ft. churchill
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I've seen the at either home depot or lowes I believe.
Partner Chainsaw Thread
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Banjo fitting is see some on ebay, how do i know which one to get? what size is this one?
toddol1971
ArboristSite Operative
You need a veneer caliper to measure the inside diam. I think jegs, summit etc carries banjo fittings. Just google it. Probably a supply house somewhere. You just need the measurement first. GL
toddol1971
ArboristSite Operative
figure it out yet. You can get calipers at harbor freight for 10 or 20 bucks. fyi
i measured the banjo fitting 9.65 mm or .375" ID, the banjo bolt is 7.8mm or .3" OD
toddol1971
ArboristSite Operative
did you find any yet
toddol1971
ArboristSite Operative
What he didnt say^
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Early VW fuel injection on rabbits etc used alot of metal banjo fittings. Two or three different sizes. They are in the range of what might be needed.
R12 ok, i have the fuel tank sealed up and the saw back together and still cannot get fuel to flow into the carburetor. I have fuel from the fuel line and if i drip fuel in the carburetor through the choke opening the saw will run and idle great. I have had the carb apart several times and everything looks correct. What am i missing? Help! this saw runs great but can't get the fuel to flow to the carb.
toddol1971
ArboristSite Operative
I just ported the S65. Thing runs awesome. It had an original problem with not oiling. I took everything apart and cleaned it. disassembled the oil pump blew threw all orifices with brake cleaner, reassembled, greased the internals etc. When its running without b/c it oils good. When b/c is on it just doesnt seem to throw oil like I like to see. Yes bar is clean. Any ideas? I wish it had a worm gear oiler with adjustment. Another thing, I went to put my cannon 20" b/c on it from my 372xp and its to long. Why is that? Rim on 372, spur on s65 both 7 pin 3/8's. I will post this in chainsaw forum also
Hi folks.
I pulled this carb off of a P100 I am just tearing into. HS 172A.
Is there a missing high speed governor valve and gasket? I am not certain how these carbs were set-up. I have seen the HS with the fixed high speed.
Thanks
I pulled this carb off of a P100 I am just tearing into. HS 172A.
Is there a missing high speed governor valve and gasket? I am not certain how these carbs were set-up. I have seen the HS with the fixed high speed.
Thanks
Yep. The governor is missing. I couldn't find a parts list for a 172A but there is one for the 172B
The governor and gasket PN for the 172B which is also listed for the P100 if that's any help is,
26 High Speed-Governor Valve 361-525
27 High Speed-Governor Valve Gasket 16B-204
You could always give them a call and ask.
Master Warehouse:
V.E Petersen Company, Inc
28101 East Broadway
P.O Box 615
Walbridge, Ohio 43465
Tel: 419-838-5911
800-537-6212 U.S
Fax: 419-838-7405
e-mail: [email protected]
For a list of local dealers, click here or contact VE Peterson. VE Petersen also stock a variety of vintage carburetors and repair kits.
Failing that, You could always plug the hole is you if you can find the correct thread pitch. You would need to block it all the way down with a piece of gasket in the bottom.
The governor and gasket PN for the 172B which is also listed for the P100 if that's any help is,
26 High Speed-Governor Valve 361-525
27 High Speed-Governor Valve Gasket 16B-204
You could always give them a call and ask.
Master Warehouse:
V.E Petersen Company, Inc
28101 East Broadway
P.O Box 615
Walbridge, Ohio 43465
Tel: 419-838-5911
800-537-6212 U.S
Fax: 419-838-7405
e-mail: [email protected]
For a list of local dealers, click here or contact VE Peterson. VE Petersen also stock a variety of vintage carburetors and repair kits.
Failing that, You could always plug the hole is you if you can find the correct thread pitch. You would need to block it all the way down with a piece of gasket in the bottom.
Thanks for the info Tim. I see that the valve for the 172B is available but not the gasket according to some online suppliers. Nonetheless, I will contact Tillotson.
Any idea how those valves work. I am not sure of the function in addition to the non-fixed H needle to be able moderate RPM? Makes them run fatter? I can't seem to cram enough learning into my windows of opportunity.
As a side bar, I've a shelved f55 that specs for a 174B but is equipped with a Walbro. Maybe a direct swap?
