Poulan 3400 counter vibe

[fossil]

More muffler mod info

Here's more info on the muffler mods from the Poulan stickie in this post
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183629-2.htm

 

[redunshee]

Will the 3400 pull a 20" bar or is that to much and I've searched for muffler mod pictures and i am having trouble finding them

It will pull it okay but in a 20" hardwood log it'll work pretty hard.

 

[redunshee]

Ok so what I did.
I pulled the baffle out and cut out about half of it away from the top and bottom of it. Leaving the two post that the screws go through in place. I then used a file to debur it so no metal can get back into the engine. The part of the baffle that I cut away I faced towards the front of the muffler. The slit in the side is from a small cut off saw and then opened up with a screw driver. I left the spark arrestor in mine but that is a personal preference. This muffler exits out the back when stock and I welded up all those holes so that it can now only exit the side and front.

I do not believe the front cuts are 1 inch and more like a half inch. The one on the side is close to inch and a quarter.

That's what I do with the exception of the small slits in the front. To make the side opening easier to bend into shape I heat it up till its red with a torch, then use a screwdriver to shape it. Another helpful tip from the "mind of ModifiedMark".
Bob

 

[belgian]

Roland, that saw was introduced in 1978, why in the world would it need crank seals today?

As for the raidal play, it ends up being a triat of those needle brg saws. The crank end play is set by the depth of the crank brgs and I think they sometimes move around some. I know it sounds strange to some and especially by the way they do things today but a little end play in those dont hurt anything. They run and run forever that way.

In 1978 that CounterVibe saw was ahead of the pack.

Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ;
I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.

 

[Eccentric]

Pics from yesterday

44098 matches the # for a 20" SNR bar in the 4200 IPL. It's a Poulan branded Windsor bar.....but who knows when it made it onto my saw (with the S clip). It's been on there a while, as the rails and groove are worn enough that I swapped it out for a 20" D176 bar yesterday (after I shot these pics). I am going to swap mufflers on this saw. Two cuts made the clutch cover too hot to touch. No wonder the paint's discolored...

There's the SN/MN tag for my 306A.

Tillotson HS198A001 (or 196A001.....hard to read the # because of the 'double stamping') ungoverned carb. To my eye, it looks like it's been on that saw since the saw was new. Could have been swapped I guess. Does a 361 have the same inlet elbow......angled the same way? Also, does the 361 have the same idle screw arrangement as the 200/300 saws? The overspray 'shadow' on my carb matches the carb box, intake block, throttle link, and idle screw extension on my saw....

 

[fossil]

Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ;
I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.

I thought that would wreck the seals as well but the ones I replaced were original to a 1980 saw. The other units of the same vintage have the orignal seals so I guess it doesn't. In fact I think they last longer than the Stihl seals that seem to be replaced much sooner if the posts concerning bad seals are any indication.

Anyhow, by the number of well used 3400's still going strong that are around I would say that's sound testament to their durability.
They are simple, fairly powerful and don't seem to show up with a lot of broken plastic parts. Parts are much easier to get for these saws than most saws of that era.

 

[Modifiedmark]

44098 matches the # for a 20" SNR bar in the 4200 IPL. It's a Poulan branded Windsor bar.....but who knows when it made it onto my saw (with the S clip). It's been on there a while, as the rails and groove are worn enough that I swapped it out for a 20" D176 bar yesterday (after I shot these pics). I am going to swap mufflers on this saw. Two cuts made the clutch cover too hot to touch. No wonder the paint's discolored...


Tillotson HS198A001 (or 196A001.....hard to read the # because of the 'double stamping') ungoverned carb. To my eye, it looks like it's been on that saw since the saw was new. Could have been swapped I guess. Does a 361 have the same inlet elbow......angled the same way? Also, does the 361 have the same idle screw arrangement as the 200/300 saws? The overspray 'shadow' on my carb matches the carb box, intake block, throttle link, and idle screw extension on my saw....

Aaron thats a nice 306 but judging from the sawdust on that carb you better check that air filter, throttle boot and foam seal under the tank/handle to engine case for leaks.

As for the 361 carb questions, yes to all, they will bolt right in. I am with you that yours looks to be original and its not surprising as we all know that nothing is set in stone with these old saws. Maybe yours was a Californina Special.

