Poulan 2000 check valve question

[Johnny Rogers]

Hi everyone, I've seen some past threads here but they don't seem to answer the question I'm after. I've had this saw apart so many times it's not funny lol. Anyway, the saw oiled the bar/chain great before it was taken apart the first or second time. Some where a long the lines it just stopped oiling it all together.

I took it apart again for the 4th time now, separating the crank case to access the oil line from oil pump to the outlet in case for oiling bar/chain. The oil hose seemed to be shot, brittle, and cracking/tearing where it connects to inlets/outlet ports on oil pump. So I found another hose/fuel line/ whatever from old broken McCullough saw and replaced it. I used air compressor to blow through it (black oil pump with inlet/outlet, has little filter screen), and it blows through fine from what I can tell.

I blew through from the little hole in the back of the metering body? Little pin sized hole, that oil goes through then out other side with outlet with oil hose. Example below..

Oil blew out the end of the hose. So that should be fine. Next issue was the 1/2 bolt / check valve behind clutch drum, the gasket for it was worn out and no good. Too many places have it for decent prices, but slap a 7.00 or more shipping fee on it. Was wondering if I could just make one or use a rubber washer about same size? I'm sure gasket paper might be too thick for it.

Also, blew air through the screen end of the check valve bolt, and it blew some oil out of the little pin hole / hole up near the hex head of check value. I tried putting the air compressor blower tip in little hole, blowing outward through screen, put a little dish soap there, it did a little bubble in soap, but didn't keep bubbling air though. It didn't really bother the dish soap at all at screen end, when blowing air through little hole at head of check valve. I'm assuming the check valve is alright yet?

The question now, is, some where along the line, maybe the check valve bolt was on too tight, holes weren't lining up right with the little hole in case, which transfers the pressure or whatever to oil tank? Does it have to be in tight/snug, or loose and lining up just right? I forget how it was originally in there when the oiling of the bar / chain actually worked. Lol.

I know I need a new gasket for the check valve though, might have to do one homemade, or buy one. Or just buy new check valve.. But it still isn't oiling the bar/chain so, not sure which is culprit, and don't want to spend tons more money in parts if don't really need them.

P.S. Almost forgot, when blowing into the little hole in the threaded hole for check valve bolt, it was blowing or pushing oil out of the hole where it oils chain/bar. If I make one at home, what's the inside diameter of hole, 3/8"? And outside diameter I guess doesn't matter, as long as it's rubber and about 1/8" thick... The oiler part of it worked great before, just something isn't quite right now. But know for sure check valve gasket is shot.

 

[Johnny Rogers]

No one knows if the holes are supposed to be lined up for the check valve bolt? Blowing air through hole in case with air compressor nozzle, it seems to be working and pushing oil out the oiler hose for bar/chain. But trying some rubber washers or whatever from hardware store they kind of cover little hole in check valve bolt, up by the head of check valve bolt. I made markings on the hex head and case and tried lining them up, and it's not oiling out the hose for bar and chain area. Letting it run a little bit and turning saw sideways don't seem to be working either. I took out check valve from case, put a little piece of tissue in check valve hole and it pulled cord, the piece of tissue flew out of hole just pulling the pull rope. So it's fair to say the compression is good. My pap don't want to pay 25.00 to 35.00 for another check valve though, so I guess we're screwed / stuck.

 

[stubnail67]

the metal check valve has a rubber duck bill in it behind the screen it was probably pretty well gone .... blowing air is not always a great idea.... you need a new check valve most likely ... bad news is they are NLa....no longer available.....some where is a thread on how to rebuild it..... could not find it......try the poulan forum under the stickies......

 

[roosterhog]

Those saws get pressure from the crankcase to pressurize the oil tank. Take off the screw/nut behind the clutch. Use a Dremel tool to grind off the screen. Use a tooth pick, dental pick or whatever you have to dig out the old duckbill valve. Clean it out good. Install a new duckbill valve. Get a duckbill valve for a homelite XL from eBay. It will work.

Don't try to use the super thick Poulan oil. Won't work. Get the cheapest 10w-30 oil and roll with it.

 

[Johnny Rogers]

Thanks for the replies, I thought I seen some check valves on ebay though?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Poulan-chai...534?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a97e5fde

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-POULAN-...746?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d5aad429a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Poulan-...320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a48b30958

But yeah, no matter how much we try and line up the little holes in check valve bolt with the hole in threaded crank case, and run saw, it doesn't want to push oil out. The little screen on the end of check valve bolt, kinda looks pushed inward. Doesn't appear to be in place with solder, appears to be inside the check valve bolt itself. So just grind that out, and put new duck bill in it? I thought those had a ball in it? So after grinding out the screen, how do you keep other duck bill in it?

One of these duckbills?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-XL...432?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b516f660

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-OE...555?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415c156a33

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stens-610-3...223?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5672f7a6ff

Regarding bar oil, I forget the brand name of it, but it's some cheap / generic bar oil lol, not poulan brand. I'll try some you suggested. Again, thanks for your replies.