I believe that the governors work by being sensitive to a certain harmonic that would be when the saw over rev's due to a lean condition or too high of a no load speed and opens to allow more fuel into the carb to richen the mixture. Tillotson has a good explanation somewhere on their site.
That's why they say you should always tune saws with governed carbs in wood.
They act up sometimes and stick open so some drop a 1/4" (hole punch size) piece of pop or beer can under the valve to disable them. I think you could do that with a threaded plug.
HS, SDC and some Zama's (c3's I think) should interchange with the correct model, linkage cranks and chokes. Homelite used all three on the same models at one time or another.
That's why they say you should always tune saws with governed carbs in wood.
They act up sometimes and stick open so some drop a 1/4" (hole punch size) piece of pop or beer can under the valve to disable them. I think you could do that with a threaded plug.
HS, SDC and some Zama's (c3's I think) should interchange with the correct model, linkage cranks and chokes. Homelite used all three on the same models at one time or another.
Cory, that governor has a ball and spring in it and is setup so when the saw reaches a certain harmonics it will let the ball come off its seat and just dumps raw fuel into the venturi to basically flood the saw and thus slow it down.
The link Tim gave is a good place to maybe find it, but be aware they have a set shipping fee anymore and it will cost more the the governor to get it, let alone what it will be extra to get it to Cunkistan.
So you know the gasket is actually a copper sealing ring that the governor screws down tight against.
Those old governors can also malfunction and cause problems. I got a habit of just blocking them all off and not worrying about them.
I just take a gasket punch and punch out a aluminum disc from a old disposable pie plate or such, drop it in the carb, put the copper sealing ring in and then screw the governor in place.
No more problems that way and you can tune the saw easier that way as well.
That style governor is used on a bunch of Tillitson carbs, even HL's. Yeah they have different part numbers and may be setup internally different but if your going to block it off, any ole one will work.
The link Tim gave is a good place to maybe find it, but be aware they have a set shipping fee anymore and it will cost more the the governor to get it, let alone what it will be extra to get it to Cunkistan.
So you know the gasket is actually a copper sealing ring that the governor screws down tight against.
Those old governors can also malfunction and cause problems. I got a habit of just blocking them all off and not worrying about them.
I just take a gasket punch and punch out a aluminum disc from a old disposable pie plate or such, drop it in the carb, put the copper sealing ring in and then screw the governor in place.
No more problems that way and you can tune the saw easier that way as well.
That style governor is used on a bunch of Tillitson carbs, even HL's. Yeah they have different part numbers and may be setup internally different but if your going to block it off, any ole one will work.
Sorry Tim, I'm a slow typer tonight. 
Thanks for following up there Mark. I really appreciate it.
I will see if I can track down a used/faulty one and just block it off. That, or as Tim suggested, figure out the thread pitch and use a threaded plug. Getting OEM stuff into Canada is getting costly.
Side Note: Out of curiosity, I pulled my r440 off of the shelf because I could not recall what set-up was on it. It has an HS 117A as far as I could tell. No governor that I could see, and a unique choke mechanism that depressed the metering diaphragm through the cover. I haven't been around long enough to know any different but I thought that was a pretty cool feature.
I will see if I can track down a used/faulty one and just block it off. That, or as Tim suggested, figure out the thread pitch and use a threaded plug. Getting OEM stuff into Canada is getting costly.
Side Note: Out of curiosity, I pulled my r440 off of the shelf because I could not recall what set-up was on it. It has an HS 117A as far as I could tell. No governor that I could see, and a unique choke mechanism that depressed the metering diaphragm through the cover. I haven't been around long enough to know any different but I thought that was a pretty cool feature.
My R440T had that plastic lever also. Notice I said had? It was so old and brittle it broke off the first time I tried to use it. No biggie really.
I'm keeping my eyes open for another P100 carb myself. The one on my PM1000 is kinda strange acting and would like to try another on it.
If you figure out the thread pitch and size for a plug, just remember is should be flat and the bottom and should have to bottom out at the bottom of the well to seal it off.
I'm keeping my eyes open for another P100 carb myself. The one on my PM1000 is kinda strange acting and would like to try another on it.
If you figure out the thread pitch and size for a plug, just remember is should be flat and the bottom and should have to bottom out at the bottom of the well to seal it off.
