Primer bulb bypass

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Mainemechanic

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Ive got a poulan with the stupid primer bulb that is slit all open, how to I properly bypass it? I plugged to prime line from the tank, do I need to plug the tit on the carb as well?

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Yes. Plug that air leak/nipple.
Solder shut, the hole in the choke plate and don't look back at the damned bubbles.
 
Easy way to plug it is to pull the line off the carb nipple, push a small ball bearing (lots of them in bicycles) up the line and then stick the line back on the nipple. If the primer bulb has been plumbed correctly, there is a check valve that will prevent air from being sucked back into the carb even if the bulb is split but it doesn't hurt to be safe by plugging the line.
 
Or you could just replace the primer bulb...........

I got a cheapee string trimmer even cheaper, free. It had a good engine but primer bulb on carb leaked and ran like ****. Blub kits bulbs were like $5 ...


So don't tell anyone I did this... but OEM was Chi-Com **** so I got an $8 Chi-Com carb. It runs pretty good now for a POS Chi-Com
 
Yes. Plug that air leak/nipple.
Solder shut, the hole in the choke plate and don't look back at the damned bubbles.
Yes I figured it out with a little experimenting, I hate those damn primers as well!
Easy way to plug it is to pull the line off the carb nipple, push a small ball bearing (lots of them in bicycles) up the line and then stick the line back on the nipple. If the primer bulb has been plumbed correctly, there is a check valve that will prevent air from being sucked back into the carb even if the bulb is split but it doesn't hurt to be safe by plugging the line.
Thats a clever way to plug everything all in one shot!
Or you could just replace the primer bulb...........
I hate them things, and there's no reason for it on a saw with a choke and that runs great, and the new one will get ripped open just like this one. Plus if you give it a little shake the fuel will build pressure in the tank very quickly and do the same thing.

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Plus if you give it a little shake the fuel will build pressure in the tank very quickly and do the same thing.
That's incorrect. The purpose of the purge bulb is to pull fuel through the lines and carb and pump it back to the tank, removing the air from the system. Building pressure in the tank cannot do that, as it will not push open a properly set inlet needle - thus the line is dead headed and the air cannot move through.

Some of my Poulans have larger carbs with no purge outlet, but I greatly prefer to have one. They also make great fuel line diagnostic tools - if you keep a small vacuum line splice in your tool box you can bypass the carb and test the lines easily.
 
That's incorrect. The purpose of the purge bulb is to pull fuel through the lines and carb and pump it back to the tank, removing the air from the system. Building pressure in the tank cannot do that, as it will not push open a properly set inlet needle - thus the line is dead headed and the air cannot move through.

Some of my Poulans have larger carbs with no purge outlet, but I greatly prefer to have one. They also make great fuel line diagnostic tools - if you keep a small vacuum line splice in your tool box you can bypass the carb and test the lines easily.
Yea your right there's no return so it just builds pressure in the line against the needle valve where the primer cycles the fuel back to the tank. But in the definition of the word prime as it refers to most mechanics and engines means that there is pressure in the line, such as a mechanical fuel pump driven diesel, if you run out of fuel you lose your prime, or your pressurized fuel charge ready to go through the injectors. (And it really really sucks! Especially when your plowing with a bucket loader in a Nor'easter and have no phone) So shaking the tank works more like a fuel injected engine where it just builds the pressure ready to fill the carb or filling it if it's empty.

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