Poorrman Tricks?

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vegaome

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Howdy Folks,

I'm always thinking about alternative (OK cheap) ways of doing things. Lately I've been thinking about the future, when I will have to put a new piston and rings in my poor ole Echo CS-510 (still cutting)

Anyhow I don't have the bucks to buy every specialty tool out there (like a ball hone). Do you all think this would work instead? Line the cylinder with a piece of sandpaper (400 grit?). Spray in some of that foam insulation in a can (fill up about 1/3 or so), center up a "L" or "T" shaped piece of rod (so you can chuck it in a drill) and presto a custom fit ball hone?

There maybe some finer details but that is the basic idea of it.

Anyone got some uh tricks?

v/r

Mike
 
It might work if your cylinder is round. Problem is that cylinders wear in an egg shape. If it is out of round by a few thousanths (sp?) of an inch, your foam-filled sandpaper will not work. That is why you use spring loaded stones.
If you don't want to buy a hone, just go to any repair shop and give them a few bucks to hone the jug for you. It will save you money in the long run, as you won't have to rebuild it twice.
 
From what I understand, you shouldn't hone the cylinder unless completely necessary. The piston fit is crucial. Not to mention, the expandable foam exudes much more outward pressure than you would think. Such a setup in a drill would likely take far too much material off. Besides, the stuff is like $8 a can, and a hone is not substantially more.
 
Dude, don't overthink this. Take it to your dealer and ask him to do it. My dealer charges like $4. If you're too cheap for that, you shouldn't own a saw. Whatever you do, don't do what you had in mind. That's more hassle than it'd ever be worth, and I can just about guarantee it wouldn't work like you think it would.
 
Now you guys are talkin. I was under the impression that the ball hones were around $30 a pop? I may need a new cylinder not sure but it don't look good through the exhaust port.

Good feedback, thanks folks

v/r

Mike
 
A dollar to a donut, your drill won't turn it. I have seen that
foam bust sheet rock out from the wall.
 
Well I am pretty cheap and if I could get it done for $4 I would. I don't think my dealer works on to many saws and I bought it used, not new from him. I guess I will just have to ask him.

v/r

Mike
 
Howdy Space,

I thought I read some where that the ball hone was the best thing to use? I never done it before. Just a poorman with a question. I guess it won't work.

v/r

Mike
 
pretty hard to run the cheapy cylinder hones up and down.

pretty easy to run a dingleball up and down.

Just pay teh dealer. Wash the cylinder when done with warm soap and water. let it dry.

assemble with LOTS of 2 stroke oil smeared all over teh cylinder and piston, and a teeny bit down the crankcase.
 
vegaome said:
Howdy Folks,

I'm always thinking about alternative (OK cheap) ways of doing things. Lately I've been thinking about the future, when I will have to put a new piston and rings in my poor ole Echo CS-510 (still cutting)

Anyhow I don't have the bucks to buy every specialty tool out there (like a ball hone). Do you all think this would work instead? Line the cylinder with a piece of sandpaper (400 grit?). Spray in some of that foam insulation in a can (fill up about 1/3 or so), center up a "L" or "T" shaped piece of rod (so you can chuck it in a drill) and presto a custom fit ball hone?

There maybe some finer details but that is the basic idea of it.

Anyone got some uh tricks?

v/r

Mike

Why hone it?

The main reason to hone 4-cycles is to hold oil in the cylinder walls to aid piston lube, and brake-in the piston rings.

On a 2-cycle engine, there is not the problem of having to keep oil on the cylinder walls, as it's everywhere anyways, and the rings will brake-in with a little time.

If you are from the school that thinks you need to do something, just rub a couple sheets of 220 together to make it a little less aggressive and brake the cylinder wall glaze a little, as a true cross hatch is not necessary IMO.

The hardness of the walls will seat the rings, a smooth wall would give you the best service. Just take your time braking it in.
 
Howdy Shoer Fast and Tzed250,

I dont have any fancy tools except for the tach I just bought but I though it would be worth it if I save one saw. Got bills and family that come first. I do heat with wood so getting good and equipment/tools is justified. Just cant do it all at once.

My little echo is still running and cutting some healthy stuff. I keep her clean and sharp, wish I had Thall's cuda machine.

I won't find out how bad she is until I tear her down. I cut wood through the fall and winter, when the sap starts rising I usually look for dead stuff I can get to. Buy spring I will probably stop cutting and maybe tear her down. Will have to see if the compression has dropped off first and do a visual to see if its getting worse.

My hearing and eyesight aint the greatest and its hard for me to tell by listening or looking through the exhaust opening but it dont look good. I have seen some of the pictures folks have posted here and it aint as bad as some of them from what I can tell. I would have to say my echo is a tough little girl. I do work her and she keeps going.

I might try to take a picture of it and post it and see what the conseses is.

I feel I got my moneys worth and its my first saw so I would like to rebuild her someday. Let me say I do appreciate all the help from everyone here. Best place on the internet. Thanks to all and have a good evening.

v/r

Mike
 
cheap

i have tore down an mini mac with lo compression replaced the rings and put in jug seal ran fine till the saw got under a dozer:bang:
 
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