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SWE#Kipp

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Hello Milling people !!
I'm thinking of getting a Alaska mill or logosol, I will use them to cut spruce and pine, no hard wood !
diameter of the logs can be up to 40", do you think a 390xp will do the job ?
or should I aim for a 395xp ,,,,,
 
A 390 probably will get the job done but, as it's been said before, there is no replacement for displacement. You really should aim for the largest saw you can afford when it comes to milling.

Are you planning to just cut dimension lumber or slabs? If you're only milling lumber you can plan your cuts to keep the width down to a minimum and possibly do just fine with a smaller saw.

I looked this up...

390- 6.5hp
395- 7.1hp

Not that much difference between the two, really, but enough to see a difference in performance.
 
The best all round saw for power to weight ratio is the Stihl 660.

For a really good cheaper alternative the Makita/Dolmar 9010.

For the larger loggs the Alaskan mill.

Logosol M7 is only good for 500.00mm and lifting the max capacity logs on your own is difficult, its too high off of the ground to manage the big logs on unless you have a loader etc.

A 90cc saw is only really comfortable cutting at 24", for the bigger logs you definately need the bigger saw, and my choice is the Stihl 880.

The big Hisky is a bit dated in spec, where as the Stihl has been updated regulary, the big Stihl has the better cutch, which is covered/closed in.
 
The big Hisky is a bit dated in spec, where as the Stihl has been updated regulary, the big Stihl has the better cutch, which is covered/closed in

Yes but the big husky is a lot less expensive at least in the US.
 
A freind of mine has a saw shop where he specialises in forestry equipment, over the years he has come across two or three instances where the big Husky's have seized whilst they are milling really big logs.

The cause was, the exhaust was pointing in such a direction that the exhaust fumes were being injested back through the engine, causing mixture problems, the saw were set up correctly, mix, mixture etc.

On hearing this I did some experiments, I borowed a 3120 to see what I could find, and did the normal spark plug tests on both a 3120 and 088, you know the visual colour test on the spark plug thing, engine temp etc.

What I found was, the 3120 when laying on its side ran a tad leaner than it did upright,this was down to the carb design, an older spec,
quote: (now I'm not saying the 3120 is a bad saw) unquote:, it has stood the test of time very well, but the big Stihl definately has the edge when it comes to milling,
the big Stihl has had many more updates than any other big pro saw and really shines whilst milling, and the build quality is definately a lot better.

The technology surrounding the 3120 arks back to the seventies with saws like the 090, Husky has recently started to revamp their bigger saws, if you look at the new XP series, you will see that their clutches are now enclosed and its a pitty that husky have not yet updated their 3120, I feel it is being left behind by other saws, it is living on its name but for how long.

I'm not alone in my estimation, there are many more big Stihl's being used than the larger Huskies, this has got to mean something and the cheaper prices must reflect in one way or another.

My 2 penneth worth.
 
A freind of mine has a saw shop where he specialises in forestry equipment, over the years he has come across two or three instances where the big Husky's have seized whilst they are milling really big logs.

The cause was, the exhaust was pointing in such a direction that the exhaust fumes were being injested back through the engine, causing mixture problems, the saw were set up correctly, mix, mixture etc.

On hearing this I did some experiments, I borowed a 3120 to see what I could find, and did the normal spark plug tests on both a 3120 and 088, you know the visual colour test on the spark plug thing, engine temp etc.

What I found was, the 3120 when laying on its side ran a tad leaner than it did upright,this was down to the carb design, an older spec,
quote: (now I'm not saying the 3120 is a bad saw) unquote:, it has stood the test of time very well, but the big Stihl definately has the edge when it comes to milling,
the big Stihl has had many more updates than any other big pro saw and really shines whilst milling, and the build quality is definately a lot better.

The technology surrounding the 3120 arks back to the seventies with saws like the 090, Husky has recently started to revamp their bigger saws, if you look at the new XP series, you will see that their clutches are now enclosed and its a pitty that husky have not yet updated their 3120, I feel it is being left behind by other saws, it is living on its name but for how long.

I'm not alone in my estimation, there are many more big Stihl's being used than the larger Huskies, this has got to mean something and the cheaper prices must reflect in one way or another.

My 2 penneth worth.

Good info. Thanks.
 
