Pine Trees in my back yard

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joejoeky

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ky
I have 5 of these in my back yard. They were planted 5 in a row straight across. How tall will they get ? They are pretty tall now.
Should I do anything (prune back) to them ? Do they withstand wind gusts ?
 
No pruning required only remove dead stubs and limbs

Looks like the one in the photo is happy

The roots intertwine with each other contributing to the stability
of the trees.

The trees may need to be inspected by a Certified Arborist for Pine bores. With those trees planted in a line all together, if one
tree gets infested the others may follow if left unchecked.

:)
 
Yes, Norm's pruning idea sounds good. The form is nice looking, and it's amazing how much the air circulation can be improved through one of those by just removing dead growth.
 
Ditto to the above; and add...

By the time they're big enough to be a problem, it'll be MY kid taking them down for YOUR kid... we'll be long since buried.
 
Originally posted by netree
By the time they're big enough to be a problem, it'll be MY kid taking them down for YOUR kid... we'll be long since buried.
Agree with all the rest, but wonder if ky gets a bad icestorm, will there be branch breakage?

When limbs grow into newly-cleared areas (like your homesite), they can get too heavy on the ends and break in storms. While you're having dead wood removed by a pro, s/he should look at LIGHT reduction of sprawling limbs. ;)

No more than 5-10% of crown by the looks of the pic, and if you don't have a PRO to reduce limbs right, best not to do it at all.

Erik I wonder if the wait-til-they're-a-problem-then-cut-em-down idea :eek: is best. Good tree surgery will delay the day he has to call a tree murderer.:blob2:
 
I didn't suggest a trim wasn't in order... I suggested that removing them would be foolish. I'd expect you of all people to know the difference.

;)
 
5-10% is hacking? Down here we get major :eek: limb breakage on pines in ice storms. KY is the same. FL gets none so maybe you don't have the perspective on this one. Joeker it would really help to know what kind of pines they are, tho they all can all lose limbs to storms.

O and all I smoke is a peace pipe, nothing carcinogenic or illegal, thanks.:p

Erik I think we agree, up to the point of needing removal. My point is that the trees may well outlive our children if they get gentle and consistent care. "Let it be" doesn't help all urban trees. Light reduction cuts on individual sprawling limbs does not equal whole crown reduction.

Gee it's nice to be back!:)
 
Remember kids, we're going by a 2-D pic on a 15" screen. Hard to judge what is good structure. On second look, shape is pretty symmetrical; maybe 2-5%. My point is that if heavy branch ends protrude from the canopy in a position to catch a load of Nature, the right thing to do is to lightly shorten them.

No cut without a reason. No dose too great. Too bad pines don't take up cambistat well; a tree in this spot may be a candidate.

Re deadwooding, that's lessening dampening effect; what about that?
 
gee guy,some things are best left ALONE why ruin the shape now,20 years on remove and replace if need be,crown reduction just another name for topping
 
Originally posted by aussie_lopa
gee guy,some things are best left ALONE why ruin the shape now,20 years on remove and replace if need be,crown reduction just another name for topping

I think it was Che who said trees somehow have an inherent wisdom to take care of themselves. Unfortunately most humans do not.

A good reduction is not topping though I think is frequently pointless. Reducing the length of something in the name of subordination is completely different IMHO.
 
It's nice to finally get some feedback on that article. Accurately referenced feedback would be even better.
Originally posted by Mike Maas
He has also been a long standing advocate of crown reduction, even on perfectly flawless trees.
Nope, never reduced a branch without a defect. The notion that there is a "perfectly flawless" tree shows the defect in your argument and the bias in your thinking; there is no such thing as a perfectly flawless anything.

Like you I love standing before a magnificent specimen and telling the client there is no reason to have it pruned. But yes I do look closely and consider the future and on some trees if shortening a branch may avoid an event that may hurt tree or person yes I do make a cut out near the tip.

his new type of topping (done with heading cuts at nodes) will have to be renamed, although the goal and appearance will remain the same.
Way off, again. THe trees in the article were all topped by Mother Nature before I got there. Look again at the picture on page 10. Where would you have made the cuts on the 2 broken central leaders? Nowhere, because the tree is "flawless"? Dropcrotch to a substantial lateral, like the dumbed-down FEMA rules would have it? Or just "remove and replace" soon as lopa and erik talk about? Cmon, use the wisdom under that grey hair and tell us.

Arborists facilitate the coexistence of trees and people. That means it's our job to keep the trees existing, to help them last as long as possible, not just leave them alone until they get removed.

Nathan yes reduction to mitigate a defect is like subordination; often it IS subordination. Overall crown reductionto make a tree smaller is rarely justified; every cut needs a good reason. I do advocate selective branch reduction **per ANSI** but Maas keeps hearing that as whole tree reduction. Way off.

