I've not been around saws as long as most of you and have never used a bar without a sprocket in the nose.What is the point of having a bar with no sprockett?
Question about round nose bars
- Thread starter Big Dan
- Start date
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Back in the day the older saws were more torquey and turned slower, there were very few Rollernose bars then. As saws picked up in RPM then bars with sprocket noses became more widely available. Even today hard nose bars are used in very dirty conditions using mostly chipper chain.
Pioneerguy600
Thanks Jerry,the reason I was asking is because I just bought the contents of a storage unit and most of it was chainsaw related items including about 200 bars,some of them round-nose
Big Dan, If you discover a supply of McCulloch bars in there and decide to put them up for sale, please let us know.
Mark
Mark
Saucy
ArboristSite Lurker
More speed captain!
So Im assuming the sprocket will speed up the chain on the saw (compared to a solid bar)
?
What would the other pros and cons be?
:stupid:
So Im assuming the sprocket will speed up the chain on the saw (compared to a solid bar)
?
What would the other pros and cons be?
:stupid:
The nose sprocket lifts the chain off the bar as it goes around the end, reducing drag and thus allowing the saw to put more HP into chain speed and cutting. While technically it is not "speeding the chain up", is certainly does not exert as much drag on the chain and so it does slow in down less.
Sprocket nose bars are prone to premature failure if they are exposed to a lot of dirt, grit, etc.
As Jerry mentioned, solid nose (AKA Hard Nose) bars have no moving parts so there is nothing to bind or break other than the rails themselves. They are particularly good for applications like cutting very dirty wood or flush cutting stumps, etc.
Mark
Sprocket nose bars are prone to premature failure if they are exposed to a lot of dirt, grit, etc.
As Jerry mentioned, solid nose (AKA Hard Nose) bars have no moving parts so there is nothing to bind or break other than the rails themselves. They are particularly good for applications like cutting very dirty wood or flush cutting stumps, etc.
Mark
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
You'll have to run the chain pretty loose on a solid-tip bar also.
Most of the 460 rescue saws have the duromatic, which is a solid-tip bar. Good for what they're using them for: cutting into roofs, walls, etc.
Most of the 460 rescue saws have the duromatic, which is a solid-tip bar. Good for what they're using them for: cutting into roofs, walls, etc.
Saucy
ArboristSite Lurker
460? Wow
That makes sense about the sproket...thanks for the explanation!
And that 460 is one hell of a saw!
(Watching it at work on youtube)
That makes sense about the sproket...thanks for the explanation!
And that 460 is one hell of a saw!
(Watching it at work on youtube)
sawbones
Addicted to ArboristSite
actually all the first chain saws had a roller or a sprocket. pre 1945 or so.
In the mid forty's saws became light enough for one man to pick and so the round nose came to be
Rollers did continue and are still sold today for long bars.
homelite 1950
In the fifty's they came out with a roller nose bar tip and then the sprocket nose afterwords.
This is how they repaired the roundnose bars. The BARSHOP machine can reshape or even shorten a bar as well as regroove the rails.
sunfish
Fish Head
The first 20 years I ran saws, I only ran hard nose bars and didn't want a sprocket. Was in north Florida and the sand would eat sprockets, bad on chains too. I also didn't run the chains real lose. The 346xp in 2001 was my first saw with a sprocket nose and believe it or not, it worked out fine 
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Yeah hard nosed bars are really good in dirty conditions. You need more oil though than a sprocket nosed bar and although they will "technically" create more drag it is very difficult to notice unless on long bars. I've run a 36" hard nose on my modded 390XP and it will pull it exactly the same as 36" Power Match Plus sprocket nose.
I've never run a chain on a hard nosed bar any looser than a sprocket, in fact generally slightly tighter. You'll also get a lot more heat and therefore chain stretch. You will also notice excessive wear on the bottom of the tie straps to start with but once the chain has "worn in" to suit the bar it seems to stop wearing as fast and settles down.
I've never run a chain on a hard nosed bar any looser than a sprocket, in fact generally slightly tighter. You'll also get a lot more heat and therefore chain stretch. You will also notice excessive wear on the bottom of the tie straps to start with but once the chain has "worn in" to suit the bar it seems to stop wearing as fast and settles down.