The price difference is not a quality "marker" just a marketing thing ,,, If I want to buy a cheap saw I would buy a Stihl, And my question was about the 390 and 395 so the Stihl to match one of them should be the ms660 which might be the better saw, the biggest I have run is my 372xpg !!
So you think I should rule out the 390 ??
The reason I hoped it would work was the clutch ,,,,


Thanks again :)
 
On hearing this I did some experiments... What I found was, the 3120 when laying on its side ran a tad leaner than it did upright,this was down to the carb design, an older spec.

Interesting info rail... I can only assume that the design of the csm, be it a logosol or alaskan or whatever, more correctly, the exact way that saw is oriented and used in the csm, have a lot to do with that exhaust entering your intake. How windy the day is would also have an effect I suppose. I know that when my face is down in the saw as I'm pushing either my csm or the Ripsaw down the log, it's a much more pleasant experience on a windy day when all my exhaust is taken away than a hot still day when it sits there and you mill in a cloud of CO2. That's why I wear a respirator btw.
 
As far as I can tell, the 390 is a souped up 385. So for that reason, I would stay away from it until it is proven. I can say that Logosol puts out the 385 with the M7 with a three year warranty. I don't think Stihl will touch that for milling. Also, since I live in the USA and don't have a clue what 500.00mm is without looking it up, I can say I haven't run into anything yet the 385 and M7 couldn't handle. Some Oak as large as 60". Didn't put the log on the mill, put the mill on the log. Now if the 3120 has stood the test of time, why fix it if it ain't broke?
Rodney
 
Metric measurement 500.00mm

The measurement 500.00mm is half a meter or about 18 inches, the Logosol uses a pico chain and bar which cuts quite fast, my friends M7 came with an MS 660, its a good thing, and portable but, again you have to lift the logs onto the riser platform, and lifting a full length 18 inch log cannot be done by hand, thus taking away the freedom and overall portability of the rig.

An alaskan or similar type mill will win hands down over the M7 on width and portability every time, if your cutting wide stuff then the M7 is almost useless for the job, you would be better off buying an Alaskan and putting the rest towards a band mill, then you have the perfect combination for just about every eventuality.

Or, for the same money as an M7, there is the Ripsaw, although the ripsaw has quite a small cutting width, you can cut nearly as wide and twenty times faster than an M7.
 
A freind of mine has a saw shop where he specialises in forestry equipment, over the years he has come across two or three instances where the big Husky's have seized whilst they are milling really big logs.

The cause was, the exhaust was pointing in such a direction that the exhaust fumes were being injested back through the engine, causing mixture problems, the saw were set up correctly, mix, mixture etc.

On hearing this I did some experiments, I borowed a 3120 to see what I could find, and did the normal spark plug tests on both a 3120 and 088, you know the visual colour test on the spark plug thing, engine temp etc.

What I found was, the 3120 when laying on its side ran a tad leaner than it did upright,this was down to the carb design, an older spec,
quote: (now I'm not saying the 3120 is a bad saw) unquote:, it has stood the test of time very well, but the big Stihl definately has the edge when it comes to milling,
the big Stihl has had many more updates than any other big pro saw and really shines whilst milling, and the build quality is definately a lot better.

The technology surrounding the 3120 arks back to the seventies with saws like the 090, Husky has recently started to revamp their bigger saws, if you look at the new XP series, you will see that their clutches are now enclosed and its a pitty that husky have not yet updated their 3120, I feel it is being left behind by other saws, it is living on its name but for how long.

I'm not alone in my estimation, there are many more big Stihl's being used than the larger Huskies, this has got to mean something and the cheaper prices must reflect in one way or another.

My 2 penneth worth.

Interesting because around here I personally know 5 guys that use 3120 for milling. It has stood the test of time for a milling saw. I have not seen any 880 used for milling but have seen a couple of 084. Also its interesting that most of the race saws in that cube department are 3120.
 
The measurement 500.00mm is half a meter or about 18 inches, the Logosol uses a pico chain and bar which cuts quite fast, my friends M7 came with an MS 660, its a good thing, and portable but, again you have to lift the logs onto the riser platform, and lifting a full length 18 inch log cannot be done by hand, thus taking away the freedom and overall portability of the rig.

An alaskan or similar type mill will win hands down over the M7 on width and portability every time, if your cutting wide stuff then the M7 is almost useless for the job, you would be better off buying an Alaskan and putting the rest towards a band mill, then you have the perfect combination for just about every eventuality.

