OWB Owners, what's your set point?

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I don't know all the details, but I've read that boiler return temps should be above 140 degrees or condensation will form on the firebox where the return water hits it and cause an acid that will eat the steel in a hurry, and green wood makes it worse. This probably isn't an issue with stainless steel stoves though.
 
I don't know all the details, but I've read that boiler return temps should be above 140 degrees or condensation will form on the firebox where the return water hits it and cause an acid that will eat the steel in a hurry, and green wood makes it worse. This probably isn't an issue with stainless steel stoves though.

haven't heard that...hmmm, I'll check into that. HEY!!! Ellettsville, me too wow, nice to "meet" ya!!!
 
I wonder if most of you that are running lower temps 140-150 range are using HX and the ones with higher temps are using hot water baseboard ?? Is there a connection there . I have the hot water baseboard and it seems like that kind of system needs 170- 180 when things get cold or it just doesn't heat well and the circulator runs way to much because the lower temp water isn't keeping up .
 
haven't heard that...hmmm, I'll check into that. HEY!!! Ellettsville, me too wow, nice to "meet" ya!!!

Hey neighbor! It's not too often I run accross someone in the same town via internet:clap: I'm not actually IN Ellettsville. I'm kinda between Ellettsville and Stinesville in the sticks.

Nice tractor BTW.
 
I run my Taylor as hot as I can without boiling.On at 165 off at 185.After it turns off the fan the fire still burns a little and usually goes up to about 195 to 200. The fire still burns a little cause I had to change the fan and I put a bigger fan and a small amount of air is coming through the opening on the fan. It smokes a lot less if you don't choke it completely down and the pumps and fans run a lot less when the water is hot. It takes electricity to run the pumps and fans. Saves on the electric bill. Keeping it hot keeps the creosote down and the pipes clean.
 
I wonder if most of you that are running lower temps 140-150 range are using HX and the ones with higher temps are using hot water baseboard ?? Is there a connection there . I have the hot water baseboard and it seems like that kind of system needs 170- 180 when things get cold or it just doesn't heat well and the circulator runs way to much because the lower temp water isn't keeping up .

It does need 170-180, cuz that's what it was designed for...probably XXX/ft. of baseboard to keep the house at 70 deg. @ 0 deg. outside. Figure 400-600 BTUH per foot of BB. You might get by with the lower supply temps during fall/spring.
 
I set my Mahoning at 145 for summer but now its at 165 for the colder temps. Haven't had to raise it any higher yet, but I expect to.
 
During the summer and thru the fall I had settings of 155 on and 160 off. The OWB was being used mostly for DHW and minimal heat. This seemed to work very well for a while then, when the temps got colder and more demand was put on the OWB, it was cycling a great deal. I had a theory that I might be better off with a greater temp spread and get more effective burn times. It always smoked a lot when it first comes on then clears up after it gets going after a while. My thinking was I was getting my most efficient burns toward the end of the cycle.
I changed my spread to 9 degrees and raised the off temp to 164. I does not cycle as many times now and I believe I am getting for effective use of what wood I am using. I don't seem do be using any more wood even tho the outside temps have dropped a good deal since I made the change. It has only been about three days since making the change so, the jury is still out until I get more time with these settings. I does look good at this point.
I wish there was some way to get accurate info on settings and their effectiveness on each OWB. I just don't know what would be a good method of measurement.
 
During the summer and thru the fall I had settings of 155 on and 160 off. The OWB was being used mostly for DHW and minimal heat. This seemed to work very well for a while then, when the temps got colder and more demand was put on the OWB, it was cycling a great deal. I had a theory that I might be better off with a greater temp spread and get more effective burn times. It always smoked a lot when it first comes on then clears up after it gets going after a while. My thinking was I was getting my most efficient burns toward the end of the cycle.
I changed my spread to 9 degrees and raised the off temp to 164. I does not cycle as many times now and I believe I am getting for effective use of what wood I am using. I don't seem do be using any more wood even tho the outside temps have dropped a good deal since I made the change. It has only been about three days since making the change so, the jury is still out until I get more time with these settings. I does look good at this point.
I wish there was some way to get accurate info on settings and their effectiveness on each OWB. I just don't know what would be a good method of measurement.


mine acts the best @ 20f spread.....160 to 180 winter and 140 to 180 summer.....load once a week in summer and from 12 to 24 hours in winter dependin' on temp out side...
 
moved the set point on the 5036 from 175f to 180f yesterday. Just starting to get cold enough to notice i'm using more wood now. When night temps go to low 20s then i will move the set point up to the 185f factory setting. Does anyone run it higher on a regular basis? The cb owners manual states you can safely set it up to 195f. I find that lowering the set point in fall and spring can add up to some significant wood savings.:blob2:

140-170
 
My ACME is set at 145 and have not touched it since I started it and I heat 5200 sq ft with it.
 
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