overfired

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v-ridge

ArboristSite Member
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Nov 12, 2011
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villa ridge mo
hey guys, i picked up some raw oak flooring scraps at work yesterday. i put 4 pieces in about 16" long 3/4"x3 1/2". when my son went to check the stove about 15 min later, he came running out of the basement yelling dad! dad! the stove is overfired. the rutland burn indicator on the front was at 700* f and the stove had been closed as tight as possible. my question is does anyone know if that unfinished flooring is treated with some kind of chemical? i have never seen that small amount of wood burn that hot before.
 
just kiln dried and no chemical, safe to continue to burn in small amounts?

Yep, dry as bone. Good hardwood lumber has very low moisture content - 4-8% is often considered ideal (depends on species and etc). Good hardwood firewood is 15-20% (and you can go to 20-25% and get by). So you're basically burning a big stack of printer paper there. It'll burn very hot and very fast.
 
ok thank you guys. next time i'll just put a piece on at a time and maybe it won't run away on me. that was kind of a time to panic moment! i was stuffing steel wool and leather gloves around all the intake openings to calm it down!
 
Oh, and in case you're worried about chemicals, don't be. Unfinished hardwood lumber is very rarely treated with anything because it's almost always used indoors and doesn't need to resist rot, insects, etc. Most chemicals produce unwanted color changes that furniture and flooring manufacturers (and homeowners) wouldn't want, and they'd have to provide all sorts of disclosures - floors get sanded, sanding releases dust, dust with chemicals in it produces adverse health effects, and adverse health effects produce the US legal system. And finally, lumber that IS treated with something is almost invariably required to be marked/labeled (CCA, ACQ, etc.)

That's one of the reasons hardwood makes such good flooring. You don't NEED to do anything to it. (Note: I wouldn't burn finished lumber unless I knew for sure what it was - shellac is ok, but some of the UV-cured polymers can release bad things when burned. I also wouldn't burn actual furniture. Flooring scraps are likely to be from local sources - it's so cheap to get red oak in the US, why would you import it? But lots of furniture is made in Asia out of lumber harvested there - and is often fumigated with formaldehyde to kill insects for to meet export requirements.)
 
It may not have been as hot as the thermometer was reading. I have the same thermometer stuck on the side of my Englander and I find it reads between 50-100 degrees hot depending on what part of the scale it is on. It's is based on comparing it with my non contact infrared thermometer.

I pretty regularly burn my stove at 700 degrees on the Rutland thermometer and I see no signs of over firing on the stove (discoloration, warped secondary pipes, poping/creaking). If I don't keep it at the top of the "burn zone" it smokes. It doesn't even start to smell hot until an indicated 800 degrees which is when I start to cut the draft.

I'm not telling you to fill the stove with scraps and let it rip, but I wouldn't hesitate to burn it a little at a time or for kindling

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Just throw some hard to light stuff in with it, then you will be fine when starting. A solid log heavy log, stringy elm, for example. Stuff that burns great when there is a hot fire, but no good trying to start one with.
 
the picture streblerm took is about where mine was at. i have never had it get out of the burn zone, and have loaded it pretty heavy with 2 year dry splits of hardwood before. i saw no signs of damage, and the chimney says its rated for 2100* f for 3 10 min intervals, but not to use any kind of chemical as it can cause corrosion. but since its clean the rest is going in. thank you all again.
 
Yep, dry as bone. Good hardwood lumber has very low moisture content - 4-8% is often considered ideal (depends on species and etc). Good hardwood firewood is 15-20% (and you can go to 20-25% and get by). So you're basically burning a big stack of printer paper there. It'll burn very hot and very fast.

For some strange reason a stack of paper will not burn well in my stove... while really dry wood does.

John
 
For some strange reason a stack of paper will not burn well in my stove... while really dry wood does.

That was a joke. =) How about a pile of noodles?

Wood noodles, not pasta noodles.

Dry wood noodles.

Dry pine noodles.

Or something.
 
Oak flooring scraps are great for starters and kindling. I wouldn't suggest tossing a load of 'em in your stove at once though. They're very dry and can roar out of control in a hurry.

When I lived in VA there was an oak flooring plant down the road from my house. They had a mountain of scraps on the lot, would sell you a pickup load for $10.00 loaded. It was clean, unfinished, smooth and dry.

I had a couple cords of half-seasoned tulip poplar and maple at the time. Man, that oak flooring was some kinda nice for getting poor firewood up and going. Only needed to use a few pieces at a time. That pickup load lasted 2 years. :)
 
Mines older and pretty thick and I get it up to $700 quite often with good seasoned red oak. Then shut it down and goes to 750 before setting in at 450-550. Makes for a very comfortable setting when it's 10 degrees or zero out here in MD.

What everyone else said. Use a little at a time, use it to help wood that's not that great/dry, use it for quick heat up of stove and room.

Enjoy.
 
Not a problem with my shop stove. I messed up and didn't bother setting aside enough decent wood (my house has a pellet stove). Punky Doug fir and not-quite-seasoned walnut doesn't give as much heat as the ponderosa pine I started the winter with.:(
 
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