rancher 55 problems

[trt3]

Well, I have a Husqvarna Rancher 55 that has ran flawlessly for many years now (bought it new). The last time I used it was December 2012. I didn't drain the gas or anything special. Just put it on the shelf. I do use the blue marine formula Stabil in all my gas so this was a mixture of that.
Now to get to the problem. I pulled it out to use it the other day and it started right up. BUT, it wouldn't run right . I would give it full throttle and it would stall out. If I kept pumping the trigger it would stay running. It wouldn't idle right, the idle was to fast and the chain kept turning. I used it for the quick job I needed it for and put it back on the shelf. Well now I need it for some major cutting and it wont even start.
So, where do I start? Is a carb rebuild in order or what?

 

[SawTroll]

Did you drain it of the old gas, and fill it up with fresh mix before you started it?

If not, that likely is your issue (stabil or not)!

 

[old 040]

check your fuel line first, if it's cracked it can act like what your describing...................

 

[SawTroll]

check your fuel line first, if it's cracked it can like what your describing...................

That too! :msp_smile:

 

[z71mike]

Carb screen.

 

[mountainlake]

I'd check the fuel line first too which might crack when sitting, carb screen would not plug up sitting and if partially clogged the saw would still idle ok. Steve

 

[z71mike]

I'd check the fuel line first too which might crack when sitting, carb screen would not plug up sitting and if partially clogged the saw would still idle ok. Steve

Of course the screen can't plug if sitting, but the first time he pulls the rip cord, any varnish that may have accumulated will land directly on the screen. As far as idle, if the screen is completely covered, which is possible, it could cause a lean condition........ fast idle.

 

[chainsawman2011]

Well, I have a Husqvarna Rancher 55 that has ran flawlessly for many years now (bought it new). The last time I used it was December 2012. I didn't drain the gas or anything special. Just put it on the shelf. I do use the blue marine formula Stabil in all my gas so this was a mixture of that.
Now to get to the problem. I pulled it out to use it the other day and it started right up. BUT, it wouldn't run right . I would give it full throttle and it would stall out. If I kept pumping the trigger it would stay running. It wouldn't idle right, the idle was to fast and the chain kept turning. I used it for the quick job I needed it for and put it back on the shelf. Well now I need it for some major cutting and it wont even start.
So, where do I start? Is a carb rebuild in order or what?

start with pull off muffler and check for piston scoring if not: dump out old fuel, replace fuel line and filter take off air filter make sure its clean
if that don't do it: clean and rebuild carb take off limiter caps on carb and adjust high to one full turn out and low to
one and a quarter: put it all back together put in the fresh fuel and start with chain brake off

 

[TK]

Likely time for an impulse an intake rubber replacement, along with the fuel line and filter.

 

[514mach1]

55 doesn't have an impulse line or rubber intake boot. It has an impulse grommet which goes in the cylinder and the plastic manifold the carb mounts to goes in it. It's good to replace that if you're that far into the saw, but I don't suspect it's the issue. If it were my 55, I'd put in a new fuel line and filter, do a basic carb rebuild (get a kit to put in and spray it off and out with carb cleaner), and be careful putting the two screws back in which hold the carb to the plastic manifold (they strip out easily). I put a little axle grease on the gasket between carb and manifold to hold it in position when putting the carb back on. If it still acts funky, I'd spray little shots of starting fluid while it's idling. Spray at spots around the carb (but not into the carb or air filter) and then behind the flywheel, then behind the clutch/sprocket. If it revs up, that's where the air leak is.

 

[bucknfeller]

55 doesn't have an impulse line or rubber intake boot. It has an impulse grommet which goes in the cylinder and the plastic manifold the carb mounts to goes in it. It's good to replace that if you're that far into the saw, but I don't suspect it's the issue. If it were my 55, I'd put in a new fuel line and filter, do a basic carb rebuild (get a kit to put in and spray it off and out with carb cleaner), and be careful putting the two screws back in which hold the carb to the plastic manifold (they strip out easily). I put a little axle grease on the gasket between carb and manifold to hold it in position when putting the carb back on. If it still acts funky, I'd spray little shots of starting fluid while it's idling. Spray at spots around the carb (but not into the carb or air filter) and then behind the flywheel, then behind the clutch/sprocket. If it revs up, that's where the air leak is.

