Purchase Advice

[SteveH]

Yep, if this happens again, and it likely will, have your extra chain along, already sharpened. Put that chain on the saw, try again. If the saw is not running right after that, it ain't the chain. Many people who haven't used saws a lot don't realize how much difference the sharp chain makes. At minimum, a sharp chain compared with a dulled one is akin to adding 10 cc to the engine. Sharp chain=free extra performance, if you want to look at it that way.

If you switch out chains and the saw's performance is still poorer, then something else is going on.

 

[BigPasta]

Thanks for the sharpening input. I feel like a dork for not knowing it needed sharpening that often.

I put the new spare chain on and cut a couple logs and it seems to be working fine. But I noticed that the spare chain they gave me (Oregon 95VP) has an 80 drive link count instead of the 78 the saw is supposed to have. Is it bad to run the higher drive link count?

Another question - since my saw came with the H30 narrow kerf chain can I only run narrow kerf on the bar or can I run chisel/semi-chisel as long as it has the .050 chain gauge specified on the bar?

I was using the Bailey's chain reference chart to see what the equivalent Stihl chain would be and they don't list a Stihl narrow kerf. Does still not make a narrow kerf? I did some searching on here about chains and now I'm almost as confused about chains as I was about saws...


-Bp

 

[ECRUPPRECHT]

forget the money buy a stihl 361 and never look back it will never stop running best one saw plan hands down

 

[oldsaw]

Good grief, his Husky will be fine, he just needs a couple more chains to take with and a quick lesson on sharpening his own. As has been said, a sharp chain will make or break your attempt to cut wood.

Sharpening is part of the sawing experience. Once you know how to do it well, you look at the whole cutting process differently.

 

[Islander]

If you're delving onto the world of sharp chains, practice makes perfect.

I was trained as a machinist, and had quite a bit of experience hand filing machined parts, but even with that it took me some practice to make a sharp, dimensionally correct chain.

I usually sharpen my chains in the basement, and carry a spare or two into the woods. Time wise, I have more opportunities where I can disappear to the basement in the evenings, etc. Plus the beer's closer.

I like to use a Granberg File-in-Joint jig to get my dimensions right. I usually use that every 2-3 sharpenings now, just to "square up" the chain. In between, I just use a file and do it by eye.

The Granberg jig takes some getting used to, but follow the directions carefully and it works quite well. It's the simplest way to get the correct angles that I know of.

I keep an old bar in the basement, but you can just as easily clamp the whole saw in a vice, or just take the bar off.

Good quality files help too. Bailey's has some nice Pferd files I use. Always use a file handle...or someday you'll get a nasty poke in your palm.

Long smooth strokes of the file give the best, easiest results. Get a rhythm going...file, file, file, beer, file, file, file, beer...

The reward is the smile you'll get from a chain that just cuts like butta...

 

[BigPasta]

Does anyone know if using the chain with the 80 count drive link instead of the recommended 78 count is an issue? If i need to return it, it's going to add an extra two hours of driving to the store this weekend when I could be getting wood.

-Bp

 

[SteveH]

Well, I'll go out on a limb here and predict that if the chain is adjusting up right and everything looks normal, it should be fine. I don't know why a longer chain would work, but it sounds as if it is if you have it installed and can adjust it properly.

 

[mdavlee]

Just make sure it isn't at the end of adjustment where if it stretches you can't get it tight enough and it should be okay.

 

[ECRUPPRECHT]

are you sure its the same pitch chain depending on saw and manufacturer, some 20" saws will have more or less drive links than other such as some huskys and some stihls.

 

[RobertN]

Totally agree. As someone who is not a pro, but does cut some, a good guide makes a big difference for me. I THOUGHT I was doing well, till I got the Oregon clamp on guide. What a difference a really sharp chain makes!

If you're delving onto the world of sharp chains, practice makes perfect.

I like to use a Granberg File-in-Joint jig to get my dimensions right. I usually use that every 2-3 sharpenings now, just to "square up" the chain. In between, I just use a file and do it by eye.

 

[porsche965]

Islander,
Nice Post.
J.

 

[Islander]

Also don't forget to touch the top of the depth gauges (hump next to cutter) with a flat file.

If its too high, you'll notice it doesn't cut well. Too low, however, and it can be too aggressive and even dangerous to use. Another item that just takes a little practice, and you'll have it...

The Granberg jig does this too, but I usually use the Carlton File-O-Plate as a guide, but file by hand. Bailey's also has nice, smaller flat files for this.

I've been tempted to get one of those rechargeable pocket grinders, but I find some therapy in hand filing chains. Takes longer, but feels more like a time honored craft...

 

[BigPasta]

Thanks for all the great sharpening ideas! I like the ones that clamp on the bar and I like the idea of having a few beers and hand sharpening at home. The Oregon Sure Sharp looks like a cheaper version of the Granberg, but I will probably go with the Oregon because I need it for this weekend. I'll probably get a Husky file gauge if I can for out in the woods touch-ups.

I was wondering about the whole drive link count thing last night so I counted the drive links on the dull Husky chain that came with the saw and I counted 80. Then I looked at the bar and it had "80DL" printed on it. I thought that was weird so I checked my manual again and it only lists up 78.

The Husky website lists 78dl and 80dl for their H30 chain:

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/accessories/product-accessories/chains/saw-chain-h30/

but it only lists the 78dl chain for their 20" bar (also listed as "80DL"):

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landown...-accessories/bars/-325-pixel-small-bar-mount/

So I emailed Husky support. The first response wasn't any help, but their second response was this:

-------------------------
Brian,
I apologize for the confusion on information sent to you. The number of drive lengths is determined by a couple of factors.
1- Pitch of chain. In this case the pitch is .325"
2.- Length of bar. In this case 20"
3.- Radius of bar and width of bar.
This determines the number of links needed for the bar. In this case it is 80.
The owner's manual's reference to 78 links is not correct.
-------------------------

Interesting. So I don't know if I can get a Stihl chain for this bar, but I'll take a look to see what they have at the Stihl dealer.

Thank you everyone for your patience, help, and advice.


-Bp

 

[bruiser 1]

Thanks for all the great sharpening ideas! I like the ones that clamp on the bar and I like the idea of having a few beers and hand sharpening at home. The Oregon Sure Sharp looks like a cheaper version of the Granberg, but I will probably go with the Oregon because I need it for this weekend. I'll probably get a Husky file gauge if I can for out in the woods touch-ups.

I was wondering about the whole drive link count thing last night so I counted the drive links on the dull Husky chain that came with the saw and I counted 80. Then I looked at the bar and it had "80DL" printed on it. I thought that was weird so I checked my manual again and it only lists up 78.

The Husky website lists 78dl and 80dl for their H30 chain:

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/accessories/product-accessories/chains/saw-chain-h30/

but it only lists the 78dl chain for their 20" bar (also listed as "80DL"):

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landown...-accessories/bars/-325-pixel-small-bar-mount/

So I emailed Husky support. The first response wasn't any help, but their second response was this:

-------------------------
Brian,
I apologize for the confusion on information sent to you. The number of drive lengths is determined by a couple of factors.
1- Pitch of chain. In this case the pitch is .325"
2.- Length of bar. In this case 20"
3.- Radius of bar and width of bar.
This determines the number of links needed for the bar. In this case it is 80.
The owner's manual's reference to 78 links is not correct.
-------------------------

Interesting. So I don't know if I can get a Stihl chain for this bar, but I'll take a look to see what they have at the Stihl dealer.

Thank you everyone for your patience, help, and advice.


-Bp

Stihl dealer can make you any length you want 3/8" 0.050, .325. .404, 0.063 etc.