Rain, rain go away - I'm bored...... time to learn how to sharpen a chain.

[Wife'nHubby]

Sheesh! Will these rainy days never end? I swear it's been raining since Saturday and now it is Wednesday. I'm chomping at the bit to get out there and cut/split/stack about 1/2 cord of oak that's been laying around since Spring; have about 1/2 cord of maple that's been sitting for awhile; have a tad of crab apple & pear to split; have another 1/2 cord of maple that is split that needs to be stacked. Humph! Rain - enough already!

In the meantime, I should get my chain sharpened. Being a newbie at this, I did purchase a second chain so I can "see" what a new, sharp chain looks like. I'll use that chain as a guide. I know there's a decently good video at the Stihl website for newbie chain sharpeners like me. Are there any other online vids or tips anyone would recommend?

Shari

 

[TreePointer]

Well, most of what I'd tell you is in that Stihl video. Here are a few more tips:

- Instead of clamping your bar directly in your vise, use blocks of wood on either side of your bar to prevent your vise from chewing on the bar paint.

- Make sure to secure your round file in your file guide with the guide's screw clamp to prevent the file from rotating in the guide during the filing stroke.

- Use more strokes on each tooth if your saw is curving in the cut. Example: 7 strokes instead of 4.

- New chains can be a little more difficult to get the file started in them than chains that have been hand sharpened at least once.

- Some files will dull more quickly than expected. You might only get 3-5 chain sharpenings per file if the chain is really hard.

- Stick with it. Hand filing gets easier the more you do it.

 

[Steve NW WI]

That frickin constant drizzle moved outta here last night, hope you wake up to nicer weather there too.

I like this guide, does the rakers while you file, and holds the file where it needs to be, you just need to hold the angle.

PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - CHAIN SHARP® CS-X - CHAIN SHARP CS-X

Several of the sponsors here sell em, and they're not too expensive, $30 or so. Drawbacks are that you need one for each size of chain (no biggie if you only run one saw/size), the raker files are custom to the tool (can't get em just anywhere), and they don't work on skip chain.

The biggest problem I had when learning to hand file was taking a lot more metal off one side of the chain than the other, just due to having a better "feel" going one direction. This will cause the saw to cut something like this ( if it gets bad enough. IIRC, hubby did machinist type work? Ask if he's got a caliper, and compare cutter lengths side to side after a few strokes (same strokes on each side). Minor differences (+-.020" or so) will only show up cutting bigger stuff, and likely won't even bind much. Bigger differences will make the bar bind as it follow a curved cut. I've gotten better with practice, but still occasionally need to even one out on the grinder.

 

[Nosmo]

C Clamps

For stability I use two C Clamps near the end of the bar when I sharpen my chain. I just set the saw on a wide top saw horse with the clamps on the bar and sharpen away.

Another good point about using these clamps is during a trip to and from the woods. I just clamp theses near the end of the bar and the saw is stable during the trip.

Nosmo

 

[Whitespider]

I don’t believe a “new” sharp chain will be a whole lot of help as a guide Shari. The cutters on a new chain, or even one that’s been sharpened on a chain grinder, will look different than those that have been round filed. It just ain’t possible for flat-sided grinding wheel and a round file to put the same exact contours on the cutters, and if you place your file in one of those “new” cutters I think you’ll see what I’m getting’ at.

Don’t be afraid… ya’ ain’t gonna’ kill the chain. In the absolute worst case you’d have to take the chain to whoever’s been sharpening it, and the grinder will straighten it right out. In my experience, cutters that that see the round file for the first time require a few extra strokes for the file to change the contours (like maybe 6-10), but after that just a few strokes will put the edge back (like 3-4) unless the cutters have been damaged. I like to file the rakers/depth gauges on the first round-filing because they are usually set higher than I like, after that every 5th-6th sharpening seems about right. And about every dozen or so filings I check cutter length with a caliper (a cheap plastic one works fine) before filing the rakers. Keep your file cleared of metal chips between cutters… a file card works best but even a swipe-off with a leather glove will be better than nothing… compressed air will work also.

Your first time results probably won’t be perfect (heck, nothing ever is) but don’t get discouraged… there’s a little bit of a learning curve to it. It ain’t quantum physics… if I (and these other idiots) can learn to file saw chains, I have full confidence that you can. Besides, you need to make a couple mistakes to learn anything, but once you sort’a “catch-on” the process is quite fast. Some common “first time” mistakes are;

• short stroking the file (try to use the full length of the file in one smooth stroke)
• filing some cutters more than others (use the same stroke count on all the cutters)
• ending up with different top plate angles between left & right cutters (learning curve)
• over filing (use just enough strokes to repair the cutting edge(s), no more).

