Poulan 2000 rebuild not starting cold

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k.chandler23

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I acquired a free Poulan 2000 that was torched. I decided to try a little porting and stuff with it. Split the cases and replaced the crank. Found a clean cylinder on ebay and bought a red barn piston kit. Bought all new gaskets. Rebuilt the carb and replaced the fuel line. Saw has 130 lbs of compression cold. The saw will crank and run perfect on a slight shot of mix into the throat of the carb and has no problem after but the saw will not start cold just choking and pulling. I don't believe it to be an impulse problem bc the saw runs so well after it fires. Any ideas?
 
I'm not sure that I've seen a fast idle option on this saw. I have been choking it and holding the throttle wide open myself. That's how I've always started these saws in the past.
 
Fast idle or full open is good for starting. For cold starting it's all about the function of the choke, impulse and fuel pump not important. The choke must be completely closed and the intake vacuum must be enough to pull down the main diaphragm, open the inlet valve and suck fuel up the line, through the fuel pump and into the carb. Did you do any porting and if so, is there a chance that it resulted in less vacuum at cranking speed? Since it runs fine, the height of the control lever must be about right but you could try raising it a bit to make it easier for the diaphragm to open it.
Also, you could try soldering shut the bleed hole in the choke disc.
 
I did do some mild porting and piston work on the saw. Only raised the exhaust a couple degrees. I will try the metering lever. This particular saw has a solid choke cover that fold over covering the throat.

Could the reed valve play a part in hard starting cold?
 
When my relative didn't know to lower the rakers and over revved a poulan 2000 for who knows how many hours it was hard to start and would not idle properly . The reed valve creased keeping it partially open .
Do you have a partially clogged fuel filter ?
 
Fuel filter has been replaced. Honestly the only the not new is the used crank and cylinder but the cylinder was clean. I have not done anything with the reed. I'm wondering if it's not sealing will it not have enough vacuum to pull the fuel with impulse.
 
I looked at the reed and it seems to be ok. Put the saw back together and now it's acting a little air leaky. Guess I'll pressure/ Vac test it now.
 
Reed valves that are not sealing properly can have an affect on starting, won't have any affect on the vacuum to draw fuel into the carb as they are supposed to open on vacuum producing upstroke of the piston anyway, but if they don't seal when the piston comes down it compromises the push of fuel up the transfers, fuel will pool in the crankcase and there will be spitting back from the carb. If you don't get spit back (wet filter?) when running, there is nothing wrong with the reeds. The slightest air leak anywhere in the fuel input path will reduce the ability of the choke to pull fuel into the carb. Can test this by removing the filter and pressurizing the fuel line, not likely a fault since the engine runs well, but easy to test. When the engine fails to fire under choke, you could remove the carb and check to see if the fuel chamber is full of fuel like it should be. If you change the control lever setting, be sure to pressure test the inlet as there is only a small range of adjustment until you introduce flooding problems.
Any restriction in the fuel supply path can also be the problem. Will the saw operate at full power with throttle full open and bar buried in wood? This is the situation that calls for max fuel delivery and if the saw will run this way for many cuts without becoming lean, there is no restriction.
 
I found a leak around the carb gasket with some carb cleaner and replaced the gasket. I also found that the choke cover may have not been completely sealing and I fixed that. Waiting for an opportunity to try it out. I will come back with the results. If this doesn't fix it I will be stumped.
 
Here is a link to the Walbro WT-20 carb service manual at the walbro site giving you the layout of the starting circuit. I think some of the first Poulan 2000's had a WT-3 carb

service manual for Walbro WT carbs from the walbreo.com site
https://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WTseries.pdfI've had same cold start issues with some of the Poulan saws that do not have a primer bulb.
I just prime them manually with mixed gas and mainly use them as loaner and tell the operator to do the same cold.
I've noticed some of the same model number of Poulans saws did a upgrade to a primer bulb for help with cold starts.
I would take the saw to a big green log with some tuning tools and see how it acts under load. Be careful and not run the saw leaned out. it can overheat fast. One symptom of overheating and running lean is it will act like it's bogging, but it's the piston swelling into the cylinder and scoring itself and this can happen fast when running lean under load, lift the saw out of the cut and piss rev few times and it picks up speed and back into the cut and same thing again, so keep a heads up for such. Most generally the H jet is turned in to far and it's running lean. (lean on gas and rich on air)

Keep us informed as the what you find.
 
Seems that fixing the choke solved the issue. Cranked on three pulls this morning after sitting all night. All it was was a thin washer on the wrong side of a spacer causing a slight gap. Thanks everyone for the input.
 
I have an 1800 and I have to pull it 3 times on choke, open the choke slightly then hold the throttle wide open and it'll start on that pull.
 
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