They still have the little rubber intake boot that connects the plastic manifold to the cylinder. And they do fail.

Lots of times, the fuel line will crack right between the tank, and the airbox on those saws. Just replace it to be safe.

 

[514mach1]

True, they do have that little boot. I've never seen a split one, but I only mess with my own saws and I only have 2 51s and 1 55. So not exactly a large sample group.

 

[bucknfeller]

True, they do have that little boot. I've never seen a split one, but I only mess with my own saws and I only have 2 51s and 1 55. So not exactly a large sample group.

I've seen loads of them, but I've never actually seen one split. The just get dry, and hard, then the don't seal properly.

 

[mountainlake]

55 doesn't have an impulse line or rubber intake boot. It has an impulse grommet which goes in the cylinder and the plastic manifold the carb mounts to goes in it. It's good to replace that if you're that far into the saw, but I don't suspect it's the issue. If it were my 55, I'd put in a new fuel line and filter, do a basic carb rebuild (get a kit to put in and spray it off and out with carb cleaner), and be careful putting the two screws back in which hold the carb to the plastic manifold (they strip out easily). I put a little axle grease on the gasket between carb and manifold to hold it in position when putting the carb back on. If it still acts funky, I'd spray little shots of starting fluid while it's idling. Spray at spots around the carb (but not into the carb or air filter) and then behind the flywheel, then behind the clutch/sprocket. If it revs up, that's where the air leak is.

All really good advice except when you spray starting fluid at a air leak it will slow down or die as it gets way rich. . Steve

 

[TK]

Impulse is very prone to leaking. It's hardly more work after taking the carb off and very inexpensive. Rather foolish to overlook while a saw is apart IMO.

 

[trt3]

Well, I finally got around to looking at the saw today. Picked up a new filter and fuel line and BAM that was the problem! It runs like new for now. I only ran it for a few minutes but that is better then it ran for the last few minutes I ran it. It idles down to normal and feels like it has the usual power. I'll know more when I start cutting up the
Several cords laying on the ground.
Thanks for all the help.
Oh yea, there is one thing that was wrong with it. It has the air filter with screw and the nut went missing sometime unknowing to me. I noticed it in regular maintenance the last time I used it. I wired the filter in for a temporary fix. I didn't now exactly how the nut was held into the base so I just welded in a new nut. See
Pics. View attachment 303345View attachment 303345

 

[nspolar]

55 Rancher and 460 Carb Issues

I purchased a 55 in about in 2001.

I purchased a 460 about 3 years later. Mistake on that one.

Within about 3 years of actual use both would not run right, and gave me fits. I fought them for quite a while. Could get them to start (but hard) and initially run, but then they would start starving on fuel. Replaced gas hoses, filters and all that. Initially got carb kits, cleaned them out and so on, a couple of times.

No luck. I hated them so much I bought a Stihl 361. That one is a finicky starting ####ter too in my opinion, just takes too many pulls on average.

Anyway ... since I am an engineer who works on complex stuff I decided I needed to beat them Huskies back into submission. They both had Zama carbs, of very similar vintage.

The carb kits I initially received from the Husky dealer did not have come with new inlet valves and springs.

So I took them out and looked at them real closely. Been a while, as I recall both had rubber tips. They fit down in a recess, not much larger than the valve body.

I ordered new kits and inlet valves and springs, from Parts Tree. I noted the new inlet valves were of an upgraded number. As I recall no more rubber tipped tips, or at least they were different.

Installed them and it solved my problems. I concluded the initial rubber tipped ones swelled up enough, to block flow around the body of the valve, and starve the cylinder.

I gave the 55 to a friend. Really was not a bad little saw. I parked the 460.

I used the Stihl for a few years as my main saw. But I bought a new 346 XP new edition about two years ago. First saw in a long time I have really liked. Has enough power for what I cut and is much easier to handle and pack for me anyway, than the Stihl. On a bigger tree however I may crank up my Stihl.

Plan to buy a 555 or 560XP if I can find one in a few more years.

nspolar