How your chain cuts will give you clues as to where you may have not been perfect.
Such as;

• Small chips/slow cut (didn’t get the cutting edges sharp or rakers need filling)
• Chain/bar get hot (didn’t get the cutting edges sharp)
• Saw cuts at an angle or curve (difference between left and right cutters, could be top plate angle, cutter length, sharpness, etc.)
• Bar binds in the cut (same problem as above, but worse)
• Saw cuts rough, excessive vibration (again, difference in cutters, but not necessarily left to right).

Once you “get-it”, you’ll “love-it”. I find a correctly filed chain will be sharper and stay sharp longer than a chain sharpened on any grinder. Once you “get-it”, you can also experiment a bit with the angles and find what you like best… I sharpen my semi-chisel chains at a slightly different angle than my full-chisel chains because they’re used for different types of wood. It’s been over 20-years since any of my chains have seen a grinder. Even a “rocked” chain gets filled, I just pull the stool up to the bench and spend a bit of “alone time” with it.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Granberg

If you're just starting out I recommend the Granberg jig. They're around $30. They are aluminum and don't have a lot of flex, unlike the Oregon jig. Stihl makes a beautiful jig, (I have one of those) but they are pricey almost as much as an inexpensive grinder.

Anyway if you start filing with a jig you'll learn the proper angles automatically, making freehand filing less of a challenge. You can also play with the angles, and hook to see what works best for you. In the event you really rock a chain, the jig helps to get everything back to where it needs to be without guesswork. Don't forget to pick up a raker file as you'll need one of these every couple of sharpenings.

If you go freehand, I recommend and use by the way, one of the Stihl file holders. There are others out there too. I don't use it really as any kind of guide, but it does help me to hold the file without a lot of discomfort due to "Arthur Itis". If you plan on field sharpening, and not just swapping chains, a stump vise is a beautiful thing.

Start slow, take your time, ask questions, and you'll get the hang of it for sure.

Take Care

 

[WidowMaker]

Wear a glove on your stroking hang...

 

[NorthernOntario]

I found even the little jig you can get from Husqvarna is a huge help... can buy the kit at Lowes with the round files, flat file, file handle, and jig that sits on your bar. There is still some movement/play in the whole thing, but it makes for a pretty darn good chain sharpening.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Thanks for all the comeback for this newbie! Gloves on - check; file guide - check; vise or c-clamps - etc. I even picked up a Granberg (unknowingly) in a box of stuff at an auction.

I normally don't do a lot of sawing at any one time but now I've got a 4x6 trailer full of oak limbs to work on. I noticed recently my chips are getting a bit small and know that's an indication the chain needs sharpening. I haven't rocked the chain that I am aware of because my saw cutting is regulated to using a sawbuck for the small stuff or using the splitter as a vise for the bigger stuff (my back doesn't like to bend too much. ). Luckily I haven't hit hidden metal that I know of either.

Shari

 

[CJ1]

Granberg

If you're just starting out I recommend the Granberg jig. They're around $30. They are aluminum and don't have a lot of flex, unlike the Oregon jig. Stihl makes a beautiful jig, (I have one of those) but they are pricey almost as much as an inexpensive grinder.

Anyway if you start filing with a jig you'll learn the proper angles automatically, making freehand filing less of a challenge. You can also play with the angles, and hook to see what works best for you. In the event you really rock a chain, the jig helps to get everything back to where it needs to be without guesswork. Don't forget to pick up a raker file as you'll need one of these every couple of sharpenings.

If you go freehand, I recommend and use by the way, one of the Stihl file holders. There are others out there too. I don't use it really as any kind of guide, but it does help me to hold the file without a lot of discomfort due to "Arthur Itis". If you plan on field sharpening, and not just swapping chains, a stump vise is a beautiful thing.

Start slow, take your time, ask questions, and you'll get the hang of it for sure.

Take Care

I agree 100% with this. I also deep file the tooth so it only takes 1 pass freehand to ge the edge back. CJ

 

[slowp]

There is such a thing as ---Raingear. We really don't melt.

