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I like the FLOTUS better!!!
Pressure test fail help
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stihl86
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I've done that on a few occasions. A large enough leak, you cant find. I also made up a hose with a regulator inline so I can apply a steady 7 psi.
If you attempt this, just remove the coil. After you find the leak, flush crankcase out with fuel.
I've never had a problem afterwards
Sure is better than H-Beast or the last......... well I won't say what it was.
Hi Tom,
I previously thought you meant when you had the blanking plate in place, it was leaking when you tried to hold it in place with the carb.
Now I see its the inlet manifold area where it meets the carb.
if its leaking there, and you stuffed around with the inner metal spreader, and its now out of shape, I would assume that its still not correctly in shape and contributing to the leak.
Get another one, fit that, and I rekon you will be ok.
Just to confirm, the inlet manifold is new ?
I previously thought you meant when you had the blanking plate in place, it was leaking when you tried to hold it in place with the carb.
Now I see its the inlet manifold area where it meets the carb.
if its leaking there, and you stuffed around with the inner metal spreader, and its now out of shape, I would assume that its still not correctly in shape and contributing to the leak.
Get another one, fit that, and I rekon you will be ok.
Just to confirm, the inlet manifold is new ?
Hey mate, I’m not too sure what a blanking plate is?
When I put the rubber between the carb and manifold it leaks air. When I put the orange bung in the manifold it doesn’t.
How can one test the seal between the carb and manifold? As soon as you place something between the two you are no longer testing that seal because of course the rubber won’t be there when you’re using the saw?
Yes it’s new. I could have damaged it somehow? Although I have used the rope trick to install it every time.
I’ll try replacing the metal oring and the washer, torque it down to spec with a piece of rubber inbetween and add air. If this doesn’t work, i’ll Remove the manifold and check it.
If it was mine, I would not worry, your putting something between the carb, and its sealing face on the intake boot, and its leaking there.
you have confirmed the seals are ok, I would expect that once the carb is fitted correctly, that area will seal fine (with non messed around with parts in place) and enjoy your saw.
If its a new rubber intake boot, fit it up and torque it down, and run it, I would not bother fitting your new parts, then stuffing around with trying to make it seal with that rubber seal, just fit your new parts, fit carb, and run it.
you have confirmed the seals are ok, I would expect that once the carb is fitted correctly, that area will seal fine (with non messed around with parts in place) and enjoy your saw.
If its a new rubber intake boot, fit it up and torque it down, and run it, I would not bother fitting your new parts, then stuffing around with trying to make it seal with that rubber seal, just fit your new parts, fit carb, and run it.
Okk mate i’ll get the new parts and try starting. If there is a leak though as some one stated won’t it seize still? I guess if I have to turn the low speed screw out a lot it will show the leak as I need more fuel to compensate if the leak is still present and I can deal with it. Here is what Happened-
Initially I had both of these installed
It looked like this
However I use a ms 180 carb with the guts taken out as a means to hold the rubber seal in place to block off the manifold during pressure testing. However I inserted the ms 180 carb the wrong way, not realising that the opening of the carb is different sizes each end. What must of happened is the metal oring got squeezed out of shape because as photographed below, the metal oring actually half fits inside the carb opening.
Therefore after this I tried pressure testing with that inner oring removed (still leaked), then I had another look and noticed that the outer washer was also bent, so removed that and tried pressure testing again to no avail, just more leaking.
***UPDATE***
So I took absolutely no step for granted in finding the problem here. Even down to a tiny spec of plastic on the rubber manifold.
Turns out, somehow I bent the washer and inner ring. This meant that the manifold and the metal washer didn’t align. When I put the rubber between the carb and manifold to seal it, the rubber wasn’t thick enough to compensate of the bent washer and there was a tiny gap that wouldn’t seal.
Therefore I decided that I would try 3 layers of rubber to bridge the gap and seal the manifold and low and behold, it holds perfectly!
That’s a massive relief finding the cause. The new washer and oring are on order, and so long as they sit flush and align with the manifold I’ll have no problems!
Thank you to EVERYONE who messaged to help with solutions, it’s said often here, but thank you all. When building saws on your own, especially when you are very new like I am, it’s easy to get frustrated and it takes a relaxed personality on here to help out. One more page to my book and lesson learnt!
You’ll probably be thinking “what an idiot...” i’ll Just chalk it up to lesson learnt.
So I took absolutely no step for granted in finding the problem here. Even down to a tiny spec of plastic on the rubber manifold.
Turns out, somehow I bent the washer and inner ring. This meant that the manifold and the metal washer didn’t align. When I put the rubber between the carb and manifold to seal it, the rubber wasn’t thick enough to compensate of the bent washer and there was a tiny gap that wouldn’t seal.
Therefore I decided that I would try 3 layers of rubber to bridge the gap and seal the manifold and low and behold, it holds perfectly!
That’s a massive relief finding the cause. The new washer and oring are on order, and so long as they sit flush and align with the manifold I’ll have no problems!
Thank you to EVERYONE who messaged to help with solutions, it’s said often here, but thank you all. When building saws on your own, especially when you are very new like I am, it’s easy to get frustrated and it takes a relaxed personality on here to help out. One more page to my book and lesson learnt!
You’ll probably be thinking “what an idiot...” i’ll Just chalk it up to lesson learnt.
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Forget the layers of rubber, they will just leak. Take your junk carb, and use that. put a nipple down the throat, and fill the cavity with silicone and let it dry. Makes a great tool. Make one with no nipple too, for models with an external impulse nipple.
Well that is the reason right there, that carb will not seal up on an 026 intake, you need to use the WT series carb orientated correctly.
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It is speeled "Instine"!!
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Past pluperfect tense....
There is not one person in a thousand that even knows what this is about. Mike
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Keeps em' guessing.....
Good ole Bruce ,eh.
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I always have had a knack for stirring up the ****....
