Poulan 2000 check valve question

[Johnny Rogers]

It just sounds like you got a bad check valve. When the duckbill goes bad, you'll get that black gooey stuff. Ask me how I know...go to your husky dealer and buy a duckbill and fix your old one, not that hard. If you do decide to buy another one, you'll darn near have to get a NOS to eliminate short term failure.

Yeah, and he replied about that too, being fault of duckbill.

Please open a return case with eBay. I will refund your $ when we receive the item. These are NOS items. They are 40 years old , the symptoms you describe are correct for a bad valve. Duck Bill has melted from years of temperature change

I'll have to see what pap wants to really do though, because he expected a good working replacement, especially for the 26.00 he paid. of course we can get refund, but i doubt he really wants to replace duckbill and all those hassles. he isn't familiar with it at all, and wants something right and working so we get wood done this summer quickly before winter hits. i'll have to talk to him about it and update him on what seller said.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

also, if the duckbill wasn't screwed up before you shot the carb cleaner in it certainly was afterward. carb cleaner and duck bills aren't friendly with each other. just sayin

 

[Johnny Rogers]

also, if the duckbill wasn't screwed up before you shot the carb cleaner in it certainly was afterward. carb cleaner and duck bills aren't friendly with each other. just sayin

well, it was messed like that before carb cleaner.. we were blowing through little hole to check if air was passing through screen and the black plastic like goop was coming out screen. so it was defective before the carb cleaner. will keep it mind for next time though.. i guess that's why someone on here in older thread suggested soaking it in diesel over night.

 

[stubnail67]

carb cleaner will waste it or sure as well as compressed air.......

 

[Johnny Rogers]

for bad check valve we just got, he didn't want to hear it about taking out old duckbill and putting in replacement. its more money, and what we got should be working and he expects another new one and work or get refund. but i kept telling him, it better just to keep the one we have, we actually have a nice lip to work back off from screen, and just pop out bushing and old duckbill, go to poulan repair guy to get replacement duckbill (most likely he has some there) or other local stores, put it in, put in bushing, and fold back over the metal lip to keep screen in.

Because sure as ****, waiting to send back this new one takes days, to get refund back after the seller gets it back in mail. Then to try and gamble, buying another one for 35.00 from ebay.. etc. He don't want to gamble it, he don't really want to rebuild it, he just wants a good working one, and i told him they're basically obsolete nowadays.

 

[Johnny Rogers]

i managed to metal saw off the tip of old check valve, only (metal) sawed the very last thread/tip of end of it. the tip is there yet to jb weld back on then, screen's there fully, bushing, and black duckbill there. duckbill don't appear to be damaged though. there's little pin hole or w/e in fat end of it, and of course if you squeeze other (tinier) end it can "open" a hole there, once u stop squeezing the flange end it "closes". not sure why it wouldn't be working then, don't make sense. doesn't appear to be damaged at all.

the only thing i can think of, if it even makes a difference at all, is that the screen was pushed inward a little bit when it was together, like someone pushed screen inward toward duckbill with fingernail, Phillips screw driver tip, or w/e. i flattened out the screen again.

Or could maybe the hole in back of duckbill is too small, its not a fair big hole like in this picture http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTEwMFgxNTAw/z/1zMAAOSw7NNT2mHR/$_57.JPG Its more like a pen tip sized hole, that's not even dead center in back of duckbill. any other things maybe could make them bad, if duckbill seems to be "whole" / complete.. nothing melted off of it?

Maybe bad bushing, or w/e...

We even tried the new gasket / washer on this old check valve, still wasn't working to oil bar/chain etc. >_>

Our duckbill almost looks like this one, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-Se...287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2b55e327

but can't see the tiny pin/pen tip size hole in back of it though.

 

[edisto]

I was going to post some pics of my check-valve repair in a new thread...but then I found this thread. I'll add to it, but what I did isn't much different than what is on here.

I drilled through the screen and tossed it (I think that if there are particulates in my crankcase I have bigger problems than a plugged check valve):



To make sure I had enough metal left to peen over the new duckbill, I filed a little off of the brass retainer. The replacement duckbill I used (the green one) is a Homelite 560955001, if someone wants an alternate part#:



Rather than trust my fine motor skills for peening, I drilled some hexagonal stock with a steep chamfer, and another with a standard drill bit. I know...the holes are not centered. I thought that I would take a clever shortcut and chuck the bar in the drill press to make sure it was centered before I tightened the vice. I was so amazed that it didn't work, I did the same thing with the second one...



A couple of raps with the steeper angle, and a couple of raps with the shallow and I got a result that is much better than I think I would have done with a hammer:



I scribed an arrow on top of the bolt to make sure that I had the hole lined up, and she's oiling just fine now.

 

[Toyboy]

Looks great, we're always looking for a better way to repair/rebuild these check valves.