Outdoor Wood Stoves. Got one?

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We got our boiler set over the weekend. Set it up on a couple block caps so as to get loading height to save my old back. Under the stove is the conduit we used for the pex tubing that came highly recommended by our dealer. Can't remember the name now but can get it if anyone is interested.

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So how long will an outdoor boiler last in years????

outdoor boilers are a great idea but the intial cost is way to much and from the sellers of the boilers make it sound like they wouldn't last more then 20 to 25 years.:bang: For all that money it better last at least 50 yrs.
 
[QUOTEoutdoor boilers are a great idea but the intial cost is way to much and from the sellers of the boilers make it sound like they wouldn't last more then 20 to 25 years. For all that money it better last at least 50 yrs][/QUOTE]
A $650 dollar a month propane bill will change your mind as to the economics of a wood boiler. Of course living in a warmer climate like Ohio you might never see the savings I do.
As for longitivety. There are alot of brands on the market that are not worth a damn. You really need to do you research on which brands are high in quality before you pull the trigger on your checkbook.
 
It all has to do how you take care of the unit, most units will last you long time. You could have a small TIMBER WOLF with about ever thing you will need for say +or- $5000, it dont take much to pay for itself when you got high heating bills.
JAck
 
bwalker said:
When I bought my Heatmor a few years back it was around $5k less pipe and circ pumps. My unit is not the smallest one they make.


The price on freaking steel made that 5k stove turn in to a 6k stove or so,
, did you get the 200 CSS. I just worked on a 200 css, looks good to me.(ps heat does transment downwords I think it would have been better if the water jacket went all away around but they know more then me.)
The timberwolf 3500sqft comes with a pump for $3790 +parts (line and so on)
a little bigger then the 100css heatmore, witch runs about $4800.
Jack
 
Pcoz88 said:
outdoor boilers are a great idea but the intial cost is way to much and from the sellers of the boilers make it sound like they wouldn't last more then 20 to 25 years.:bang: For all that money it better last at least 50 yrs.

You are correct in that they must last a while but 50 years is stretching it, LOL.
My gas bill for calender year 2005 was $2900 and last year was real mild here. My hot water is gas also. I will have the better part of 7K in the Woodmaster by the time it runs and heats my house and domestic water but figure to have a zippo gas bill except for a few months in the summer for water. It will take a few bucks to run the stove and a few parts. The saws cost some and so does diesel to haul wood from the farm. Id say Ill be hard pressed to spend 1K a year to do all of that, what do you think? I figure to be at break even by the end of year 3.
 
Its a good idea but it should last alot longer then they do.650$ a month WOW.Thats moere then 300 gal. of propane a month at prices now.I heat our 2000 SF log home with a woodstock soapstone stove.
 
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Have Empyre

New to the forum. I installed an Empyre model 250 last winter and love it.:D Previous year cost over $2000 in propane to heat house. This year should not cost me a dime with the furnace. Heats my hot water also.
 
Butch(OH) said:
You are correct in that they must last a while but 50 years is stretching it, LOL.
My gas bill for calender year 2005 was $2900 and last year was real mild here. My hot water is gas also. I will have the better part of 7K in the Woodmaster by the time it runs and heats my house and domestic water but figure to have a zippo gas bill except for a few months in the summer for water. It will take a few bucks to run the stove and a few parts. The saws cost some and so does diesel to haul wood from the farm. Id say Ill be hard pressed to spend 1K a year to do all of that, what do you think? I figure to be at break even by the end of year 3.

if your system is setup right you can run it year round to heat your water and won't interfear with your A/C...mine is running as i type..i save 45 buc's a month just in hot water..only have to stoke it every 5 to 6 days
 
ghitch75 said:
if your system is setup right you can run it year round to heat your water and won't interfear with your A/C...mine is running as i type..i save 45 buc's a month just in hot water..only have to stoke it every 5 to 6 days

