Post pictures of your woodpile/splitting area

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
These are from last year, I'll get more later.

Just picture a Bobcat, dumptruck and about 75 more cords in logs...
 
I like the pictures, but does wood really go for 200-225 up there? down here in Va Mixed Hardwood is 180 max
Free is ya surf Craigs list
 
These are from last year, I'll get more later.

Just picture a Bobcat, dumptruck and about 75 more cords in logs...

Damn, you split wood for $25/cord ?!!!

Here in N. California, oak can go for $250-$300/cord, softwoods $180-$225
Real cords only, we don't have no stinkin' face cords, ricks or any of those other fraudulent measures.
 
Wih the processor it's about the same work to leave it in rounds or split it actually.

I only deal with real 128 cu ft cords, but some sellers don't. I keep very busy because I am an honest seller, never short on wood, EVER! Most of my customer tell me I have the biggest a cords they have ever bought... They had been shorted for years and years by others.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wih the processor it's about the same work to leave it in rounds or split it actually.

I only deal with real 128 cu ft cords, but some sellers don't. I keep very busy because I am an honest seller, never short on wood, EVER! Most of my customer tell me I have the biggest a cords they have ever bought... They had been shorted for years and years by others.

Nice! Honesty is always the best policy. :clap:
Welcome to Arboristsite! :msp_thumbup:
 
Damn, you split wood for $25/cord ?!!!

Here in N. California, oak can go for $250-$300/cord, softwoods $180-$225
Real cords only, we don't have no stinkin' face cords, ricks or any of those other fraudulent measures.

Around here not many people know what a rick is
I will sell wood if I need to for extra money and I go by the going price around here, since max is $180, I'll let a full chord go for $150 or $50 a rick AND I will explain what a rick is for those who don't know. I'm like you thought I hate a face chord, I also hate people that sneak a few dozen pine pieces in too just case they can to unsuspecting folks that don't know.
 
Yes and long term is the best for business. I think some firewood "sellers" are looking at the short term "just made $50". They figure if they only deliver 3/4 of a cord that they have 1/4 cord left to make money on.

Repeat customers and word of mouth is 90% of my business. It's awesome to get an order from a friend, relative, etc of a customer because they saw or heard about what I had delivered. :msp_smile:

Of course I'm doing it for profit, but to hear things like that makes me a little warm inside.



Nice! Honesty is always the best policy. :clap:
Welcome to Arboristsite! :msp_thumbup:
 
Yes and long term is the best for business. I think some firewood "sellers" are looking at the short term "just made $50". They figure if they only deliver 3/4 of a cord that they have 1/4 cord left to make money on.

Repeat customers and word of mouth is 90% of my business. It's awesome to get an order from a friend, relative, etc of a customer because they saw or heard about what I had delivered. :msp_smile:

Of course I'm doing it for profit, but to hear things like that makes me a little warm inside.

Well said..... :msp_thumbup:
 
I'll get better photos in a few weeks when I setup with the processor. I have not picked it up yet, leaving early next week for Iowa to get it.

Yeah it will handle it fine as long as it's under about 22-24" thick. Over that and I have to cut with a saw and split on the Swisher.
(This is based on experience on another Blockbuster, older unit but about same size.)
I have an 18" bar on my saws and I've yet to find anything that I needed more bar.

The Blockbuster has a 20" bar, .404 0.80 gauge harvester chain.

Hey Valley Firewood ; welcome to A S. Looks like you have a nice operation there.

Will the Block buster handle the old growth knarly birch? Is it a bar saw or circular?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
english oak?

I just got 3 big truckloads of English or white oak and they are still green.I went to split them with my x27 yesterday and the axe head kicked back like I was hitting a tractor tire.Should I wait for natual cracking to appear or just use a neighbor's splitter for this batch. I only get the splitter for one day so I want to make sure that what I split is really knotty and can't be split by hand.The wood is very straight grained by the way.
 
I just got 3 big truckloads of English or white oak and they are still green.I went to split them with my x27 yesterday and the axe head kicked back like I was hitting a tractor tire.Should I wait for natual cracking to appear or just use a neighbor's splitter for this batch. I only get the splitter for one day so I want to make sure that what I split is really knotty and can't be split by hand.The wood is very straight grained by the way.

If you can afford to wait just a bit, say a few weeks, and the rounds are stacked up to get good sun and air, yes, they will split much easier once they are showing some checking.

Larger rounds I go around the outside and split off the slabs with the bark-thinly- then attack the center heartwood. Once the bark is off a round, they always split easier. the bark is a stout band that encircles the wood and helps keep it intact, like a band.

The other suggestion of at least ripping them in half is good as well. NHoodling is kinda fun, too. Lay the round sideways, cut right through at a slight angle. Give it full RPMs and lift it occassionally to clear the long noodles if it becomes a problem and starts to clog up under the clutch cover.

If you want to hand split them right now, you can cut a few kerfs across the top, deep enough to slide a wedge in there, then layon with a sledge hammer. I do that too with "rubber wood" if I don't wait to wait for natural checking. (shagbark hickory I now always do this, helps with eliminating the bugs)

Bust them into 1/4s or a little more that way (depends on size of rounds), then you can go back to using the fiskars effectively, and again, slab off the wood with the bark on it first. You can use that slabwood in the mornings to get the fire going good, and it also greatly speeds up the drying of both the slab wood and the heartwood. The wood directly under the bark is just slow to dry, so the thinner the better, IMO.

The Fiskars or splitting axe of choice is good for that chore, slabbing off the outside, as they are easier to aim and do precision whacking.

Of course, THREE truckloads, borrow a splitter..even at one day that is gonna be one LONG freeking day. (err, what size truck? regular pickup, that's not that bad...) Maybe just take the time to rough bust all the big rounds into quarters, then return splitter and go back to hand splitting at your leisure.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top