Porting Farmertec 372xp BB

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That exhaust port is a snagged ring waiting to happen. Yes, you need to raise it. Yes, the transfers have to come up.

Thanks for your reply, that's what I was thinkin, but I was making sure that I understand what I'm doing and why.
I recently made a degree wheel and this is the first cylinder that I've reworked. Other than just widening ports and opening up the tracts.
 
Its not an issue cutting small diameter wood when the rpm's are up. It's when I stuff it with a long bar and aggressive chain. Possibly due to the richer tune running a longer bar. If it bogs at full throttle and I hold the trigger wfo, it floods and is slow to recover. Like when you get chips packed between the bar and chain.I sometimes have to shut the saw off and hold the trigger open while I restart it. It does it on both the 365 and 372. Not so much on the 7900 and 390 as they can take the extra fuel
Interesting, I haven’t experienced any issues like that. I’ve only 6 of them on though, 4-2171’s,2186,&2188. Eric actually did something to the carb on the one he ported for me but I can’t tell any difference in it. My biggest issue is the fine line between pig rich and lean. They are really touchy to get just right for me anyways
 
Also, mine always has at least a 28” with 8 tooth, full comp square bighty chain or 32 an 36 when needed. I do a lot of full bar length noodling with a 28 and 32
 
A bit off topic, but I've been working on a 385 that's been ported with 22 thou taken off the base.
Anyway, with a stock piston and 20 thou base gasket, it's a head banger.
Somewhat elementary, would a 40 thou gasket smarten it up?
The original jug came with a pop up slug.
The figures are as follows:
Intake:165 66.5 mm
Ex: 24 mm
Tr: 130 29 mm

Bye the way, it's just 20F here now, no snow on the ground, Blaze King blazing. 80f in my shack right now.
Been thinking about flinging doors and windows open , cracking a liquid refreshment and cranking up the tunes.
 
A bit off topic, but I've been working on a 385 that's been ported with 22 thou taken off the base.
Anyway, with a stock piston and 20 thou base gasket, it's a head banger.
Somewhat elementary, would a 40 thou gasket smarten it up?
The original jug came with a pop up slug.
The figures are as follows:
Intake:165 66.5 mm
Ex: 24 mm
Tr: 130 29 mm

Bye the way, it's just 20F here now, no snow on the ground, Blaze King blazing. 80f in my shack right now.
Been thinking about flinging doors and windows open , cracking a liquid refreshment and cranking up the tunes.
How much of a head banger? Lock up and won’t go any more or a light tap? How big was the old pop up. Best thing to do is figure your squish and go from there? You can put 0.040” gasket in and measure to see what you have
 
How much of a head banger? Lock up and won’t go any more or a light tap? How big was the old pop up. Best thing to do is figure your squish and go from there? You can put 0.040” gasket in and measure to see what you have
I didn't get aggressive enough to see if I could get it to rotate past tdc. I do have a ballpeen around here somewhere.
I'd do a squish if I had any solder handy.
As you mentioned, I'll try 40 thou+ bg.
Will keep you posted, as I think this saw is a potential ringer, or gernade.
 
I didn't get aggressive enough to see if I could get it to rotate past tdc. I do have a ballpeen around here somewhere.
I'd do a squish if I had any solder handy.
As you mentioned, I'll try 40 thou+ bg.
Will keep you posted, as I think this saw is a potential ringer.
I always told the wife when she turned 40 I was gonna trade her in on 2 20's. For whatever reason, that never happened.

So I guess you could use 2 .020" gaskets instead of finding a .040
 
Here's what I ended up with. The transfers had no bevel at all and were all at different heights. They were skewed similar to the exhaust. I corrected it the best that I could.

I had to take the intake to about 98* in order to add a slight arch.
20181207_105918.jpg
20181207_110002.jpg
20181207_110010.jpg

Transfers were taken to 123*
20181207_110020.jpg

I didn't spend a lot of time on making it pretty. I'm convinced that I paid huztl/farmertec to take advantage of me by purchasing this. Never again...
 
I did my 48mm Tecomec like this:
100 exhaust
117/122 staggered transfers prim/sec slightly champhered towards the intake.
77 intake

Squish just came out about .021

Runs out nice. Prefer it to stock open transfer cylinder (1997 model 2065) with a 20" bar.

Plan to try a Meteor 630 windowed piston with a little popup next. Figure the added heat of the popup should be mitigated by the lighter windowed piston. My intake might be excessive no worries have another cylinder if I have to start over.

Had originally wanted a 24" bar for this but have another saw setup pulling a 24" 8-pin so it isn't needed. Keeps it pretty nimble with the 20" for its size.
 
I did my 48mm Tecomec like this:
100 exhaust
117/122 staggered transfers prim/sec slightly champhered towards the intake.
77 intake

Squish just came out about .021

Runs out nice. Prefer it to stock open transfer cylinder (1997 model 2065) with a 20" bar.

Plan to try a Meteor 630 windowed piston with a little popup next. Figure the added heat of the popup should be mitigated by the lighter windowed piston. My intake might be excessive no worries have another cylinder if I have to start over.

Had originally wanted a 24" bar for this but have another saw setup pulling a 24" 8-pin so it isn't needed. Keeps it pretty nimble with the 20" for its size.

I've got an OEM 48mm and OEM 50mm. I'll do the exhaust on the 50 similar to the 52 mm.

My issue with this one is horrible squish. .037" without gasket. it's close to what a stock cylinder with gasket would be, so I thought I'd give it a try, and practice a little. Long term, this one will be coming off for the 50mm oem.
 
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