PS: This old thread? http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...micro-wont-oil-the-chain.183544/#post-3467153

Or:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/were-poulan-2000s-stingy-oilers.197750/#post-3584293

The check valve is Poulan part no. 530-069142. At one time an aftermarket version was available from Stens (Stens Part no. 610-377) but Stens no longer offers this part. Luckily I had saved all the old ones so I just rebuild them with a fresh duckbill. A couple years (or more??) ago on this site I described my procedure. Poulan duckbill valves should still be available since they are still being used in their fuel caps. Those check valves were not made to be repairable since the screen on the end pointing into the crankcase is clinched in place. I carefully file or dremel-grind away the crimp to free the screen undamaged. After removing the residue of the old duckbill, insert a new duckbill and reattach the screen with a bead of J-B Weld. I changed over to Homelite duckbills when I lost my source for Poulan duckbills. The Homelite duckbill (Homelite Part No. 69451 Stens Part No. 610-345) is shorter and slightly fatter than the Poulan duckbill, so I would drill a larger opening in the check valve body to accommodate the Homelite duckbill. The older check valves had a hex head of 1/2" size. The sprocket need not be removed to remove the check valve. A good (meaning thin) 1/2" combination wrench will go under the sprocket. A later version of the check valve had a slot for a compact right-angle flat screwdriver. If you don't have a suitable tool then the sprocket can be removed for easier access to the check valve. Even if you find a NOS check valve, the internal duckbill would be suspect because of age. Ethanol is a duckbill killer. Look at how quickly it ruins the old fuel lines, primer bulbs, carburetor diaphragms, etc.
Many of these old saws were tossed when they quit oiling. I have fixed many that were given to me or else sold to me for $5 or $10. I still have a dozen or so that I haven't got around to fixing.

 

[Justsaws]

The goal is to get the screen out while leaving enough metal to re-crimp it back in place after replacing the check valve. It does not have to look pretty just function. Put the valve in a vise with the screen facing up and pull the screen out with a heavy pick. You will see the groove the screen sits in, all you need to do is un-crimp enough to be able to put the screen back in place. I use a heavy short needle nose plier, if it is not going well I will chamfer the crimp will a drill bit just enough to allow it to bend easier.

Editing to add...

I do not remember which type of duckbill valve it takes, I would recommend pulling it apart and seeing if there is enough left to identify the type before ordering anything.

I was thinking that I was using the duckbills out of Poulan fuel caps but they could have been Homelites, I do not remember.

 

[stubnail67]

i used a razor blade and got a screen out with out much fuss....i cut dry wall for years though....

 

[Johnny Rogers]

Thanks guys for your replies and suggestions. I'll see what the pap says about doing and keeping your suggestions in mind, might have to try the easiest route and cheaper route lol.

 

[Modifiedmark]

So you know there is a check valve in that metering pump housing also that you probably destroyed with your air compressor.

Just sayin

 

[Johnny Rogers]

So you know there is a check valve in that metering pump housing also that you probably destroyed with your air compressor.

Just sayin

Ah okay, and dang, I hope we didn't though...

But I told pap about what everyone said and suggested, and he STILL believes the check valve is alright and is going to try and figure out what to put in there instead of original check valve gasket (cost 1.29 or w/e some where, and 7.00 shipping, which he hates to pay that high price for shipping) for spacing with rubber washer or whatever he bought at local hardware store, to make sure the hole in check valve lines up with hole in crankcase when the check valve is tightened up (not loose and lined up)... . Instead of just buying the proper parts and be done with it, he'll spend money and time on other crap that isn't for the saw and by time he spends money on other stuff, he could have just bought part.. I don't know what else to do and say, I'm the idiot, he's mr know all, the one that don't research and listen to people.

I'm assuming the holes technically don't need to line up just perfectly though right? Or.. Cause there's little concave in the top of check valve bolt where the hole is, so the pressure should be able to seep through the threads and into hole in crankcase.. or, is the right gasket the right size specifically, to be the "spacer" and have holes lined up?

 

[Johnny Rogers]

update, after trying check valve again it blew both ways, first time we tried it was at night with dim lighting and couldn't tell right, we just tried it today with sun out and it was coming out both ways. Pap just ordered gasket and check valve bolt together here:
Poulan chainsaw oil pump Check valve # 530069142 NOS NEW 1800 2000 2300
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161757421534?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT 25.99

 

[stubnail67]

update, after trying check valve again it blew both ways, first time we tried it was at night with dim lighting and couldn't tell right, we just tried it today with sun out and it was coming out both ways. Pap just ordered gasket and check valve bolt together here:
Poulan chainsaw oil pump Check valve # 530069142 NOS NEW 1800 2000 2300
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161757421534?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT 25.99

sad thing is that would cost about 4 bux not long ago..... i bet that gets you up and running....

 

[Johnny Rogers]

sad thing is that would cost about 4 bux not long ago..

Yeah, that's what I told pap after ordering it, they're probably originally a lot cheaper in price, but because they're so "rare" or whatever and the sellers know people need them, they jump up the price. lol

i bet that gets you up and running....

