Piston and Cylinder Brands: The Good, Bad, and Ugly

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Thank you for the post & replies. I have a 028 that neighbor, hit the ground with sharp chain, and worked the saw too hard with 50:1 when it was tuned to 32:1. It is scored will start cold, but not restart when hot or run continuous. Exhaust removal shows some scoring.... it was a nice clean homeowners saw. VERY clean parts or put a cylinder & piston?? It is a 028 wb, and I have two 028 supers. I did not know about the hyway kits.

When you get the saw, I have a suggestion. Put some lubrication on top of piston and leave it be for a few days. The 3/8" or 1/4" black metal pipe pre taper threaded pcs are cheap at menards or home depot have "tapered threads" and will thread into the spark plug hole...... buy hand ....... you do not want to damage the spark plug threads. On the other end of the threaded pipe ext in the 6" range I mount what ever Quick Disconnect Air Fitting you use for your compressor, type M or type T etc. Once the cylinder has been lubricated with, transmission oil, thin lubrication oil, etc, and has set for a couple of day, put the tapered pipe thread with air quick on one end and put it in the spark plug hole. Now put 100 to 120 psi air into the cylinder and it may loosen up your piston/ring/cylinder. I have loosened up many engines after doing this trick.

The air quick disconnect and the taper threaded black pipe become a saved tool now.... for your tool box and compression tester type stuff. I did put teflon tape on the quick disconnect air fitting end.... it stays there. NOTHING is needed on the spark plug end. Little bit of air leaking is not going to hurt anything. NOTE: Will not work if cylinder is at the bottom of the stroke. GREAT TRICK.
 
Thank y'all for the replies.

I'll wait to purchase anything until I get the saw. From what my friend told me, the piston is seized at roughly TDC and did not loosen up when cooled down.

I would be ecstatic if the cylinder was salvageable. Even happier if the piston was also ok.

If the cylinder is good, I would definitely get an OEM piston. I just don't want to have to spend $400 on a piston and cylinder + $120 on the maxflow air system. That's $520+ on a saw I wasn't planning on having to fix. I don't know if I have that money to spare, even though I agree it's worth it for a $1500 saw.
If it's seized in the bore the piston is trash. It does you no good to put time into fixing something to put a roached out piston in it.
I've had times in my life when money was tight. I always saved such projects when I had some spare money or treated it like an investment, fixed it right and then sold it for profit.
 

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