planting acorns

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whitenack

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any tips for planting an acorn?

Is it worth doing? Can it be done easily?

what soil should i use? Any fertilizer needed?
 
Every seed is different in its probability for germination and whether the success rate is high or low. They can be frustratingly difficult or reletively easy. Perhaps it has something to do with the way you tilt your head. Either way, don't expect that every seed/acorn will germinate and produce an instant tree.

I suspect that your acorn is from on oak of some sort..........and if it is you will have to break its dormancy. Usually, and depending on your location, a seed/acorn must have a cold spell to initiate growth of the embryonic shoot. However, this may not be the case in the southern states............I'm not 100% sure seeing how I'm from north of the border! But if a cold spell is required, simply place your container of acorns in the fridge for a few weeks to a month......take them out and let them thaw. Usually the shoots will begin to break the shell before you notice and then are ready to plant.

I would recommend planting the seeds in similar soil that will ulimately be their final resting place . However if you have access to sterilized/pasturized soil, go ahead and use it. The aeration that you will receive from such a soil will aid in the successfulness of the new tree.

As for the ferilizer.................I say NO! If you get the tree to germinate............care for it with ample amounts of water. Refer to the following link where I included a section of my writeup on follow up care for young trees.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4454

Fertilizer will typically cause more damage than it is worth..........therefore, I recommend avoiding it until the tree has established itself!
 
Shane,
A cold period is not ready neccessary for acorns, at least the white oaks that I've dealt with. They drop the acorns early enough to start them off in your desired location or in pots for a TEMPORARY nursery.

But once you have them started in pots you will have to protect them from winter freezing. Find a clear spot in your garden and bury the pot to within one inch of the rim and mulch. Keep your fingers crossed that the mice don't find it for a food source.

In the spring plant out your trees before bud break. Good Luck.
 
do i just drop them in a pot and let them go? How far below the surface? What soil should i use? Should i do anything to prepare the acorn first?
 
Use the soil from your garden, don't worry about amendments. Place the acron in the soil to a depth of twice the size of the nut. Then in the fall before your first frost place the pot in the ground leaving one inch above the surface. Mulch for winter protection.
 
Jay Banks.........

In response to the cold period for acorns in general..........

When I took Plant Propagation at college, I tried my hand at English Oak and Ohio Buckeyes, both of which are in a hard seed coat.

The Ohio Buckeyes seemed to break dormancy much quicker and with a higher degree of success than the acorns. All that I had to do is place the seeds in ground, carry out a routine watering schedule, and let nature take its course. But the English Oak would not break dormancy through simple planting............they required the 2 to 4 week cold spell. And if this was implemented, the success rate was almost perfect.

In the northern zones, where the annual arrival of snow is a sure thing, I believe that the cold spell is natures way of ensuring that the embryonic shoot won't break through the soil surface just to be killed by frost. The acorns of the local Bur Oaks typically fall in the fall and are thrown around by the neighborhood lawn-mowers. If they were to begin growing immediately after coming in contact with the ground, the probability for future generations would be slim.

However, I still admit that my knowledge on the southern oaks germination requirements is reletively low, due to inexposure and by only having a few members of the Quercus genus available for my observations (Bur, English, and the odd Mongolian) ......but through discussions such as this one, I building my knowledge base.......

:D
 
Shane
Here in Virginia, I had a big White Oak, Quercus alba in the back yard. And the acorns dropped in the fall and if you didn't rake, pick or some how get them up they took root in a matter of weeks.

It was a pain to walk in the yard if you didn't get them up.
 
I have not had luck planting Oaks from nuts. They germinate, start to grow, and become squirrel food.

So I tried a metal cage, made from hardware cloth, worked until year three, a little rodent, I think maybe a chipmunk, dug under the cage and chewed it off at the ground. :angry:

I don't know how any of these trees survive in the forest.

I think it takes a few weeks to germinate an acorn. I like to put seeds between layers of wet paper towels, in a pan or bowl so I can check them every couple of days to see how they are progressing. It's also easy to see when it starts to dry out, don't let that happen.
 
stratification and scarification are not necessary for germination here in Texas. I do recommend soaking acorns in warm water until they swell. Then plant them in moist soil. It is important to change the water or aerate the water if you are soaking acorn for several hours. I have found 2-4 hours to be planty. Anything floating while soaking is not viable. Here it is best to do this when they are ripe on the tree in fall. This allows them to grow roots all winter so they can shoot up when things get warm.

Start with several - it is a numbers game. Even with a good germination rate, there are still bugs, squirrels, mice, etc. That is not to mention the other hazards to them after planting out. It is amazing that there are any trees in the forest.
 
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