling about cut rounds. No lifting from the ground. No bending, reaching, cutting in a log pile. The only time logs are moving is when loading the deck, or rolling one forward not position. When logs are moved is the most hazardous time, so no one should be by the splitter when loading the deck, as they sometimes roll off the front of the table and hit the splitter. 16" bar is good, otherwise you get into the next log with the tip. Another hazard is occasionally placing a plastic wedge in the saw kerf to keep from pinching, to finish a cut. Keep your head to the side of the bar at all times. If you don't you will be very quickly reminded at some point.
If you make one, also design it to be lifted with forks or on wheels for clean up and mobility.
Another suggestion is to add an extension to the adjustable height four way wedge for re-splitting. make the four-way into a table for the top splits. Small splits off the bottom. Top of wedge holds larger splits near operator. Pull top near piece to log lift with pulp hook. Pull top far piece to beam for re-splitting. I worked from the log lift side. If lower piece needs resplit, leave top pieces on wing or table, what ever you want to call it.. Raise four way to untrap lower splits. Pull them back and re-split on single wedge with wing raised. After a bit it gets real smooth. I mentioned this to Andrew at the Paul Bunyan Show three years ago.
You have a lot more control than a box wedge and much less junk, although slower of course.
A lot less back work chasing the splits for re-splitting too.
You have a very nice set up. Just passing along some additional thoughts.
EDIT: This is a Timberwolf TW-6 wedge. It is really beefy and fat. It held up very well, but the fat design made re-splitting sometimes difficult to control. It is fat to accommodate the four-way lift cylinder behind the wedge. It is no longer made. The narrower wedges, lifted from below the beam are a better design. The timber wolf four-way is a slip-on design, that in the raised position could also slip off when in use. Should not be an issue with the bottom lift design.
Cutting benches. Been there, done that. For slabs I had this setup.
Then I changed it up a bit and used it for logs.
Then we moved everything to a larger yard and we bought the Pilke. I then built a cutting bench next to the stacking area.
Then filled it.
I used it for 10 or so loads on the cutting bench. Then decided that all the time used to load the bench with teh skidsteer could be better spent blocking the logs up right at the wood pile. So now we bring the splitter to the big logs.
And stack right off the splitter.
Then I changed it up a bit and used it for logs.
Then we moved everything to a larger yard and we bought the Pilke. I then built a cutting bench next to the stacking area.
Then filled it.
I used it for 10 or so loads on the cutting bench. Then decided that all the time used to load the bench with teh skidsteer could be better spent blocking the logs up right at the wood pile. So now we bring the splitter to the big logs.
And stack right off the splitter.