Or, for the same money as an M7, there is the Ripsaw, although the ripsaw has quite a small cutting width, you can cut nearly as wide and twenty times faster than an M7.
Well, if you say so. I guess I'd better quit doing those 36" -- 40" logs since everybody keeps telling me I can't do that with the M7.
Rodney
 
Rodney wrote:
Well, if you say so. I guess I'd better quit doing those 36" -- 40" logs since everybody keeps telling me I can't do that with the M7.
Rodney, unquote:

How do you stop the M7 from sinking into the ground when your working inside a wood on soft ground, without any lifting gear, a 36-40 inch log at say ten feet is quite a weighty piece of timber, how does she work on inclines.

I don't want to get into a lengthy debate about how things work, I'm mearly answering the guys question, with as much information as possible.

Both systems have their drawbacks, we know both can cut timber, its how they work which I'm trying to get across, pros and cons.

Back to the original question, a 390 or 395 XP, I would opt for the 395 XP over the 390, and as has been mentioned you cannot have enough CC's for milling, for cutting big stuff, my personal choice would be the Stihl 880, and for value for money and total freedom almost anywhere the Alaskan Mill.
 
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In my book of life, we have a small paragraph that says a lot. It goes like this.
"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance --- that principle is contempt prior to investigation."
Now, there is no way to compare the M7 with the Alaskan. That would be more like the TimberJig and the Alaskan.
If you go back and read my post again, you will see I said something about putting the M7 on the log, not putting the log on the mill. That would take care of the lifting and the soft ground deal. That would be the large logs. But just in case you did put a 18" or 20" log up there, they got a thing called "Parbuckin." Hell, I read on here where someone picks up logs with a jack and puts um on sawhorses to cut up.
As for as working on an incline goes, imo anyone who tries to cut lumber in the forest on much of an incline is not very smart to start with.
IMO, anybody cutting lumber in the forest is not rigged up right. It's way to hot in the summer and to much can go wrong. The very best reason I can think of to do this is to leave my mess for someone else to deal with.
One last thing. I wish I had the money, or a friend good enough to let me experiment with a 3120 and 088. What we talkin here, 3 grand or better?
Rodney
(By the way, if i do work in the woods like this, I use what is called a Big Mill)
 
One last thing. I wish I had the money, or a friend good enough to let me experiment with a 3120 and 088. What we talkin here, 3 grand or better?


If you are ever in the UK, come and visit us and we can show you some proper milling situations.
 
But just in case you did put a 18" or 20" log up there, they got a thing called "Parbuckin." Hell, I read on here where someone picks up logs with a jack and puts um on sawhorses to cut up.
I've posted several pics of how I use a floor jack to put logs up on custom sawhorses to get them off the ground for milling, easier on the knees and back... so if you're referring to me, note that I explained how I don't try that with anything over 20" dia log. I use the alaskan first to quarter or slab a 36" log, therefore usually, the cant I am getting off the ground onto those horses is something like an 8 ft 14x14 which is about 600 lbs. Then I slice it up with the little Ripsaw bandmill. An 8ft 20" oak log is about 1000lbs. Even with par buckling, that's a lot of weight to be winching up in incline.
As for as working on an incline goes, imo anyone who tries to cut lumber in the forest on much of an incline is not very smart to start with.
Well you are entitled to your opinion... but I mill an awful lot in the woods, and not always perfectly level ground. If thats where the 36" log is, then I trek into the woods with my alaskan and ripsaw to do the deed. As Rail says, both are truly portable and need very little setup. As for slope, with either of them, I find milling on a slight incline is preferable, as the mill goes down that log so much easier with gravity helping out.
One last thing. I wish I had the money, or a friend good enough to let me experiment with a 3120 and 088. What we talkin here, 3 grand or better?
When I bought my 395, I looked into the 3120, and found several in great shape for way less than $1000. Even had a guy offer me a new one for $1100.
 
One last thing. I wish I had the money, or a friend good enough to let me experiment with a 3120 and 088. What we talkin here, 3 grand or better?


If you are ever in the UK, come and visit us and we can show you some proper milling situations.
Thanks. Unlike a lot of people, I know I can still learn a few things. But when it comes to that part of the world, I was working over there back in 1978 and don't care to ever go back. Passport expired in 1987 and I will not renew it.
If we ain't got it in lower Arkansas, I really don't need it.
Rodney
 
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