Learning to file a chain? Just do it. If the saw isn't spitting out chips, you'll know it wasn't done well. I have never used a file guide. I have used a vise a few times when one was available, and it makes it easier. I just learned a rule of thumb, one should have about 20% of the file showing above the tooth.
The saw goes on the tailgate, or ground and I file it.

I use the Chaser Rule for filing the rakers. I "hit" them a couple of times with a flat file on every third sharpening. It works well.

About rain. Out here, we have to learn to embrace the rain. Be one with the rain. The alternative is not good, unless one desires to be a couch potato.

When I lived in your fair state, I had moved there from the Oregon Coast. My Cheesehead co-workers were shocked to see that I went out and worked in the rain.

I did not like the Summertime humidity. That, is extremely hard to go out in for a native PNWer.

 

[1harlowr]

Files are cheap. Use a new one often. If you are using a worn out file, it makes it harder to get a good edge. I also can mess a chain up easier with an old file than a new file. Old file= pressing harder and changing the angle I wnat.
Using a new round file is almost as nice as using a freshly sharpened chain

 

[atlarge54]

Don't know how good your eyes are but I like to use a jewelers loupe to examine the cutting edge when I'm filing in the garage. You don't need to examine every cutter but it'll let you know when ALL the damage is removed. It's amazing what just a slight amount of damage can do to a chains ability to cut. I'd bet unless you're really an anal type you'll soon pitch any jigs and just hand file.

 

[slowp]

Oh, something else I just learned. You'll damage a round file by using the normal back and forth on a damaged chain tooth. The guy said to roll the file on the damaged part, get rid of the burring, and then file normally. It makes sense when you see it done. It is hard to explain on a computer.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Thanks Slowp for the comments. I've seen your pictures - do you folks ever have clear skies?

Also regarding your statement of 'rolling the file' - this is about the only question I have:

Someone above said to make sure your file is 'tight'. I thought the file was to be 'loose' so it can spiral. Haven't got my file right handy now to see what kind of file I have, but I also believe there was a thread about some files designed with a spiral in them.......

Shari

 

[Nosmo]

Loose or Tight ?

The file sets tight in a sharpening jig. Rolling a loose file is done by folks who are using the round file freehanded with no guide. On the push stroke the file can be twisted (rolled) between the thumb and index finger which helps remove the burrs.

I have tried several methods over the years and my favorite one is a simple Stihl guide. I like the thumbscrews which tighten the clamps onto the file. Another thing I do is to mark a heaverier line across the end of the guide in both directions at 30 degrees.

This heavier mark seems to make it easy to line up with the center line of the chain on the bar. I just line up the mark (keeping the guide level) and leaning over to the top of the depth guage and make usually two push strokes on each tooth.

Sometimes I may make three strokes and usually it takes much less than 5-minutes to go around the entire chain. I'm sure when you get the hang of it you will feel a sense of accomplishment and be adding another skill to those you already have.

Nosmo

 

[TreePointer]

Someone above said to make sure your file is 'tight'. I thought the file was to be 'loose' so it can spiral. Haven't got my file right handy now to see what kind of file I have, but I also believe there was a thread about some files designed with a spiral in them.......

If you look at a typical round file, you will see a spiral that runs down the file's long axis. If you don't hold the file tightly enough in your hand (or immobilized in the file guide) during the filing stroke, the chain's tooth will spin the file along that spiral. This reduces the amount of material that stroke removes from the tooth.

If filing freehand, you can use that spiral to your advantage by spinning it into the cutter. This is different than letting the tooth spin the file.

 

[TreePointer]

Another tip

Use a permanent marker to mark the tooth or tie strap where you started.

The color on the green or yellow tie strap of Stihl chains will eventually wear off, so you can't depend on that forever.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Use a permanent marker to mark the tooth or tie strap where you started.

The color on the green or yellow tie strap of Stihl chains will eventually wear off, so you can't depend on that forever.

Yup, I use a paint pen, mine is a Sanford Uni Paint brand, sourced from work. Lowes carries em, while Googling them, found a similar Elmer's paint marker that OfficeMax and maybe WalMart (said check availability) carry.

Probably you already know this, but I haven't seen it mentioned, use a push stroke only with the file, don't try to file pulling the file back toward you, you'll dull the file in a quick hurry this way.

 

[mimilkman1]

Whenever I have a new chain made I make sure that they put two cutters facing the same direction together, that way I can start either in front of or behind those two and I know when I'm done. They come that way out of the box for my 16" Stihl chains for my 290.

Kyle