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My 1988 dodge p/u has a stainless steel exhaust. It is magnetic so I assumed it is a 409 type.
Your very lucky. Thge sytem on my 2001 dodge is shot already. the tail pipe after the muffler has already rotted off and required welding to re attch. The rest of the sytem isnt any better and willl need replacing before next winter.

Also keep in mind that increasing your wall thickness decrease your heat transfer rate. From what I have seen and people I have talked to stainless wins hands down. off course stainless is no replacement for a good design. The round designs tend to have te pooling problems that Crofter mentioned and typicaly rot out from the botom from ash, and cresote holding in moisture. The heatmore I have is designed in a way that the bottom of the fire box doesnt hold any water. Basiclly the botom is a fire brick plkatform with a cast iron grate in the bottom for ash removal. The wallsand the roof of the box are the only parts that hold water. Ill see if I can post some pics to clarify tommorow.
 
Ben, regarding the heat transfer with the added thickness. Look up the heat transfer rates for stainless steel vs carbon steel.
The heat is not lost, only delayed, unless your stack temperature is going too high for lack of adequate dissipation surface area. Tre stainless stands up to the very corrosive drooling that so readily occurs in this type burner esp when burning green wet wood. Stainless has its tradeoffs though in cost, difficuty in manufacturing and difficulty with cracking where it transitions to any carbon steel. For someone contemplating making a unit themselves, carbon steel should not be dismissed especially if you can " find " a lot of the materials. Go thicker and make a larger water capacity so boiloff is not so critical for when your fire overshoots after shutdown. I have thought about more firebrick for better combustion, but wondered whether there was any risk of corrosive condensate building and being held behind it and actually accellerating corrosion rather than eliminating it. That is one aspect I don't remember seeing addressed.
 
Frank, I believe in most cases the satinlessstoves use a thinner gauge material to offset the loses you mentioned. As for the issue with fire brick that you pointed out. on my stove the area behind the brick doesnt have water behind it. The firebrick is used only to line the bottom of the firebox and just high enough to keep coals from contacting the boilers sides. In other words the boiler itself is boult above and around the firebox...if that makes any sense. As far as poor weld adhesion between stainless and non stainless pieces. The stove I have is all stainless so thats not a issue. One other thing unique about the design of the stoive I have is the fact that it is a semi closed sytem. It actually runs at a slightly positive pressure by using a expansion bladder and a weighted pop off valve. Its not open to the atmosphere so water loss and oxygen entering the sytem isnt a issue which helps with corrosion. I havent put any water in it since I filled it.
 
Ben that has some real good advantages. Where the fire bed is directly in contact with the180 deg water jacket it chills the fire and condenses moisture. Also more tendency to overshoot. It is those little things that all add together to make the difference between a good unit and a disaster; expensive disaster at that too.
 
Here is my system. The furnest is in the garage and 25 meters pipe in to 2x750 liter acc. tanks in the basement.

I have the one in the middle 40kw.
 
wow...how many times a day do you have to load that thing mange?? it seems to me that you've subscribed to the theory of complete combustion and storing the heat that's given off. i can't speak for anyone else, but i want to pack that sucker solid with wood and walk away for a min. of 12-14 hours!! i just can't see myself starting a new fire on a regular basis. that's kind of what i have now...i've got a jensen indoor boiler that i am going to get rid of in order not to have to haul in wood and smoke out my basement trying establish a draft.
 
The pint to this is to burn as good as possible, a short time, It takes 3 hours, almost every time, no smoke unless something goes wrong.
I am happy with it in summer I make a fire once a week, now in winter once a day if it is cold.
I can live with that.
 
it just looks like a tiny unit...how small do you have to split the wood....i would also imagine that it would have to be really dry wood.
 
I have the 55cm lengths wood, and they are splitted if they are more than 13 cm diameter, they get heavy otherwise.

Moisture is rekomended to be around 15-30%, really dry wood is about 13%

I will tell you boys some things I learned on the way.
I built this system myself. Pipes, Power, chimny, Hydraulic splitter, I did it all.
The time I spent studying for this and bying stuff was about 2 years

The higher temp the better it burns.
When the temps are optimat, all is burned, and a small amount of ashes, smoke temp about 275 degrees, as there is a flame under the "furnest" It burnes 2 times, one time konventionally, one time as gas (1750) degrees.
The flame should be close to blue, ore Blue/yellow.
NEVER any smoke!!!
Smoke indicate something is wrong.


I think i bored you enough now!!!
 
updated info

Hello, this has been interesting to say the least. Quite some reading from start to finish. I would like to clarify some inaccurate info at the beginning of the thread.
I have read a lot of references to the Classic. I have been operating a Classic for over six years. I heat three houses, a pool, and a shop with one CL7260. The 30X40 door makes it very easy to load and clean. It is 100% original equipment since the day I bought it.
The Classic warranty compared to the Heatmor is by far superior. First, the pro-rated part of the corrosion coverage covers a higher percentage for a longer period. Second, The $800 dollar shipping is ridiculous, Central boiler will pick up the unit and you are only responsible for return freight, usually less than $350. The door and welds are warrantied for twenty five years. If stainless is so great why is the Heatmore warranty only ten years total. Classics can be field serviced by dealers without voiding the warranty, but depending on field inspection, they may want to repair it at the factory so the real cause of failure may be determined. Usually this is found to be neglect of common sense maintenance, or burning garbage, or waste oil. Third continual water loss is a minimum because of the still vent design, most owners add very little if any water once a year. The chemicals are very inexpensive probably comparable to changing an anode rod. Any wood combustion with a shut down mode will will produce acid which will embed itself in the creosote in every stove. The ashtrol is just common sense to make any stove last as long as possible, by neutralizing acidity. Lastly, for now, there are independent lab test performed by Wornok Hersey that prove the Classic firebox to deliver more Btu's per pound of wood than the other top five leading outdoor wood furnaces. 25 - 47% More.
So in short simple is better, easier to load, less parts, easier to clean and more efficient. Oh, the door solenoid is Grainger Part# 4x240. Good day
 
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The more efficancy claim is highly questionable IMO as none of these wood boilers can be called anything remotely close to efficiant. As for the warranty you only need it if you have a classic! They probaly enjoy the reputation of being the lowest quality in the industry from the sives I have seen.
 
bwalker said:
The more efficancy claim is highly questionable IMO as none of these wood boilers can be called anything remotely close to efficiant. As for the warranty you only need it if you have a classic! They probaly enjoy the reputation of being the lowest quality in the industry from the sives I have seen.

Does this apply to the furnest I posted?
If it does, Please let me know, since this is the best availeble here regarding efficancy.
 
I do not understand the question, Johnboy.
Do you mean wood storage, or heat?
The wood i have stapled outside with a so so cover. I do not want it too dry, since I will want quite a bit of moisture in the wood. I will add water if it is too dry. This sounds weird I know, I thought so too. If you have High temps in the flame with too little oxygen The temp will go down a bit and smoke appears. The best way to get in more oxygen is water, I tried a bit of everything.

If you bean Heat, I have the acc. tanks in the basement, one with hot water boiler in, and one just for acc.
Thease work as battery's, I charge the tanks and take heat from them long after the boiler is out.
We have temps here down to -30 degrees rarly, but still. i have never had to set more than one fire a day, in averege every 3:d day.

Here is some pics of the system installed.
 
It was a heat storage question. I'm a bit obsessed with this idea and plan to order my system soon. It will have 2000 us gallon storage. This should be more than enough to heat my 3 buildings.

Thanks
jb
 

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