 

[Magnumfloyd]

So I just replaced my fuel and vent line with a new duck bill saw has no air filter its in the mail the saw will only start if I don't choke it or set high idle is this normal or caused by no filte

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ;
I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.

Yeah it goes against the grain of thinking but like I said, just a nature of the beast. That saw was in production from 1979 to 1989 when the Poulan Pros showed up and several years after that as a Poulan Pro model and was basically unchanged except for the air filter upgrades so I think that track record alone would have to be looked at as outstanding.,

You work on lots of old saws and you know of alot of weird stuff on them when compared to todays equipment.

 

[Magnumfloyd]

So she cleaned up pretty good po scratched the side up in his tool box

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron thats a nice 306 but judging from the sawdust on that carb you better check that air filter, throttle boot and foam seal under the tank/handle to engine case for leaks.

As for the 361 carb questions, yes to all, they will bolt right in. I am with you that yours looks to be original and its not surprising as we all know that nothing is set in stone with these old saws. Maybe yours was a California Special.

I was thinking the same thing Mark. The AF and throttle boot look good, so I'm thinking it's the foam dust seal.

 

[3000 FPS]

So she cleaned up pretty good po scratched the side up in his tool box

If it was not the decal being messed up that would be a pretty good looking saw. Use a heat gun to warm up the decal to help get it off with out messing up the paint. Those decals show up on ebay every now and then. The paint looks really good on it. Nice job and nice saw.

 

[redunshee]

So I just replaced my fuel and vent line with a new duck bill saw has no air filter its in the mail the saw will only start if I don't choke it or set high idle is this normal or caused by no filte

If your saw is warm no choking is needed, in fact shouldn't be used. If its cold or hasn't been run for a few days you may have to choke it until it coughs, then proceed w/o the choke. You shouldn't have to set the idle high to start the saw. Push in the throttle lock on the top of the rear handle. Lack of filter shouldn't affect your starting procedure.

 

[Magnumfloyd]

NowI just have to get it fine tuned my buddy at the firehouse talks up his stock stihl 290 but I think this can hang stock or do I need a muffler mod

 

[Wagnerwerks]

NowI just have to get it fine tuned my buddy at the firehouse talks up his stock stihl 290 but I think this can hang stock or do I need a muffler mod

I'd go for the muff mod. Its a Big help in these saws.

Ps. Tighten up that recoil....

 

[Magnumfloyd]

I'd go for the muff mod. Its a Big help in these saws.

Ps. Tighten up that recoil....

I wish i knew how to tighten up that recoil i have how it hangs.

 

[redunshee]

I wish i knew how to tighten up that recoil i have how it hangs.

It's easy. Remove recoil assembly and top pulley cover. Pull out recoil about 1foot. Holding pulley ,pullin rope until you can hook the rope in the notch in the pulley. Then turn pulley with rope in notch 1or2turns clockwise. When the notch is even with the rcoil opening in the cover,let go of pulley and it will pull handle tight.
Bob

 

[Magnumfloyd]

It's easy. Remove recoil assembly and top pulley cover. Pull out recoil about 1foot. Holding pulley ,pullin rope until you can hook the rope in the notch in the pulley. Then turn pulley with rope in notch 1or2turns clockwise. When the notch is even with the rcoil opening in the cover,let go of pulley and it will pull handle tight.
Bob

Thanks ill try this later today.

 

[Magnumfloyd]

I know the muffler mod would help alot but i don't have a welder and don't braze i can solder. Any way just opening up the diffuser holes to 3/8 would help and maybe a hole out the side. I feel that stock it should cut right on past the 290 anyways i know it keeps up if not cuts faster then my 026

 

[redunshee]

I know the muffler mod would help alot but i don't have a welder and don't braze i can solder. Any way just opening up the diffuser holes to 3/8 would help and maybe a hole out the side. I feel that stock it should cut right on past the 290 anyways i know it keeps up if not cuts faster then my 026

Yes,you can open diffuser holes. As far as the side opening,cut a slot on the recoil side of the muffler about 1 to 2 in. long. Then take a torch and heat slit until its. Red. I then use a screwdriver to shape the opening