Purchase Advice

[BigPasta]

Hello,

With prices going up, I've decided to take on the task of getting my own firewood instead of paying someone else for it. I need about 4 cords a year and I usually get Lodgepole Pine.

Recently I've used,(or rather "forced",) a Poulon Wood Shark (14" bar, 33cc) to cut one cord so far of Ponderosa and Lodgepole Pine and I can tell I need a better/bigger saw.

Now the question is which saw. I've done hours of research on this site and I've been to all my local Stihl and Husqvarna dealers, but I'm still unsure of what to get.

Before researching, I bought this Sears Craftsman Professional for $279:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_07136218000P

but I haven't taken it out of the box yet. Sears also had a Poulon Pro 46cc with a 20" bar for $199.

One of the dealers I went to (Big R) has both Stihl and Husqvarna and I liked the Husqvarna 450 Anniversary edition the best ($369):

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/450-50th-anniversary-edition/

It doesn't have the tool-less chain tensioner like the regular 450. Is the tool-less tensioner good or bad? It seems new to the Husqvarna, but Stihl has had it for a while - is that correct? Either way, it seems cheap to me. The 450 Anniversary only has one nut for tightening the bar insted of two. That seemed odd to me.

I also liked the Husqvarna 445 ($309), but it only had an 18" bar whereas the 450 has a 20" bar on it. I'm not sure if I need a 20" bar though. I don't like the 455 Rancher because of the extra weight.

In the Stihls I was looking at the MS 250 ($319) and Ms 270 ($399). It seemed like the Husqvarnas were better balanced though and the Stihls are a little more expensive and heavier.

So it looks like with the Husky/stihls its the MS 250 vs Husky 445 or the MS 270 vs husky 450...

Now in doing more research I see that the Echo CS-400 is a consideration, but it does seem low on power in comparison to the Stihl and Husky. The 5 year warranty seems like a plus though compared to 2 for Stihl and Husky

Any help/direction/advice would be appreciated. I would like to cut some Oak also. But in total I would probably only be cutting 4 cords a year, maybe 5. I really wanted to stay at or under $300 for the saw, but realize I may need to spend a little more. (I still need chaps and steel-toe boots.)


Thanks,
-Bp

 

[woodgrenade]

Hello,
Any help/direction/advice would be appreciated. I would like to cut some Oak also. But in total I would probably only be cutting 4 cords a year, maybe 5. I really wanted to stay at or under $300 for the saw, but realize I may need to spend a little more. (I still need chaps and steel-toe boots.)

Thanks,
-Bp

How set are you on buying a new saw? There is at least one pro model stihl 026 that is on the trading post for a good price, not the prettiest thing but sounds like a runner none-the-less.

 

[porsche965]

Dealer support is priceless when you need it. Don't buy a saw without knowing where you will be taking it for service as you learn on this site to do much of everything yourself. These guys are great here. And very knowledgable. Don't be afraid to ask. And don't be afraid of buying more power than what you think you need, as you get into this great hobby, you will be tackeling bigger and bigger wood. It is cheaper to buy larger at first than trade later. Just my take. Goodluck and welcome!

 

[lone wolf]

what saw

if you were wise you would buy a pro saw stihl ms460 or husky 372 .they are proven strong reliable and you can get half your money back if you sell it 4 -5 years later smaller cheap saws are slow and a waste of money just my opinion been cuttin 35 years.hope it helps you.

 

[woodgrenade]

if you were wise you would buy a pro saw stihl ms460 or husky 372 .they are proven strong reliable and you can get half your money back if you sell it 4 -5 years later smaller cheap saws are slow and a waste of money just my opinion been cuttin 35 years.hope it helps you.

Both great saws, but he isn't going to find a new ms460 or 372xp for around $300 though.

 

[lone wolf]

price 7900

Both great saws, but he isn't going to find a new ms460 or 372xp for around $300 though.

how about a used one in good cond.

 

[porsche965]

Thinking about your choices, the above threads are correct, buy a Pro Saw. I just cut this afternoon, two saw plan is a 066 mag 92cc and a MS361 59cc. After running this 361 today, IF you can swing the investment, this would be a one saw plan IMO. Also the 3/8ths chain is so much nicer than the .325 chain on smaller saws. And don't forget to compare weight too. Look on Ebay and you will see that the price is strong on a 361 used. Buy value and the price will hold up well.

 

[woodgrenade]

how about a used one in good cond.

Definitely . I don't know how comfortable he is with buying a used saw though.

Going from a woodshark to a 70cc class saw might put a permanent smile on his face!

 

[bruiser 1]

Sounds like your in the Stihl Ms290-MS310 or Husky 455 Rancher area $350-$450.00 price range for both. Not Pro saws by any means but good saws none the less. Stihl and Husky did this for a reason to fill a niche for Homeowners like yourself.Plus you get support from both from dealers. Both MOD ok. Clip the limiter caps and open up the muff and you should be ok. Some on here hate the 290 but, I think for your amount of cords you can't go wrong. I had the 290 and thought it was a very good saw but knowing what I know now i would have bought the MS361 but, you'll pay $500.00 -$600, just my 2

 

[bruce6670]

If you could spend closer to $500. then you could buy a 346xp.

