Outdoor wood stoves

[ghitch75]

here is what i sell comes up to 550ft rolls or can gut what ever you need and i sell everything you need to hook up your stove coils,valves ,pumps,ect....

 

[bwalker]

I have a real hard time believeing that there will be zero heat loss with the pipe pictured. I use the insul sel pipe which is the same idea, but bigger in diameter and I get some heat loss bewteen the boiler and the house. I am now where near 100" away. I however should have a bigger circ pump.

 

[ghitch75]

i have it laying on the ground just for people who can beleive it either and thermometers in both supply and return lines at the stove and in the house and both read the same in 150ft....and i don't put them in like every else does i'v been in HVAC and plumping and boiler work for 21 years and i'm a jorneyman steam and pipefitter local 136....i'm in the process of building a stove that is 90% efficient and all the stoves on the market today might 55% at the top(per pound of wood burn't to btu out put) and will have little to no smoke evn on shut down and fire up ....i see you have a heatmore has the ager got stuck in it yet?......man those are fun to get looose i went on a service call the other day on one had to put my 3ft pipe wrench on it to get it loose and replace the aqua stat...

 

[ghitch75]

btw the insul sel pipe is not even close to the same as this pipe the pipe is made in denmark and it is made to be put in permfrost which is froozen year around it for running hot and cold water from building to building

 

[bwalker]

What is the R value? Judging by the physical size and the type of material(appears the same as insulseal) I would have a hard to believing it would be better than insul seal.
My auger has never stuck and I really dont see how one could get it stuck.
BTW do you plan on mareketing these stoves your building or is it just for your personal use.

 

[pipeboy]

i've been in HVAC and plumping and boiler work for 21 years and i'm a jorneyman steam and pipefitter local 136....i'm in the process of building a stove that is 90% efficient ...

yeah baby.... leave it to a pipefitter...that's what i always say!! hello there my fellow ua brother st. paul local 455 here (even though i live in WI) i've seen the stuff that you are talking about...only i put it underground below the streets of st paul for district energy. it is made in denmark only the stuff i had was like sch. 20 carbon and anywhere from 4-6 in. in dia. it's fun to weld sch. 40 mains to the sch. 20 take offs!!! in the ditch...in the winter...

anyway $10.80 seems like a decent price how do you get it here?? a 150 ft. roll of that junk has got to be just gangly!! is it stiff and hard to unroll? does it have the oxygen barrier pex for heating lines. since it sounds like you do a lot more heating than i do...i'm in more of a commercial air conditioning shop right now... what do you treat the water with?? i know it's not necesary to have freeze protection (glycol) but isn't it just easier?
man i am just all smiles over this...i knew i couldn't be the only pipefitter interested in this stuff...i mean it's almost like a creed to improve upon things.

can't wait to catch a reply!!

 

[pipeboy]

oh and by the way...not that were not all drooling over this other stuff now...but i found the local central boiler dealer in town was selling the eco flex for 12 bucks per foot, but like i said only in 100 or 500ft. rolls. if i'm 140 feet from the house i feel a little left out!! so ghitch aside from the silverbullet stove that your going to build what stove on the market do you currently recomend...if any. i haven't found a single one that i really love...they all have things that i don't like! like an auger on a heatmore or the square box on a central( although that's what i'm leaning toward). sometimes i wish i was still working in the refinery and could scratch up some sch 40 48" dia. pipe to use as a fire box and weld the water tank around it...sounds like a good weeklong project!

 

[ghitch75]

bwalker it has an r-value of r-45 and yes i'll be marketing these stoves i'm building.....

pipeboy we can sell you any lenght of pipe you want from 1ft to 550ft any size you want the stove i'm selling know is crown royal it has an ash pan,cast iron shaker grates and is made of 409 stainless steel..it will burn wood ,coal, whole corn cob or about anything you can through in it( sold one to a guy that has a tractor junk yard and he cuts up old tires and burns in it with wood)very stout stove me and a buddy of mine have tryed to melt one down with coal and we did hurt it a bit

here is where you can get the spec's on it this is where we get them from

www.northlanddistrib.com

i would sell you one but your out of our area and as far as anti-freeze goes with your water to air coil in your furnace when it is running and the stove is out no chance of it freezing

pm me your zip and i'll see what shipping would

 

[bwalker]

R-45 is pretty impressive. Whats the brandname?
Also I am very interested in your design. Do you have any info available that I could look over?

 

[bwalker]

BTW I dont run any AF in my system. The propane boiler inside the house works as a back up of the fire went out, which it never does.

 

[BlackSmith]

ghitch75, when you say this stove is stainless does this mean the water never comes in contact with regular carbon steel? I'm looking for a stove just to heat my pool.

 

[Crofter]

Can 409 really be referred to as stainless like the 18/8 steels such as 304 or 316. Snow machine mufflers are one item made from 409. It does have greater resistance to exhaust gas corrosion but still rusts quite readily.

