What would be the minimum size rope or cable to pull over a slightly back leaner oak tree. Have 2 trees 25 inches and another one 28 inches and want to make sure I have a rope or cable big enough. I have a 3/4 inch rope but debating on getting a cable also.
Pulling cable or rope
- Thread starter Hendog
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Stihldobie
ArboristSite Lurker
There are a few variables left out. How tall are the trees and how high are you able to tie off. Also, it depends on what you have for a 3/4 rope and its condition. The shape and density of the canopy is also a consideration. Is it wide with offset heavy leader/branches or slender and thinly filled? Honestly, slight back leaners can often be done with just wedges, depending on your skill. I see no need for a cable if your rope is designed this purpose, such as Samson Stable Braid or similar. The higher you tie off, the better. Leverage is your friend. And make sure your pulling source is sufficient. Above all else, consider if you are capable and have the appropriate saw. Sometimes it’s better to bring in some experienced help. Again, I don’t know your skill level or equipment, so not meant to be insulting.
Stihldobie
ArboristSite Lurker
Really depends on how high you can tie into the tree, higher you go more leverage you get smaller line you can get away with.
That said, if the 3/4 rope you have now is hardware store nylon stuff... it might work, it might not, in the past I used similar stuff mostly with success, but it stretches a massive amount, enough to not catch tree in time if things do go sideways, and said hardware rope will fail.
You're better off with at least 1/2 rigging rope Samson Stable braid for instance 9/16 is better, its not cheap for a reason.
If you're going to use cable (wire rope) 3/8 is plenty strong, 1/2" is better, but cable is a total P.I.T.A to get up a tree, and make sure it has proper splices on the ends, even a farmer eye is better then a bunch of "cable clamps" Swedged factory eyes are best (though from legitimate tests a farmer/flemish eye is stronger then any other type of eye... they just come loose unless secured which is what a cable clamp is for, not for creating said eyes...)
There are a few variables left out. How tall are the trees and how high are you able to tie off. Also, it depends on what you have for a 3/4 rope and its condition. The shape and density of the canopy is also a consideration. Is it wide with offset heavy leader/branches or slender and thinly filled? Honestly, slight back leaners can often be done with just wedges, depending on your skill. I see no need for a cable if your rope is designed this purpose, such as Samson Stable Braid or similar. The higher you tie off, the better. Leverage is your friend. And make sure your pulling source is sufficient. Above all else, consider if you are capable and have the appropriate saw. Sometimes it’s better to bring in some experienced help. Again, I don’t know your skill level or equipment, so not meant to be insulting.
Really depends on how high you can tie into the tree, higher you go more leverage you get smaller line you can get away with.
That said, if the 3/4 rope you have now is hardware store nylon stuff... it might work, it might not, in the past I used similar stuff mostly with success, but it stretches a massive amount, enough to not catch tree in time if things do go sideways, and said hardware rope will fail.
You're better off with at least 1/2 rigging rope Samson Stable braid for instance 9/16 is better, its not cheap for a reason.
If you're going to use cable (wire rope) 3/8 is plenty strong, 1/2" is better, but cable is a total P.I.T.A to get up a tree, and make sure it has proper splices on the ends, even a farmer eye is better then a bunch of "cable clamps" Swedged factory eyes are best (though from legitimate tests a farmer/flemish eye is stronger then any other type of eye... they just come loose unless secured which is what a cable clamp is for, not for creating said eyes...)
Both trees are approximately 80 feet + and both only have limbs on the back side. Had cut the trees in from of them a few years back. Just bought the MS 500i with a 36 inch bar but haven't used it yet. Planning on switching to a 28 inch bar soon.
I'm going to see how high I can tie off and I do have someone that retired from the forest department that is going to help with the falling of the trees. He actually has taught me a lot about feeling years ago.
Really depends on how high you can tie into the tree, higher you go more leverage you get smaller line you can get away with.
That said, if the 3/4 rope you have now is hardware store nylon stuff... it might work, it might not, in the past I used similar stuff mostly with success, but it stretches a massive amount, enough to not catch tree in time if things do go sideways, and said hardware rope will fail.
You're better off with at least 1/2 rigging rope Samson Stable braid for instance 9/16 is better, its not cheap for a reason.
If you're going to use cable (wire rope) 3/8 is plenty strong, 1/2" is better, but cable is a total P.I.T.A to get up a tree, and make sure it has proper splices on the ends, even a farmer eye is better then a bunch of "cable clamps" Swedged factory eyes are best (though from legitimate tests a farmer/flemish eye is stronger then any other type of eye... they just come loose unless secured which is what a cable clamp is for, not for creating said eyes...)
Both trees are approximately 80 feet + and both only have limbs on the back side. Had cut the trees in from of them a few years back. Just bought the MS 500i with a 36 inch bar but haven't used it yet. Planning on switching to a 28 inch bar soon.
I'm going to see how high I can tie off and I do have someone that retired from the forest department that is going to help with the falling of the trees. He actually has taught me a lot about feeling years ago.
so they are limb heavy with the lean?
that case, bigger is better, 3/4 stable braid, or 1/2 cable and a whole lot of ass to pull em with. Your pickemup truck may work, but probably not, I do suggest a redirect so that whatever you do use to pull with the weight is more of a pull rather then a lift. tying directly to the tree, and pulling with a truck, the line has a tendency to lift the pull vehicle, reducing traction and then worst case if tree does go backwards (towards the lean) it will take said vehicle with it... way faster then you can imagine.
that case, bigger is better, 3/4 stable braid, or 1/2 cable and a whole lot of ass to pull em with. Your pickemup truck may work, but probably not, I do suggest a redirect so that whatever you do use to pull with the weight is more of a pull rather then a lift. tying directly to the tree, and pulling with a truck, the line has a tendency to lift the pull vehicle, reducing traction and then worst case if tree does go backwards (towards the lean) it will take said vehicle with it... way faster then you can imagine.
What kind of 3/4 rope? They are decidedly not all created equal. To be blunt, if you feel the need to ask the question on a forum like this, you shouldn't be pulling trees that are big enough/lean enough to require cable.
How did you determine that's how much lean you have? If you really have less than 2' of back lean on an otherwise straight tree, you don't need rope at all, let alone cable. If your numbers are correct (and that's a giant "if") they can be wedged over.
Did you forestry friend explain why he thought that you needed cable for a 65' tree that only leans 2'? Are there some heavy branches on the back side?
Sounds like he's got his methods. Not what I'd do, but to each his own. Let us know how it goes.
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What's up with that backcut... or cuts...?
Well, glad it went well.
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