Sometimes these longer branches are broken because they are exposed to wind or snow. But sometimes, it's the short limbs that break.
Not here on our loblollies etc., not by my experience. long branches wiht heavy ends exposed to wind are most often damaged. Failure can be predicted and if the risk is high it is our job to lessen it. No we are not perfect in our judgments but no that does not mean we should sit on our hands until we can call in the removal crew.

Embracing change is energizing; fearing change is paralyzing.

Love to chat more but I'm packing my bags for Charlie's party. Gonna stub back damaged limbs and keep some trees free from cold-blooded, closed-minded tree murderers; buy them some decades anyway. Later!
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
So predicting failure of limbs based on their length is a tricky proposition, much like picking stocks.
Absolutely true. Girth, angle, inclusion, exposure, decay/cracks, number location and size of laterals, all matter, and species. White pines are very different from loblollies, so again it is our geographic differences at work here more than philosophical/technical differences. :heart:

But I still want to hear what you'd have done with the two central leaders on page 10. *On task, please!* :rolleyes:. If you want to see em in real life come down anytime; I took the pic from my deck.

O and my kid's taking economics too--10th grade. I've heard :Monkey:s can write like Shakespeare, so no surprise they can outpick most stockbrokers. They'd be more honest than most too.:p
 
Guy changed my mind on part of it with the storm damage extreme example; but only as an extreme measure for extreme times in the far curve of the model; not as standard practice. Moderation in all; a place and time for everything; it has widened my scope to the sense of that possibiblity.

Some things are region/species specific; or even favorite trees etc. to our observations. Guy talks of snow? and Loblollies; i think in colors of a live oak eating voraciously in a tropical land of plenty.

The whole crown thinning thing for more light etc.; well we get plenty of light, year round.... But, on the counter side:)eek: me?); i think that would invite more mistletoe and moss, by the opening in the territory/biosphere! Like, in a woods, such a cap could keep a genetic strain acclimating to the area and conditions for 1000's of years; sealing other pollens etc. out? Then we come along, and change every condition we can that was whispered to the tree in it's genetics about wind, light, air, water, soil, defending agianst all comers as the king in size....
 
you must look like popeye sawing up hurricane damage with a handsaw guy,whats so bad with chainys!:laugh:
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
You've spoken often of crown reductions in the past, Crown reduction + heading cuts = topping.
I guess I haven't been clear enough; when I talk about crown reduction I mean individual branches per need, not overall except rarely. Hugely sprawling pecans get most side branches brought in but even with them the top is left alone, for instance. Plus, your equation leaves out what ANSI calls "predetermined", which implies nonselective and even internodal, which I do not do.

after the storm topped the tree, wouldn't it have been better to remove the hangers and broken limbs but leave the cutting back to nodes until the second visit, when you will be back to thin out the adventitious growth?
Then at that time you'd be simply cutting deadwood back to live growth, saving even more living limb! The best place to cut would be clearly marked by the line betwen living and dead wood, instead of guessing where the node clumps are.
You are right, the nodes are easy to spot after the latent buds sprout. However, if the jagged ends are exposed , that is a much larger infection court. During the years (3?) before thinning, decay seems certain to make heavier inroads into the branch, likely breaking through the branch protection zone at the node that is the target. :eek: So more limb would be lost, not saved.

I do follow the waitandsee strategy on some ends that are really hard to get to, figuring the increased amount of decay was not worth the time and expense of getting out there twice. But on most I think it's best to clean it asap. Larger and more vertical-facing wounds especially.;)

Finding nodes on most branches is really not guesswork if you're at all familiar with the species. Wrinkles look like collars, bulges are distinct. Any old branch scar is a terminal node, a natural target. If there's no bad rot there, it's a no-brainer to cut there. And some latent buds are visible to the naked :Eye: , even mine.

Thanks for the feedback; I need more of that.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
The jagged ends and wood that lies between the jagged ends and point where the limb will eventually be cut, act as a plug to slow advancing wood decay fungi, giving the tree time to set up boundries.
Here in NC rot moves quicker than in WI, so that jagged damaged wood is a a breeding ground for decay orgs. Once their numbers are built up, and aided by the increased moisture and pollutants collected by the jagged ends and cracked/damaged wood, they can break through these "plugs".

Bear in mind too that codit boundaries are best formed at nodes, where phenols and compacted xylem form a branch protection zone. Tissue left outside these zones is a negative. Nowhere in these damaged oaks have I seen evidence of codit boundaries or plugging between nodes.

Anyone besides Mike have thoughts on this?
 
i guess i too live under more of a tropical humidty model that lends towards a torn cut having more area to boundary, and more places for noxious organisms to hide. Once again a balance to where the lines between the racing of sealing vs. decay in different conditions, to realize all players.

i think everything points to having an open mind to all pieces of the puzzle, and views from different areas showing tendencies under diffeent conditions; but clues to the whole process, that neither alone fully encompasses. Considerations; that a customer pays for, in trust that you know what you are doing to this highest reasonable understandings; that might be region and species specific in some cases.
 
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