I'm sure too, because the oiler worked great before, but through past couple years of use, the check valve gasket was wearing out and getting worse in time. The oil started leaking around the check valve bolt/gasket etc. Then the oil wasn't coming out to the bar/chain area.

But it worked before, and we just replaced the little oil line there for metering body / pump. Piece of oil hose for metering body broke off at the outlet for bar/chain and the rest of line was so brittle, just figured to replace it all. I know there's good compression from the crankcase too, so just best to replace check valve and gasket.. *crossing fingers*

That's a great little saw, was our main saw to use, and it's nicer for trimming tree limbs off etc and using it for higher places, since it's light weight. The newer saws are ****. He bought a brand new Poulan Wildthing and it ran a little bit, but kept stopping. Started it, went to cut tree, it stopped. Took it to Poulan repair guy, and he took it apart, here the piston and cylinder was scored.

He took the Poulan Wildthing back to where he bought it, and they gave him another replacement saw, and same thing happened. He took the second saw back and they told him to keep saw and gave him some of his money back.
We ended up getting new piston / cylinder kit from lilredbarn website and rebuilt the saw and it's been running great ever since. I bet any money a lot of people got the Poulan Wildthings with scored pistons and cylinders. I seen a lot of angry customers online ******** about those, and leaving negative reviews.

Get a new saw, expect it to be great and working great, and not having scored pistons and cylinders out of the factory.. >_>

 

[Toyboy]

Don't throw the old check valve away. It's a good one to try to rebuild. You can get the duckbill valves from your husky dealer for about $1.60, anyway that's what they cost from my husky dealer here. The ebay ones are way over priced.

 

[Johnny Rogers]

Don't throw the old check valve away. It's a good one to try to rebuild. You can get the duckbill valves from your husky dealer for about $1.60, anyway that's what they cost from my husky dealer here. The ebay ones are way over priced.

Hey Toyboy, nah we're not throwing it away, we'll keep it around in case we have to rebuild it later down road. (Last resort thing, and never know what happens lol.) I'll have to check around locally about the duckbill too. We have a Poulan guy that worked on our stuff before, and have Stihl dealer here as well. We don't usually throw everything away though, we made our own clutch removal tool out of old chainsaw bar and two bolts in it apart just to get in the grooves for clutch and its been working good so far lol. saved us money there

 

[Toyboy]

Hey Toyboy, nah we're not throwing it away, we'll keep it around in case we have to rebuild it later down road. (Last resort thing, and never know what happens lol.) I'll have to check around locally about the duckbill too. We have a Poulan guy that worked on our stuff before, and have Stihl dealer here as well. We don't usually throw everything away though, we made our own clutch removal tool out of old chainsaw bar and two bolts in it apart just to get in the grooves for clutch and its been working good so far lol. saved us money there

If you log onto the site "chainsaw repair" they have pic's and a pretty detailed report on how to repair them

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I would have offered a good used one to try instead of spending $26 to make sure it was your problem.

 

[Johnny Rogers]

If you log onto the site "chainsaw repair" they have pic's and a pretty detailed report on how to repair them

Ah okay, thanks Toyboy, will have to check that out then.

I would have offered a good used one to try instead of spending $26 to make sure it was your problem.

Damn, should have waited around a little bit more for more replies then I guess. >_< Pap likes things cheap lol. Just was pressed for time, so much to cut this summer yet, so little time. Time is something that's not usually in our favor here lol

 

[Johnny Rogers]

Update, got "new" check valve today and tried it.. isn't working right either.. Message here I sent seller..

"Hey, we got that check valve, but it appears not to be working correctly. It allows air to flow through both ways of check valve, and some black tar or gasket maker came out of screen when blowing through little hole of check valve by the hex head. So put carb cleaner through to clean it up a bit. But even tightening it up and lining up the hole in check valve to hole in crank case, wasn't pushing oil out at the bar end. Running saw it creating smoke coming out of the exhaust / muffler. Not sure what's going on here, but something isn't quite right and we paid 26.00 for this.. .Is this refurbished or? Maybe someone made it and put duckbill back inside wrong, I dunno? Can you send free replacement or let me know what to do to fix it? "

 

[Toyboy]

Update, got "new" check valve today and tried it.. isn't working right either.. Message here I sent seller..

"Hey, we got that check valve, but it appears not to be working correctly. It allows air to flow through both ways of check valve, and some black tar or gasket maker came out of screen when blowing through little hole of check valve by the hex head. So put carb cleaner through to clean it up a bit. But even tightening it up and lining up the hole in check valve to hole in crank case, wasn't pushing oil out at the bar end. Running saw it creating smoke coming out of the exhaust / muffler. Not sure what's going on here, but something isn't quite right and we paid 26.00 for this.. .Is this refurbished or? Maybe someone made it and put duckbill back inside wrong, I dunno? Can you send free replacement or let me know what to do to fix it? "

It just sounds like you got a bad check valve. When the duckbill goes bad, you'll get that black gooey stuff. Ask me how I know...go to your husky dealer and buy a duckbill and fix your old one, not that hard. If you do decide to buy another one, you'll darn near have to get a NOS to eliminate short term failure.