I need some suggestions on what to do with my owb. I am starting a new job and I know I will be working over a lot. The thing is my owb will only last at best 10hrs for me. I currently have the 2 thermostats hooked up so if the wood boiler goes out my furnace will kick on. What happens though is when the house up to temp with the gas furnace running the blower keeps going and that just sucks the cool air in. What I would want to do is if the owb water gets cool it shuts down and then the gas furnace just runs till i get home and can make everything right again.
owb fire goes out
- Thread starter JBolds442
- Start date
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wood etc.
The only way to solve this is with a thermocouple in the stack and wire it in the fan circuit but the issue of the circulating pump is the gorilla in the closet as it will have ot be wired in as well to shut it off(someone from the forum can help here I am sure or you can post it on the www.heatinghelp.com forum.
The pump will operate on the demand from the home and a second thermocouple may be set up to denergise the pump circuit if the stack temp is below a 120 degrees I suppose but I am no expert and I am the first one to to tell you that I am not an expert :jawdrop:
Both the pump(s) and squirrel cage fan are normally closed contacts and de-energised when demand ends in most cases.
Loading the firebox half full of fire brick does wonders for stoiring heat mass and releasing it slowly and that may be a better option for you as the thermostat will be calling for heat at a much slower rate due to the firebrick sucking up all the heat made by the fire and releasing it in the firebox.
please lt us now what brand of boiler you have and if you have have coal grates or not as the bricks lacing will have to be done properly if it does not have coal grates to permit air to enter the fire box and burn hotter to use less wood in the boiler and keep a fire going longer with less smoke.
The only way to solve this is with a thermocouple in the stack and wire it in the fan circuit but the issue of the circulating pump is the gorilla in the closet as it will have ot be wired in as well to shut it off(someone from the forum can help here I am sure or you can post it on the www.heatinghelp.com forum.
The pump will operate on the demand from the home and a second thermocouple may be set up to denergise the pump circuit if the stack temp is below a 120 degrees I suppose but I am no expert and I am the first one to to tell you that I am not an expert :jawdrop:
Both the pump(s) and squirrel cage fan are normally closed contacts and de-energised when demand ends in most cases.
Loading the firebox half full of fire brick does wonders for stoiring heat mass and releasing it slowly and that may be a better option for you as the thermostat will be calling for heat at a much slower rate due to the firebrick sucking up all the heat made by the fire and releasing it in the firebox.
please lt us now what brand of boiler you have and if you have have coal grates or not as the bricks lacing will have to be done properly if it does not have coal grates to permit air to enter the fire box and burn hotter to use less wood in the boiler and keep a fire going longer with less smoke.
NC4AB
ArboristSite Member
Add a Snap-Disc thermostat inline in the low voltage circuit that operates your OWB circulator pump. This type of thermostat stays closed as long as your water temperature is above ~100F, when the water temperature drops the thermostat opens and keeps the pump from coming on.
The thermostat will run you about $11.00 at WW Grainger (P/N 2E245). The thermostat needs to be attached to the OWB (preferably directly on the water storage tank near the top) so it will read the water temperature. Grainger sells a mounting bracket for another $4.00 or so.
PM me if you need more info.
The thermostat will run you about $11.00 at WW Grainger (P/N 2E245). The thermostat needs to be attached to the OWB (preferably directly on the water storage tank near the top) so it will read the water temperature. Grainger sells a mounting bracket for another $4.00 or so.
PM me if you need more info.
Last edited:
Butch(OH)
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am not sure how much they cost through parts or if they will adapt to your boiler but the controller in the Woodmaster brand will do exactly what you are asking and has adjustable set points.
Not the purpose of this forum but I would disagree on gates.
I would look more at the pipe in the ground, I have seen 50% increase in burn times just using better pipe.
what used to be 2 times a day is now less than once a day just changing pipe.
It could also be the boiler is way undersized for the application.
I also wonder how long the furnace would be running between loads a couple of hours or a long time. I have never really seen my boiler go out there was also coals and the temp rarely would ever drop below 120 even when left without wood during the coldest parts of the winter the coals keep the temp at least usable.
Just my 2 cents.
I would look more at the pipe in the ground, I have seen 50% increase in burn times just using better pipe.
what used to be 2 times a day is now less than once a day just changing pipe.
It could also be the boiler is way undersized for the application.
I also wonder how long the furnace would be running between loads a couple of hours or a long time. I have never really seen my boiler go out there was also coals and the temp rarely would ever drop below 120 even when left without wood during the coldest parts of the winter the coals keep the temp at least usable.
Just my 2 cents.
Its a central wood boiler and the pipe I have is the thermo pex ....what it is is the house is too drafty for the boiler, mixed with what wood I can get is just not the greatest wood but I use what I can and for the most part it is okay I just have to give it the attention it needs. ON the really cold days I fill it 3 times I have did everything I can to keep things hot from boiler to furnace. I have came home and had non thing but ashes. However the disk thermostat is the best option put it directly on the intake pipe and when the pipe is below 100 its off and the furnace kicks on like normal.
Alan Smith
ArboristSite Operative
house is too drafty
well i thought my house was the draftiest. Cement Block with 2 inch insulation.
The coldest part of last winter and we put 17 pieces of 20 inch long oak and locust and it would burn 24 hours heat 1700 sq. ft. and 2 water heaters. Using 5036 Central Boiler with 35 feet of thermoplex.
well i thought my house was the draftiest. Cement Block with 2 inch insulation.
The coldest part of last winter and we put 17 pieces of 20 inch long oak and locust and it would burn 24 hours heat 1700 sq. ft. and 2 water heaters. Using 5036 Central Boiler with 35 feet of thermoplex.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
My hardy has a fairly large firebox and small water tank(about 100gal)depending on wood type and quality i can get 20hr burn time with hickory/white oak or locust and as little 10 with sweet gum,catalpa,willow etc.
It usually doesnt get that cold here though.
I would think turning the thermostat down when leaving for work would increase the burn time some.I cant because wife is disabled and does not work.
It usually doesnt get that cold here though.
I would think turning the thermostat down when leaving for work would increase the burn time some.I cant because wife is disabled and does not work.
Humm I am not as familiar with CB but here are some thoughts:
1. Can you extended or slow the burn and increase the burn times? by reducing the air intake or slowing the exhaust?
2. I assume it is natural draft do that have a induction fan option.
3. Add more water storage you can do this by adding additional water tanks in line. This one would allow you to feed the boiler more often when you are available and provides more btu when you are not. Thus extending the burn times.
I hate for a boiler owner to have to use gas.
1. Can you extended or slow the burn and increase the burn times? by reducing the air intake or slowing the exhaust?
2. I assume it is natural draft do that have a induction fan option.
3. Add more water storage you can do this by adding additional water tanks in line. This one would allow you to feed the boiler more often when you are available and provides more btu when you are not. Thus extending the burn times.
I hate for a boiler owner to have to use gas.
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
All you are heating is your house and you only get 10 hours of burn time? Either your house has no insulation whatsoever or you have some major heat loss somewhere in your system.
Even the smallest unit CB makes should be able to heat a house with a 14 hour burn time. Your pipes may be too deep (into the water table) or too shallow. I would suggest extra insulation on the OWB but CB's spray foam insulation is pretty good.
Also it sounds like a couple hundred dollars worth of blown in insulation in your house might do a world of good
Even the smallest unit CB makes should be able to heat a house with a 14 hour burn time. Your pipes may be too deep (into the water table) or too shallow. I would suggest extra insulation on the OWB but CB's spray foam insulation is pretty good.
Also it sounds like a couple hundred dollars worth of blown in insulation in your house might do a world of good
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