You may not believe this but my summer time gas bills are around $100 (natural gas) Furnace has no pilot and the water heater is only about 5 years old and hi-ef. Wife is clean freak and have 3 kids at home, hot water runs a lot. I have the diagrams for shunting the hot water away from the heat exchanger for summer A/C use, I just didn't figure that having the Woodmaster running was worth saving a few hundred for June through August? Maybe should adjust my thinking.
 
mine is electric and just me and my girlfreind...i have some custmers that have gas and they just pay like 15 buc's a month to keep the meter there...sounds like you go through the hot water with 3 kids..could save you big buc's running it in the summer months
 
If you use a lot of hot water in the summer, its the best way to go. Less then 250 bucks you can put a side arm on and a mixing valve and heat your water all year around, plus a a couple of valves and some fittings on top of the hot water heater. Glitch as I type also my hot water is being heat plus a soon to be hooked up hot tube, cant wait.
Jack
 
cozeburn 250 with blower damper and love it and hate it.

use good wood ... first year all my wood was green and i had to fill it every 4 or 5 hours.
alot of kinda hidden up front install costs like pex line and i mean the stuff you can lay in the ground .
then you should run glycol so if the fire goes out it wont freeze.
then you have to keep a fire burning all the time and that can suck as just crankin the heat in the past was easy.

BUT the cash you save is better spent on retirement and vegas.

second year for me and this year i have seasoned wood coming.

shayne
 
don't much care for the side arm hook up...not to safe having 180 degree water in the water heater seen mixing valve hang to the hot side...melt the skin off your fingers(specailly with kids in the house)......higher than 250 buc's but you have control over the temp....little in floor heat job water heater is on the right

btw MS-310 i'm GHITCH75 not GLITCH75
 
cozeburn 250 with blower damper and love it and hate it.

use good wood ... first year all my wood was green and i had to fill it every 4 or 5 hours.
alot of kinda hidden up front install costs like pex line and i mean the stuff you can lay in the ground .
then you should run glycol so if the fire goes out it wont freeze.
then you have to keep a fire burning all the time and that can suck as just crankin the heat in the past was easy
Something is wrong if your only getting 4-5 hours with green wood. When I burn green wood in mine I fill it about every twelve or so and it would actually last longer than that as there is always wood left when I refill it. With dry wood I find that if I pack it too the gills it will last about 24 hours depending on the outside temp.
 
ghitch75 said:
don't much care for the side arm hook up...not to safe having 180 degree water in the water heater seen mixing valve hang to the hot side...melt the skin off your fingers(specially with kids in the house)......higher than 250 buc's but you have control over the temp....little in floor heat job water heater is on the right

btw MS-310 i'm GHITCH75 not GLITCH75

Wow some one is spending alot of money......
Mixing valves are pretty sure thing, you can buy cheap ones that are not UL listed and then you mite have a problem. Side arm I think is the best bet, lots more hot water.
Ghitch are you HVAC (pressurized system) lic. installer?????
Or do you not have to be in Indiana
 
high pressure boiler cert.150 pound 1,000kw(hp)....it's just a 12 pound system..as far as the mixing vavle goes down here the water is so hard it makes them stick(don't mater if it's UL or not) and they stick to the hot side and you get 180(or what ever the wood boiler is set at) out of the tap..repaired or replaced 100's of them in schools,nursing homes,ect...worked as a union pipe fitter for 15 years local 136....
 
ghitch75 said:
high pressure boiler cert.150 pound 1,000kw(hp)....it's just a 12 pound system..as far as the mixing vavle goes down here the water is so hard it makes them stick(don't mater if it's UL or not) and they stick to the hot side and you get 180(or what ever the wood boiler is set at) out of the tap..repaired or replaced 100's of them in schools,nursing homes,ect...worked as a union pipe fitter for 15 years local 136....

Thats so werid I have been around this snice I was a newborn(didnt know anything) My dad was and still is a pipe fitter/boilermaker and i have been putting mixing valves in for a good 8 years mysle fand never had a problem. I am working on my boilermaker cert. Stamp R. Its hard but I think it will pay off.
Jack.
How do you do your hotwater heater kits?????
 

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