 

[rob066]

If you cant afford a 346xp. I would go for a Husqvarna 353. A 353 may be a smaller and lighter saw that fits your needs. A 353 is built on the same chassis as the 346 xp. The 353 is built on a pro chassis. The only difference is the cylinder.

 

[bruce6670]

how about a used one in good cond.

:agree2:

A used 60-70cc in good condition is a good idea.
You just have to be careful of what your buying.

 

[bruce6670]

If you cant afford a 346xp. I would go for a Husqvarna 353. A 353 may be a smaller and lighter saw that fits your needs. A 353 is built on the same chassis as the 346 xp. The 353 is built on a pro chassis. The only difference is the cylinder.

How much does a 353 cost?

 

[woodgrenade]

353 msrp/info

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/products/chainsaws/353g-e-tech-/

and 346

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/products/chainsaws/346-xp-/

 

[rob066]

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/products/chainsaws/353g-e-tech-/

and 346

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/products/chainsaws/346-xp-/

The 353g is the heated handle version. The standard 353 is non heated and cost less.

 

[StihlyinEly]

BP, you said lodgepole pine, so we're talking softwood, which makes things a bit easier on the saw in question than if it was oak and maple.

But how big will the trees be that you are felling? What diameter at the base? That will have some impact on the advice you'll get. If you're cutting soft trees with 16-inch diameters, you can go with a smaller, lighter saw than if you're cutting 30-inch wood.

You've already mentioned weight as a factor, so that leads me to believe you're not interested in going bigger than what you have in mind. That makes plenty of sense as long as the trees aren't too big. Even though you've gotten (and likely will continue to get) advice on upsizing your saw options, it's the size of the wood that dictates the size of the saw.

So . . . how big is your wood?

 

[woodgrenade]

The 353g is the heated handle version. The standard 353 is non heated and cost less.

I hear ya on the heated handles. That is the only info on the 353 that I could find on Husky's website.

 

[SteveH]

Before "mission creep" comes in and a lot of advice to up your budget to a thousand bucks, let me say you can do just fine with a $300 saw cutting what you proposed, the 4 cord a yr. I have a couple larger saws now but for about 15 yr. I used a 40 cc Echo [or maybe a bit larger, can't remember the model now] and didn't know or ever use anything else. I heated my cabin 100% with wood using that little saw and it did a great job. This was before I became more of a saw person. I think I paid a couple hundred bucks for the saw. It was not a "Pro" saw, either, though all mine are now. So we all have fun giving you advice, and it's good advice, but you can easily stick to that budget and get a real good saw. Even a used one if you want, something in the 60 cc range would be perfect [see, here I go like everyone else]. Something in the 50 to 60 cc range, used, can be had for under $300 if you search. I am partial to Stihl but I imagine the Huskie guys can't all be wrong, though being unfamiliar with them I can't suggest a model there. A Stihl 260 [or 026], 034, 036, etc. would be really really nice for you, or the comparable competing brand.

A neighbor just purchased a Craftsman saw, brand new, against my advice, and after seeing it, I would propose you return yours if it is still new and unused and put the $$$ toward something else. They don't look so hot for someone cutting 4 cords a year.

 

[Mac_Muz]

BP, you said lodgepole pine, so we're talking softwood, which makes things a bit easier on the saw in question than if it was oak and maple.

But how big will the trees be that you are felling? What diameter at the base? That will have some impact on the advice you'll get. If you're cutting soft trees with 16-inch diameters, you can go with a smaller, lighter saw than if you're cutting 30-inch wood.

You've already mentioned weight as a factor, so that leads me to believe you're not interested in going bigger than what you have in mind. That makes plenty of sense as long as the trees aren't too big. Even though you've gotten (and likely will continue to get) advice on upsizing your saw options, it's the size of the wood that dictates the size of the saw.

So . . . how big is your wood?

My questions exactly...Too much bar is a royal pain in small wood to me. I do with 16 inch bars in trees up to 30 inch as for fire wood. Recently I bought a use husky 359 with 18 inch bar and like that better, but I can cut a mess of fire wood with a 16 inch bar and a quick saw.

I still have my old husky a 242 xp, and to me for my needs these are a good match.

A main argument for a long bar will be ease of limbing, which I can see, but a lot of limbs are higher than waist high on hard woods, and is where my little 242 comes to play.

If these trees are say closer to 40 inches across then maybe a 20 inch bar is the way to go... That makes for more danger than is needed for smaller diameter trees IMO. I am not a logger or even an every day saw user, I just get my own needs met. I tend to put up 10 cords a year though, so it is workin'.

 

[porsche965]

I'm in 40" plus oak with a 20" bar on a 92cc saw. Guy stops by and says "Yeh, I got a 18" bar on a 40cc craftsman, it would make short work of that white oak! Here is the point, "It's not the length of the bar but the size of the saw and bar accordingly. Don't think that the bigger the bar the better the saw and work produced. Tractors are marketed like that, the bigger the engine the better the cut...not true. Buy a quality powerhead and always buy down in size the bar rather than too large of a bar. Just my opinion.