 

[pipeboy]

i'm not sure on the brand name but here are a couple of info sites on the stuff he's talking about. www.logstor.com and www.urecon.com
the stuff looks pretty cool...i also found sort of the same thing from ryan companies in minneapolis...have no idea what it costs but it's called rhino flex! happy hunting or just do a google search on preinsulated pex...whole bunches of em' have to find a distributor near you though in order to get pricing! chat at ya later

matt

 

[Rabbitdog]

For all who are interested in Pacific Western stoves - BEWARE!
I bought one in 2001. I thought it was the best investment I ever made, until Feb. 2005 when it started to leak. Not a major problem at first but it quickly got worse. Since it came with a 30 year warranty against leaks, I simply called the dealer to get info on repairs. He informed me that the company has changed hands and the new company will not honor the warranty. Furthermore, even a major tear down and reweld will likely not solve the problem. Apparently, I'm not alone but am having trouble getting contact info for other suckers, ahh, I mean customers. The really bad part is that I even paid an additional $800 for a stainless unit.

 

[pipeboy]

i had thought that pacific western went belly up but they just swapped hands eh?? well my advice to you would be to go to your local welding supply store and take a look at all of the business cards at the entrance. find one that say's "portable welding" and "stainless" on it. give em a call and ask for pricing...i could almost bet you that if you describe what the problem is and tell them where the leak is you could get it fixed with less headaches than dealing with the dealership...sounds like yoiu can forget about the warranty dude...sorry!

 

[Crofter]

Pipeboy, I have been head first in quite a few doing welding repairs. I saw most of the erosion fro the fire side, not the water side. It is often very general and when the leak starts the metal is pretty thin and difficut to weld where it is. A lot of makers advertise as " stainless " the alloy 409. It is more resistant to firebox corrosion than straight carbon steel but nowhere NEAR as is true stainless steels in the 300 series which is also at least 10 times more expensive per pound and has also increased production costs. Some units combine carbon and stainless steels and where they meet there has been problems due to the thermal expansion rates being nearly double for stainless and resulting in repeated mechanical stresses with every temperature cycle. Sometimes trying to do a repair on a poor design is throwing good money after bad. They are a big investment. Dont believe much of what any manufacturer tells you. Be very suspicious of testimonials too.

 

[ray benson]

My 1988 dodge p/u has a stainless steel exhaust. It is magnetic so I assumed it is a 409 type. The truck is and has been driven just about every day. Our area uses a lot of salt in the winter on the roads.The truck gets a lot of short trips and the exhaust pipe is still solid as new. The muffler rotted out, and the pipe clamps rotted off the pipe several times. So the pipe is pretty amazing. Do you think it is 409 stainless?

 

[pipeboy]

actually auto makers use their own special blend of alloys in many different things. i took a metalurgy class going through school and learned that the blend of metals that automobile manufacturers use is pretty expansive nowadays...i mean we're talking 7-10 metals blended together to make one. things like carbon, iron, copper, alumininum, robinium(spelling might be off, but it's the kinda prassy looking coating on cheap bolts) it's unreal some of the mix lists that they come up with for strength or weight. as far as these stoves go i think i'm sold on a simple carbon unit like the classic from central boiler. i don't think i like the square design(more welds) but it seems the simplest. and i am a huge proponant of K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) after having seen some of the stainless that came out of the heat exchangers at the refidery i worked at...stainless just isn't made for heat. we took them out and dropped them on the ground with the crane and they shattered like glass under their own weight!! if i hadn't seen it with my own eyes...never wouldv'e beleived it. and beleive me i am a stainless steel lover...bolts for outdoor use, angle and plate for a ladder i made for my pontoon, but it's just not ment for extreme heat or tempurature differences!

 

[Crofter]

Ray, the original exhausts on a lot of equipment are often an alloy similar to 409. They do last at least twice as long as replacement ones which usually are just straight carbon steel. Aftermarket pipes of true stainless such as 304 are available that wiithstand corrosion even better, but cracking can be a problem. I talked for quite a while to a Mennonite fellow at a farm trade show, who was showing off a wood boiler model they made. Straight carbon steel, but considerable thicker than standard for the firebox area. It used a grate system and ash pan, so any condensation / creosote that happens at times, ran down and did not pool in the bottom of the firebox. It looked strong and simple.

 

[pipeboy]

crofter, i've been thinking about this an awful lot...probably too much for my wife, but i would think a sch. 40 48"dia. piece of pipe would make one hell of a fire box...almost bulletproof. just think it would be round...a feature that i would like, 5/8" thick, and if you really wanted to get fancy, you could reproduce central's ripple top (to add surface area to aid in heat exchange) just by cutting and welding in plate in the top. i like the idea of putting in a water filled baffle in the back and exiting through the rear for exhaust rather than the top. i can't beleive that some of these manufacturers weld in these chincy looking tube steel heat exchangers in the top of the fire box. i mean i would think that you are just begging for trouble with those welds. if i only had the time. long on dreams short on equipment and time...isn't that always the way??